Who Change's The Edge On Their Busse-knives?

I just wondered how many people change the grind/edge on their Busse-Kin knives as soon as you get them ?
This could be anything from convexing it to just thinning it out !!!

I had the edge of my DMDC 'vexed, but the others have stayed factory.

I may take them in later, but I haven't decided.

My guy does a good job though.

Not yet...If I do, I'd get someone like HD to do it...

I have resharpened most of the knives I'm actually using... lets run down the list from memory...

*High Street (blue): Convexed by hand, stropped to hair popping
*High Street (orange): Used for a demo of a sharpening system at BLADE - sharpened to a flat edge grind, will probably convex it at some point
*Bird Dog - came to me already having been reprofiled to a nice convex
*Scrap Muk - Reprofiled to convex on belt sander
*Mud Puppy - haven't used it, haven't sharpened it
*Son of Dogfater - came reasonably sharp, but convexed it anyways
*NMSFNO - came dull as a butter knife, put a hair popping convex on it
*Regulator - came to me very sharp with a flat grind, but still reprofiled it
*Killa zilla - came with a full convex zero edge. thought about sharpening it but the idea terrifies me
*Mini uncle mojo - came with a passable edge, but convexed it by hand after trying to baton it through a hardened masonry nail
*SR Vex - came with a convex zero edge. Ocassionally stropped but kept the factory profile
*SR M9LE - came with a very sharp flat grind, haven't resharpened or stropped it at all



So, yeah... I tend to reprofile mine <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Can't sharpen a pencil here

Sharpen their Bussekins...? What!?!





























Okay, yeah, I might be a little guilty of this! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

i do it right when i get them

There is just something cool about the design that made.

Like a hamon! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Change the edge? Me? Maybe just a little.

I do. The factory v-grind is thick, bad for cutting and chopping.

I like the edges on your SYs tyger75. I'm working on setting up a belt sander right now with a buddy of mine. One day mine will also look like that.

+1 - I will refrain from my usual rant about my fanatical preferences for edges "optimized" for actually cutting stuff and being ideally suited for "Knife" uses vs. the weak arguement for obtuse brick chisel edges to accomodate those who "might" get huffy about rolling a "Quality" sharp edge after they bashed cinder blocks. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

But, I ONLY bother to take the time to sharpen and reprofile the knives I am CERTAIN I will use and keep. I won't bother if not sure if I am going to use it.

I know I will buck the trend here...

but...

there is no point in convexing an edge on a knife...

* in my humble opinion *

sorry boys...

the maintenance issues in the field, especially in a survival mode make it impractical...

its as worthless as "batoning" with a knife...

why would beat your knife into and through a piece of wood...?

*sigh*...

I'll probably regret typing that..

Doc

HERESY!!!!

Um...nah, not really <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />

Always, I like thin edges.



Makes an even bigger difference with choppers.





Nothing I use either blade on ever causes damage to the edge. Looking forward to thinning out my new S5 and putting it to work.


Doc: Why do you think it's pointless? A convex edge can easily be maintained in the field. Cut a strip of leather or a mousepad and bring some sandpaper, then lay them on something flat and sharpen. Or do what I do and bring a fine ceramic rod and use a microbevel for touch-ups in the field then reset the convex profile when the microbevel starts to get thick. Convex edges cut nicely. They seperate material well compared to a V edge. Regardless the most important thing to getting good geometry behind the edge is how thin you take it, not whether it's V or convex. I use a microbevel with either edge type though, so field touch ups are no issue.

It just is not a quick solution for me, at least not worth the effort....a convex edge will never be as sharp as a hollow ground thin blade (read razor)... and I know that convex is stronger...that's why is is also called an axe grind... but hauling a mouse pad, sandpaper..and all that other garbage into the woods or in your BOB is a waste of space and time...sandpaper gets wet and ruins....mousepads do to...leather rots...I am not implying you shouldn't do it...I am saying it is a waste of time...for me... I'll take my old shaving sharp normal double bevel, or flat and do as much work as anyone.... I guess I've cleaned as many hogs as most....a knife cuts....keep it sharp...however you like...and it'll cut...I just think all this convex edge talk for a knife is hoopla....sorry...my opinon... your mileage may vary...

