Preservative Removal

Dogs, several folks have commented about the “Gunk” that is coating the WS-1020. It is nothing more than some kind of Rust Preventative Dan puts on before shipping out to us. IT IS NOT RUST!

To remove it is simple. I just rubbed it with a cloth until it finally came off then ran the blade under HOT tap water until the blade was no longer sticky. Tom used mineral spirits and RN used CLP.

So now you know what it is (kinda sorta) and a couple simple ways to remove it. Now get out there and “GIT ‘ER DIRTY!

I plan on using denatured alcohol and then hitting it with CLP or Rem Oil.

The CLP worked very quickly and easily. I will need to clean that off later and then whipe it down with mineral oil.

Would have been nice to know earlier.

Dawn dish detergent worked well also.

Correct answer, request it be shipped without the preservative as I have done several times now.

Next best thing, use mineral spirits or acetone.

The spirits worked for me!

I used Carb cleaner worked great and fast

Denatured alcohol didn't work really well to start. Dish soap and hot water worked well, then Denatured and CLP to clean and add a coat of oil.

PLEASE DO NOT USE REMINGTON CLP!

A good friend of mine ruined one of his guns with that stuff. It literally melted the stock on a rifle he was cleaning and the grips of a pistol this stuff dripped onto. It melted stuff immediately--it wasn't that he got the CLP on iit, forgot about it for a few hours or days. It reacted with polymers as soon as it hit.

My friend was shocked and tried it on some other material--old gun parts and whatnot. The stuff was absolutely corrosive! It melted any and all synthetic materials it came in contact with, and did a number on exposed steel as well.

My buddy contacted Remington and the customer service rep (CSR) was not surprised in the least. The CSR told him that it happens now and again with the cans that get filled with the CLP that's near the bottom of the storage tanks. The CSR was perfectly pleasant, but that was it.

No apologies. No refund. No offer to replace the damaged materials. No nothing.

My friend has held onto that can of CLP so he can show people how nasty this stuff can be. It literally starts melting synthetics the moment it hits them. I've seen it in action and I've seen what it did to my friend's guns. I couldn't believe it, but the live demo convinced me.

Remington knows about the problem, but apparently they are ok with every 5000th or so customer destroying a gun or a stock. There's not enough customer outcry for them to change anything about their formula, storage procedures, bottling protocols, or quality control.

If you feel some sort of loyalty to Remington or for some other reason plan to continue buying this stuff, PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE TEST YOUR CAN OUT on something unimportant before spraying it on anything you plan to keep. I'd also suggest shaking it up and test it before use--even and especially on bottles you've previously tested--if it's been sitting for a while.

No clue why the bottom of the storage barrel stuff is so corrosive. Maybe some of the chemicals settle out and are more concentrated at the bottom. Maybe it reacts with the storage container and the stuff at the bottom has had the longest time to react. Maybe the chemicals in the formula continue reacting with each other and the longer it sits, the worse it gets.

Whatever the reason, I strongly recommend steering clear.

My 2¢...or whatever the going rate it's for my opinion these days...

I had a long(er) rant about Remington guns, but I'll throw that over in the Firearms Discussion forum...

There are plenty of other brands with similar products...I just don't want to see anyone ruin a perfectly good knife (or gun, watch, pair of parachute pants, etc.) because Remington can't be bothered to fix a known problem...

I've only used Break-Free CLP. I was blissfully unaware there were other brands of CLP. I do have Rem-oil that is probably 20 years old. It's not a cleaner but a thin oil that I use for bolt guns and light oil on knife blades. Once I finish this bottle up I have some better stuff waiting in the wings.

I used WD40 came right off.

I've been using Slip 2000 EWL for weapons (including knives when I can't find my mineral oil). Love the stuff.

Dogs

Sorry for any confusion.

SR-101 is susceptible to staining/rust. I personally us WD40 to clean and maintain my satin blades for what its worth

For U.S. based shipments I will change the protection to something else. International shipment will most likely remain the current spray on film...It takes longer and not all countries handle packages in the same way.

Dan

Thanks Dan.

Thanks Dan for a rust-free blade! I really did not mind the goop on the blade - I used 91% rubbing alcohol, and then hot water to clean it.

Simple Green takes it right off.