How do you sharpen your knives!?!?!

I'm in the market to upgrade from my current set up. I've looked at edge pro, wicked edge, work sharp, and a few others. So my question to you guys is what do you use and what are your results? Pics are most welcome!

I just use lansky and have been using it since 2006. I spent a while on Cliff's forum to learn about sharpening. I'm not into it like them but can form a proper apex at least.

The big thing for me is I like using diamond stones. I don't the the maintenance that comes with traditional stones. And since I have so many large kin blades being able to sharpen those is a must. I'd how lansky and other sharpeners of that style do with longer blades.

I use Lansky and Spyderco triangle sharpmaker. Spyderco works with longer blades too.

I use and always have done it free hand. Diamond and Ceramic hones. Been doing this so long now I can tell If I have the angle correct just by the sound it makes and the way if feels as it slides across the hones.

I use DMT and Smith diamond hones in course and fine grit and a Spyderco medium ceramic hone.

Wicked Edge with the new Gen 3 Vise for re-profiling and fixing major issues. Spyderco Ceramic Bench stones (in Medium, Fine, and Extra Fine) for general sharpening/honing with the extra fine, and a extra fine ceramic round hone for touch-ups.

I like the diamond stones and Japanese water stones.

Worksharp KO Edition... and a strop... have not ever looked back...

Got any pics of the edges your getting Andy? I have a $25 cabelas gift card and that's one sharpener they carry

Some mate, I will dig them out. I am more about useful than pretty though...

There is a bit of a learning curve with the Workshop. So don't start out using it on your expensive Busse knives. Use it on your cheap Busse knives first. I like the Workshop a lot. It puts a very good edge on the blade and quite fast too.

I like using the KME to set a 20 degree edge then maintaining it with whatever else. It's an older pic but this was with the KME and some stropping.


Matching up the edge angle after setting the initial angle can be a pain in the butt so I just use the KME to set the initial edge and use a combination of a DMT C/F DuoSharp, medium grit Smith diamond stick, the Work Sharp Guided Sharpening System, the Work Sharp field sharpener, and a pile of strops. The DMT's and the guided Work Sharp are my favorites at home, the Work Sharp field sharpener is nice to drop in a pack. I have a bunch of strops that I've bought or made, my favorite at home is a big piece of 8-9 oz leather glued to a piece of MDF with Bark River black compound. I have a StropMan with black and green compound for dragging out in the woods. I need to get one of Flexx's field strops at some point, they look good.

I bought one of these from Knives Ship Free- http://www.knivesshipfree.com/knife...t-for-field-or-home-w-s3-dry-box-yellow/ but I haven't used it yet. Seems like it'd be good for knives and axes but it definitely takes up some room. It's obviously going to convex an edge but as long as stuff gets cut I don't worry too much about whether it's a V-edge of convexed.

I have one of the first series of WorkSharp electric sharpeners, I would definitely give the KO version a whirl.

I think it's worth mentioning that little Work Sharp field sharpener is a pretty fantastic bang for the buck.

I have heard, that the WorkSharp has some issues, sharpening the last bit of the edge, on choilless knives.
At least that
is what that guy from "Equip 2 Endure" said.
Is there some truth to that?

I had a chance to check the edge on Andy's DSSF I was wrapping in leather and it was really sharp!

I've been 'working' on my freehand convexing lately, my SARs endured and have decent edges now

In use..



Rasmus I can see how maybe that would be an issue, I own very very few knives without a choil so I have not yet crossed it. I would humbly suggest that once one was well versed in the WS it would be pretty simple to free hand that part of the blade, I do my whole Skeleton Key freehand as it does not work with the guides but once you have used the guides enough the principle is burnt into you. Many choiless blades are factory sharpened on a belt (including those from Busse) so I don't see it as a deal breaker at all. Most people will "need" a couple of methods for different styles and uses of blades but for ME (very subjective) the WS is the one.

.... that DSSF was a work in progress for a good long time, it is nicely on the sharp side now...

Those edges look great mate !!!

I got to see the work sharp in a store today. Seems like a good unit for what it is. I see it works well on the larger fixed blades! What do you use for the final finish/ polish? Is the fine belts in that set fine enough? Do you have to use work sharp KO belts or so other belts fit?

I use the belts that came with it, they do just fine for a working edge (you know, one that you will use for practical tasks like cutting and skinning ) but also bought a bunch (100x) micro mesh belts out here in the range 80x to about 1200 x (got these as I could get them locally much cheaper than the WS versions) then I finish on a stop with grey and green.

I am out working on reprofiling my drop point R6 just now.

Thanks for the info. I think I will have to try one. I just can't afford a WE sharpening system and the work sharp KO really can sharpen everything I have.

OK, NOW I know what the WS KO is.

Strop bat vs a strop belt? What will work best?

I use a bench strop but have not tried a belt.

Is a branch strop just mounted to a solid surface then?

No, just a "paddle strop" without a handle that I sit flat and work the blade on.

Simple enough!

Just got the KO WS myself. Love it. Had a couple of blades giving me a hard time the WS fixed them up quick. I finish with the green strop. I'm a big fan of the strop. Especially for maintaining an edge.

I brought my TRASH-1 in tonight and was looking at and noticed it has a fairly high edge on it (meaning the actual sharpened part is VERY close to or is 1/8 inch from the actual edge to where the coating actually starts).

To MY OLD School way of thinking the "edge" on this knife is way to thick, especially near the point.

This brought to mind different ways of thinning out the edge. ONE thought was going whole hog and sharpening it all the way up the blade to where the "Sabre Grind" starts, a bit over half way up the blade. An edge (actually way of sharpening) I THINK is what is referred to as a Scandi Edge. This, would serve a couple purposes.

1. It would remove the crinkle coat thereby reducing the friction caused by the coating making the steel much smoother to the cut.
2. It would lighten up the blade weight just a tad, probably not enough to be noticeable, but would reduce the weight by the tiniest bit.
3. It would thin out the blade where you could get a longer sort of SEMI flat grind.

IF you are like me, do you think this would improve the TRASH-1, an already tried and proven blade style or be totally unnecessary?

IF someone who truly knows what they are doing would like to try this I might possibly be willing to Donate a blade, but it would require some debating with myself.

I could try it myself, but all I have for sharpening devices are diamond and ceramic hones/rods and it would probably take me the rest of my life to remove that much steel! BUT at least that way one would be ensured the heat treat is not compromised in any way.

I LIKE the TRASH1/CGASH1. But I want to REALLY REALLY like it. I think it is a great blade profile for a multitude of tasks, but (Just MY opinion) it's way to thick for a blade this size!

Thank YOu, now it's time for a bite of cheese.

Jerry has a new offering coming out soon!

Tom,
Any hints?

This past Wednesday...the Mini-Muk. You have to check the Busse Bladeforums site.

I saw that one...zero interest. Didn't connect the timing of your post with the MM release.

If that would have been a muk with res-c....