Oh, and if you wanna chop with a thin knife...I recommend a machete, else use an axe....again... why would I want to beat myself to death with my knife trying to chop a log in half.... and potentially break and waste my blade...

right tool for the job...

and for the record.... that S5 is one sweet blade... the handle is a might small for might fat hands...but it will work... but man that choil and thumb grip is right on...fits me like a glove....

Doc

I find a convex edge as easy to maintain as any other. You don't have to use a strop, either. The Fallkniven survival knife uses a convex edge, as does the BRKT Bravo-1, both of which are very fine knives. My SARsqauatch came with one, too. Any conventional method will do fine to sharpen in the field. As for batoning, it is sometimes useful to get to dry wood for fire starting. And you can cut across the grain to chop down a small tree using a baton on the back of the blade. Of course and axe or chopper would be better. Just my experience and opinion. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Doc, I respect your opinion on the matter, and you are entitled to it, just as the others are entitled to their opinion on how they should use, as well as what they should do to, their knives.

"Let each man live his life to the fullest enjoyment he can enjoy, without criticism, or bias."

It's a motto I've come to live by, as it allows me to live my life the way I wish to, and still have friends from all walks of life. Life is too short to stress over such little things, so I let them slide. I apply this philosophy to pretty much everything; it makes life so much less stressful, and I'm all about less stress. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

I also sometimes see things people do to their knives that I personally wouldn't do, but those people like those modifications, so let them enjoy it.

I guess it comes down to a classic quote from Bambi:

"If you can't say something nice, don't say anything at all."

None of this is meant to come down on you by any means Doc; just some friendly ribbing. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />


BTW, Majorsdad, thanks for the compliment. I really enjoyed putting those edges on my knives. I've tested them frequently on different materials, and have yet to have any of them chip, roll, or become damaged in any way.

I practiced on several cheaper knives before I began to really try on my Bussekins, though; I strongly suggest the same. Even an old lawnmower blade lets you get the practice of how a piece of steel should be handled around a belt sander.

leather with compound glued to top or bottom of altoids fire/psk tin. takes up zero space.

plus if youre already hauling an axe around, why not a small piece of leather? <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

or if you wear a leather belt?


id like to see the day i break my busse knife chopping! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

not trying to down your opinions, just offering alternatives.

oh and ive only had my SOD reprofiled, my CGFBM only slightly hit down the shoulders...the m9 came shaving sharp no need to.

You already know that I appreciate your opinion, and we have agreed on a couple of occasions..although I am relatively new here...

I always appreciate another's viewpoint and and always read and try to understand another's perspective... I find the conversations herein informative and entertaining... sharing of ideas and philosophy is what a forum should be about... I have no qualms, complaints, or indignation of others ideals and opinions, and I hope mine are taken in the same light.. I threw out my opinion in the spirit of communication and conversation...I may not agree with some, but that is okay... and they might not agree with me... and that is okay...

We are who we are...
I may read and learn something from others, and maybe others can learn from me.. Lord knows I do not know it all...

Doc

I sharpen em' if they come dull and If I plan to use em. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Doc, the argument that a convex edge will not be as sharp as any other grind is basically a moot point IMO. look how many put crazy sharp convex edges on their knives. sure maybe not straight razor sharp... but that's impractical for field use anyway. Also, you may get just as much work done with a flat ground blade, BUT I do sometimes think that convex grind are a little more durable.
Either way, I voted yes because w/e the grind may be, I feel Busse and kin need some work to the edge.

My SOD ended up vexed thx to HD not too sure about my S5.

Wow... you confused the heck out of me with that... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

I do not want to offend anyone, and I wan't trying to say anything mean about anyone... I was simply trying to throw in my two cents...I do believe in "to each his own"...

I belong to a few forums, and have quit some forums...some places only want to hear from "the elite" forum guys... others always think new members know nothing because they are new to the forum... I lurked quite a while before I registered, and after that... posted a little at a time...This seems to be an open group and receptive to other opinions... certainly HD has been an inspiration as such... I can take an insult as well as the next guy...but by no means would I want to hurt someone else's feelings....That is why joining and participating in forums is always an arduous task for me...it just ain't worth the conflict...

Doc

I am still confused.

i think tyger just meant he thinks to each there own and dont hate on anyone for having their own opinon. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I'll drink to that...

