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Re: saber grind or full height grind #251210 11/15/08 10:23 PM
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Rainwalker Offline
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I guess your right Bruce, I'm sure the opportunity and appropriate timing will arise someday... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" />


JYD#35 Dog Walkin in the Rain
Re: saber grind or full height grind [Re: Rainwalker] #251211 11/15/08 10:26 PM
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There's actually several Swamp Rats that I'd love to have someday, but the Ratweiler and Camp Tramp are at the top of that list. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />


JYD#35 Dog Walkin in the Rain
Re: saber grind or full height grind [Re: Rainwalker] #251212 11/16/08 04:24 AM
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I always kick myself in the butt when I think about may of the swamp rat knives. I should have purchased them when you could've purchased any knife at any time. I guess I took it for granted that it would always be that way.


JYD #78 Aloha hard!!
Re: saber grind or full height grind [Re: Toast] #251213 11/17/08 04:30 AM
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ronmann Offline
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so which one is what? the cg is saber grind? which knife would be heavier the cg or le?

Re: saber grind or full height grind [Re: ronmann] #251214 11/17/08 06:27 AM
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dl351 Offline
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Quote
so which one is what? the cg is saber grind? which knife would be heavier the cg or le?

You're correct. The CG has the saber grind and the LE has the full flat grind. The CG will be heavier than the LE because the grind angle of the CG is slightly more obtuse, and the CG blade has more full thickness than the LE. I hope that makes sense!

Re: saber grind or full height grind [Re: dl351] #251215 11/17/08 08:56 AM
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MRpink Offline
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The LE tapers (narrows) from the spine of the knife, whereas the CG tapers from somewhere between the spine and the edge, leaving more meat in the middle making it heavier even though they're both a quarter inch stock.


JYD #56 Scrap Yard Sword Club #00
Re: saber grind or full height grind [Re: MRpink] #251216 11/17/08 08:02 PM
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eatingmuchface Offline
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sharp, sometimes a shallower angle will split easier though.
sure their will be less of the blade touching the wood with the cg, but the coating will add a lot of friction, and sometimes wood will not split until the very end, in which case the steeper angle just makes it harder to drive through.

thats what I have found.
but every wood splits differently.

oh btw: how much more lateral strength could you need! 1/4" thick sr77 isn't breaking anytime soon!
<img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

Last edited by eatingmuchface; 11/17/08 08:07 PM.

JYD number 52.
Re: saber grind or full height grind [Re: eatingmuchface] #251217 11/17/08 10:26 PM
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EMF,

True. We have found that the RTAK batons surprisingly well due to what you just said. However, we have found that on the same wood, the Ratweiler will require fewer hits of similar force.

On lateral strength, It's not so much the blade itself, it's the tip. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> Thicker knives generally have thicker and stronger tips.


JYD #54 "Put your hands high, let your arms be the pillars that be holding up the sky..."
Re: saber grind or full height grind [Re: Sharp] #251218 11/17/08 10:47 PM
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yes, batoning is very complicated actually.
at least I've found.

thats true about the tip too.
never thought about that.


JYD number 52.
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