Doc

<img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

im 1 step and 2 beers ahead! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I have to say that I agree with Doc at least partly. I have never put a convex edge on a knife and I have flat sharpened evry convex one I have resharpened and some time that takes a LONG time on a stone. I have read tutorials on convexing with mouse pads and stuff but I have sharpened on a "stone" so long that anything else feels foreign to me.

I have to say though that what has affected me the most is that none of the convex edges I have had have been able to be touched up on my Sharpmaker. Maybe some of you guys can tell me if that is just because the convex is too thick or just because its convex. I really like my Sharpmaker for touch ups. In the field while hunting though I take a fine DMT.

Well, I only have my S5's.. and can't speak of other Busse makes... but mine are both shaving sharp...good enough... I wasn't trying to imply that one shouldn't resharpen their own property... or to change anyone's mind about what they like....I just think the convex edge argument is so academic that in terms of real world use, you are right.. its moot, anything that is sharp will work....I just think it's kind of a fad or fashion....

Doc

There ya go.... I like that.... and whatever "edge" you like...go for it....

Doc

Thanks Doc! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> Although, I must admit to putting convex edges on some of them...Forgive me. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

That was pretty much what I was trying to say, and tease Doc a little.<img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" />

By no means was I saying that I didn't want to hear your opinion, Doc; I was just trying to point out that others have had experiences that differ from yours.

I wasn't trying to say that they were right and you were wrong, or that one way is better than the other, or that only the "senior" members of the forum should voice opinions. I have enjoyed learning a thing or two from everyone on this board, both senior and junior.

I think whatever way you find best, is then the best method for you, whatever it may apply to. Sharing your opinion is what a forum is all about.

I apologize if you felt that I was coming down on you; I was only attempting to do a little friendly joking with you, that's all, since you said in your post that ,"I'll probably regret typing that." If you haven't noticed in previous posts, I do like to joke a little.

<img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

I like them sharp, whether convex or flat bevel edge. But I just find that even when I use a stone, my edges are more convex than flat, so what the heck? It's easier for me to do a convex edge on a belt sander anyway, much smoother than using the platen. It isn't a huge difference anyway unless you have a full convex zero edge. That makes an uncanny difference in a chopper. But any edge that is sharp will do. The edges I have seen on the S5 pics appear to be pretty good. I have sharpened flat edges with a strop, and convex edges with a ceramic rod. It's just no big deal. Sharp is sharp. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Well said Tyger - BTW, how are you coming along on that knife you were making? <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

I really have no problem with leather.... I usually have a strop or belt...

I don't suggest that you will break a Busse... I suggest you could...and in a survival situation...why risk it?.... axe or small hatchet...or machete....will chop just fine..

I like that you aren't regrinding your edge on your M9... you know the old rule "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"....

I love differing opinions.... it makes me think and reconsider....if you play chess and only play people as good or worse than you, you aren't challenged and won't get much better... but if you play the better player....

Thanks for your input

Doc

Even when you're sitting in your living room peeling grapes, you prefer you convexed DF? <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

Cool...

I can take it.... just wanted to make sure I wasn't reading you wrong....

let me have it...I don't get offended.. pull no punches....

I just didn't want to get anyone hacked off ....that was the reason for the "I'll probably regret typing that."...

Thanks for your comments, opinions, and jokes/jests/puns/ whatever...

Doc

I eat the grape skins. They're high in antioxidants and I'm too lazy to peel them. I use my Bird Dog on the cantaloupe skins.

WOW!!!

Someone agrees with me even partially.... I think I might conCAVE in...

bwahahahahah

now I gotta go get another Whiskey....

Doc

I buggered up my first attempt at making the handles, and had to pick up some more material.

By the time I got it, though, I started getting bogged down in job related work. I'm in charge of 4 different projects right now, and was tasked with a fifth task yesterday afternoon. I've been coming home for the past month and a half, and pretty much passing out on the couch most of the time for a few hours. I'm really looking forward to getting some leave away from the base and just relaxing; finding the energy to finish my knife would be nice as well. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" />

Cool. Hope you get to finish it. I finished my first and plan to start my second this weekend. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> They are fun albeit time consuming. And, Doc won't like this <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />, but I put a full convex grind on my first one and it turned out pretty good.
It looks like a knife and it cuts stuff. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

yuk yuk yuk....

Can I try it out on that rabbit tyger posted?...

Thumper for dinner anyone??

Doc

I didn't think you were. I'm glad that you're happy with the edges from the factory... some SY edges are pretty good and don't need much (if any) work!

and you're entitled to think that. I think it's catching on more and more as people are realizing it's advantages.

Yes you can, and we shall name him Thumper-Slayer! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Bring me my Hassenpfeffer!!!!!

Doc

I'm taking my blades and dragging a Smith's carbide knife sharpener across them.
LMAO.

Field sharpening and whether you go into the field with a Convex edge or a V grind is just a matter of knowledge and skill....you don't need mouse pads or sand paper or diamond hones....or anything other than what you can find on the ground.

If you want to be prepared for field sharpening here is how I have done it and demonstrated it for a lot of years. Firstly...to save time in touching up an edge know the angle you sharpened it at...I have my blades either at 23 degrees V grind or Convexed. Then work with the knife as a tool to get the angle right.

If you have a 7 inch blade then use that as a measurement for the base stick on a fig 4 trap. It then needs to be lashed to the vertical stick you have hammered into the ground at a distance so that 7 inches...the blade length...sticks out from the centre of the plumb line stick...AND it needs to be at a distance from the tip of the plumb line stick so that when placing the angled stick to make the trap and lashing this together...the angle this stick makes to the centre plumb line stick is 23 degrees.

This is all about knowing "tangents"....the tangent for a 23 degree angle is 0.425...so what divided into 7 will give this figure...the answer 16.5...so if you have a 7 inch blade then measure off the total length and using the lanyard eye hole if need be add a paracord lanyard so that when pulled straight it gives a means of measuring off 16.5 inches.

Then you can use the edge of the blade near the choil to bite into the angular lashed stick on the Fig 4 so it is directly in line with the cetre of the stick and has the same angle of incidence to the vertical plumb line stick as the angular stick. i.e. 23 degrees.

Then look for two stones...ideally wet ones from a stream which have close to flat sides...rub them together in a flat on flat level till a "paste" emerges...once there is a paste use this and holding the stone vertically run it along the edge facing upwards on the blade a number of times...remove the knife and turn it round and place it again in the same cut in the stick to do the other side...

Use this method everytime you set up a Fig of 4 trap...that way you are doing two things with your time...you have a trap mechanism and a means of sharpening at the right angle. Field sharpening is all about getting consistancy to the original edge you created and topping it up...but you do need an aide to get the angle right and this method is the best one for me.

I have seen people try and free hand sharpen and restore an edge and they usually make it more blunt due to lack of consistancy and proper angle. This method works similar to a "Sharpmaker" and it is easy to hold the stone properly vertical rather than at an angle.

Use the lanyard as a plumb line to get the vertical stick properly vertical. Practise this method and it works well quite quickly. Those who think that this method will just give a flat V grind edge need to factor in the slight variations with each stroke...the edge does remain "convexed"...particularly when you are just "topping up" the edge each time you set a trap.

I have used this method for a lot of years now...it works well. If you have an 8 inch blade...the other distance is 18.5 inches...these are approximate figs but that is all you need.

This might be easier explained through photo's...but it should not be to hard to visualise if you think about it. 23 degrees is my preferred edge angle on a chopping/survival knife but you can choose another...the principal is the same.

For my two cents - I love the convex edge, find it ridiculously easy to maintain, and the supplies to do so are CHEAP.

I can sharpen a convex edge with nothing more complicated than a piece of sandpaper from any generic hardware store. I've even played with using my LEG as a backing for it. You don't have to worry about maintaining a careful angle, and can be really sloppy with it. You can strop it on a pair of jeans.

I also find it to hold an edge longer and be more durable than a similarly-performing flat ground edge.




And on a slightly unrelated note, I don't get using "survival situations" to argue every merit of a knife. Things like batoning and chopping might not protect your knife, but I don't buy knives that cost hundreds of dollars and hold a lifetime warranty to baby them. I might use them differently if I ever ended up in a true survival situation, but I'm about as likely to be attacked by zombies as I am to end up in a TRUE survival situation, so I see no problem with using my knives in a way that saves me energy and makes them perform the way I want them to.

LOL! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Just be careful, some of those rabbit are mighty vicious.

<img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

Ummm...cause you can? <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />



A knife is more versatile that an axe. It's more compact & easy to pack.

but those could break just the same...i guess id rather have a saw than an axe or small hatchet. way less energy used.

HELLYEAH!!! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif" alt="" />

as my pappy says: 6 to one half dozen to the other! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Can't argue with that...but then again... for me..its not an answer


for chopping ?...not in my humble opinion...

but what do I know?

Doc

No, all around general use. Easier to skin an animal with, make traps, whittle, etc. For only chopping though, where weight is not an issue, an axe is hard to beat. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

I look at it this way - I don't go into the woods intending to do a lot of chopping, but I like knowing I've got a tool that's capable of doing it if I need it to.

If I take an axe, all it will be good for is chopping. If I take a knife, it will be capable of a lot of jobs, and chopping is on that list. I'd still rather use a small folding or chain saw for cutting logs, and use the knife to split them. I can split wood a lot more safely while tired or injured using a baton and a good knife than I can using an axe.

cool...


I'd rather use a steel...or stone if it gets real dull...that's just me..



that "argument" comes up quite frequently on this forum about many items... I agree though... not for "every" merit or downfall...its just a point of perspective...



I like all of your thoughts and reasoning...thank you

Doc

granted they could.... but then again...depends on the situation...I like a saw...but i have seen them break before an axe would...

Doc

LOL! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Just be careful, some of those rabbit are mighty vicious.

<img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> [/quote]


RUN AWAY!!!! RUN AWAY!!!!

Doc

WOW!!! great explanation....you provide great instruction tutorials...I have seen them before...

Thank you ....

I do have a handle on sharpening, although I must admit, I learned long ago, on stones, and steels....I do want to try the old belt sander though...just gotta get some belts...and cheaper blades...to screw up with...cuz I will..

I know a little about geometry, too...

Now where do I get the belts...?

Doc

http://www.leevalley.com

I love those...almost as much as the electric on on my can opener....now that is the bomb diggity...

Doc

If you're looking for sanding belts, I've bought some from this company before, and found them to be good.
Peach Tree

Thanks....

Doc

Thank you, too...

Doc

Thanks for the info!

LOL! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Just be careful, some of those rabbit are mighty vicious.

<img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> [/quote]


RUN AWAY!!!! RUN AWAY!!!!

Doc [/quote]

Doc, chopping logs doesn't even come close to phasing my dogfather, even with the thin edge. It will easily outchop bigger, heavier knives with thicker edges and works about as quickly as a hatchet, while being suited to other jobs the hatchet doesn't work as well for like clearing vegetation. If I expected to chop logs all day I'd bring my two handed axe rather than the dogfather, but I still like testing my tools to see what they're capable of. Just like I'll cut up fruit with my S5 to see how it does even though in a normal scenario I'd reach for a much thinner blade for that job.

Convexed edges aren't any more work to field maintain if you use a microbevel <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

So 21 out of 22 people feel the need to modify the edge,maybe someone should start some sort of poll or post so we can determine what size ranges of knives we are are most unhappy with and what sort of edges we would like as stock and provide some positive feedback to the Busse-Kin family?
I have been quite happy with my SRKW RMD and Chopweiler,they have both sliced wood very reasonably.My Bandicoot took quite a bit of work( it is now not great but ok ) and I gave up entirely on my DM CG, not having any power tools it would have taken too much time and effort to modify.

When I got my Scrapper 6 I didn't like the edge and my Bravo 2 would out-cut it, but since I put the convex edge on it I like it a lot more. I was doing some yard work last week and trying to fit stones together in a path. One stone would not match up so I "cut" a 3/4" x 3/4" x 1.5" chunk out of it with two swift hits from the S6. I got the stone block to fit nicely and thought for sure I would have some edge rolling or even chipping that I would have to fix. I stared at that blade for a good minute or more and couldn't find any damage what-so-ever. I wish I would have taken a picture. I am truly amazed at that blade now. That was with a sharp convex edge on it. I must say that the Scrapper 6 has really been growing on me. I also convexed a Busse High Street but I've left my other BusseKin's alone for now (maybe not for long). I really like the convex on blades 7" and smaller but I haven't tried it on the larger blades yet. If the S6 is representative, I really see no reason *not* to have a convex edge, although I know its not the only way to go. If the edge is not damaged it only takes a couple minutes to bring it right back up.

I plan to leave my S5 alone for now. It is already shaving sharp, as delivered.

Yes, without a belt it took me at least 45 minutes to convex the S6. But I enjoy that kind of thing so its not so much "work" as it is "hobby". Someday I'll get a belt sander and be dangerous.<img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> The total cost to convex that S6 and Busse HS was under $10, not including the price of my strop bat that I already had ($35) and I can do several more knives with those 4 pieces of sandpaper and a mouse pad.

Ever since learning how to convex by the mouse pad/sandpaper method, I have convexed all of my V-grind knives. The person who showed me how to do it on another forum was a maker named Garrett Schmidt, a knifemaker, who came up with a clever set of diagrams to show how its done in a very intuitive way. In Garrett's words, "the main thin you are trying to do when converting a V-grind to a convex, is to knock off the bevel shoulders'. Taking this thought a bit further, you can, but do not have to, actually touch your edge. By knocking the shoulders of the V off at the bevel you are decreasing drag through the slice and increasing cutting performance by reducing friction at the edge/bevel junction.

Now perhaps this doesn't make this a true convex conversion, but rather a hybrid which seems to optimize the advantages of both edge types. Personally, I feel a little the way Doc does. I enjoy convex, but I hate the effort it takes to strop a blade to razor sharpness. Mostly what I do is convert the V-grind to convex by mousepad/sandpaper through to 2000 grit. Then instead of stropping, I simply put a micro-bevel on it with the sharpmaker. The micro-bevel takes about 30 s to produce and I think yields as good as an edge as a true convex one establed by stropping. A final point is that even if you have a fully convexed blade, there is nothing stopping you from using a stone or a ceramic rod in the field to put a micro-bevel on. It won't take any more effort to field sharpen your blade like this than any V-grind under the caveat that your micro-bevel is performed at a more obtuse angle than the final edge of the blade. Also, in contrast to the purists - you aren't suddenly destroying your convex grind by putting a 0.5 mm microbevel at the very edge. If you want to re-convex it, take a about 30 swipes per side on 1000 grit then 2000 grit with the mousepad/sandpaper and proceed to a strop. Its as easy as that.

Batonning - heck doc - we probably had our share of debates on those other forums. If you know me - I baton 20x more than pre-pubescent parade girl ever would dream of. I've batoned the hell out of 0.095" thick knives without problems. The way I usually qualify things is that there is a continuum to how you baton. You start the split and you can usually feel when there is too much resistance to proceed. You don't have to finish a baton if you feel it is adding to much stress. If I were in a survival situation, I wouldn't hesitate to baton. But that doesn't mean I wouldn't use common sense while performing this activity or really on my personal experience with the knife I'm using.

One reason I baton often with my knives is so that I get to know how they perform so I know how they will perform when I call upon them. Better to have a blade snap in my backyard than at camp. If it happened in the wilderness, I'd probably have to go to the trouble of reaching using my weak side hand to draw on my secondary belt knife <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

Finally, I'll admit. I buy scrapyards to beat the piss out of them. I don't find them particularly pretty knives, even when they are brand spanking new. They are about as pretty as Mike Tyson but also as tough. For me, the whole point of buying Scrapyard is so that I can smirk at the words 'abuse'. 'Abuse' its not even in the vocabulary of Scrapyard!

Well said, though I disagree with the statement that Scrap Yard knives aren't pretty.

There is a certain beauty in a purpose built toughness. If a tool can perform its task to perfection, with no wasted effort, and stand up to use and abuse, there is a beauty in that to me....but then again, I think A-10's and F4 Phantoms are gorgeous too.... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />

Yep - when I'm batoning in the back yard, or car camping, I will INTENTIONALLY choose the worst logs to baton - I find nasty, big, ugly knots, seasoned hardwoods, and twisted and gnarled abominations that look like they couldn't possibly be a product of nature. If I can baton a knife through those with no problems, then I know I can baton it through woods that are chosen more judiciously in the field.

This M9LE took a little bend in a ridiculously hard bit of birch that happened to have a fork at the base of the log. It sprung back to true as soon as the log was split, no worse for the wear, and I've got a pretty good idea that it can handle more than I would throw at it in the woods.

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

Mustard Man - that rat bending like that and springing to true is very cool!

You're killin' me Smalls....

But heck..they are your knives... do what you like...its just not for me...If I was in a situation that needed that I feel like I would be unprepared.... but whatever... just my opinion (I can't have anyone else's..heh heh heh)

Doc