Scrap Yard Anniversary Knife? CPM M4?

What about a Scrap Yard Anniversary knife? In CPM M4?
I'm guessing it may be a little on the higher end but it wouldn't be so bad in a CG. A satin finish option could be available also. The only reason I bring it up is because I have noted many makers moving to this steel, especially those in BLADE competitions. So, here goes a poll.

Ha! So the Anniversary knife is favorable but we are split on the CPM M4.
I am very curious as to why, though my guess is price.
Have you guys seen the numbers on this steel? There is a reason it wins competitons.

I voted yes/yes - I like many steels and am always up for something new and different here at the Yard. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Seeing what these guys can do with 154CM, I think they could/should try some other steels on occasion. SR-77, 101 and Infi are great though and I'm okay with those and the occasional 154CM.

I also like:
CPM D2
CPM S30V
CPM 3V
and several others... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I like steel! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

I'm in for both. Though, I'm a fan of M2 - I've never used M4. 3V is nice too. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I don't think scrap yard will use any powder steel but I could see a2 o1 or d2

I had to look up M4 to see what it was, looks like it is already a fine steel. And after Dan gets done applying his special touch.... we could have a really cool blade.

One thing about all CPM steel is that it is expensive. With 52100, 50100 B, S7, 154CM, D2, and probably some left over A2 lying around the Busse scrap yard, I'd be happy with the anniversary knife in one of those more affordable steels with Busse's great heat treat. But that's just my opinion.

I see an anniversary knife before the 154M4. But we can wish!

yes & yes

just got done reading the thread on bfc in the WSS section...

it sounds like a dang good steel

Nice! I like the responses. The truly hard part would be the design of the blade itself. From what I've read CPM M4 is better for big blades. You know we love our mucho grande knives! That being said, I don't think I would care what steel would be used for the anniversary knife. I KNOW I would buy it anyway, lol.

Yes to the knife,
No to the steel (not really no, I just don't care what steel they use)

BG-42, Talonite... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

me too. lol. Between the swamp and the yard, my cc is smokin'!!

Ha! So I guess I should invest in Ramen.

how much for bread and water? <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

CPM S9V looks amazing. Probably hard to work and hard to sharpen, but once it is there... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Check out how it compares to M4 in wear resistance and toughness. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

CPM S9V

I knew I could count on you for a frugal approach, Bruce. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Yeah, I would love to see 3V with the Busse Heat-treat.

<img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" />

From this quote on the intro page, "... to bring a line of high performance American made blades to the market place at very affordable prices." to the mission page, "... we will keep our manufacturing costs down and our quality unmatched at an affordable price." -- keeping the price down is an integral part of Scrap Yard's company vision. Unless there are scrap piles of these "super steels" lying about, then they're not what the yard is about.

I could see your point if it wasn't for the fact that other companies are putting it out at prices comparable to the Yard. Benchmade, Spyderco, etc.

I'll admit ignorance about exactly how SY's production costs break down, but my assumption is that the cryogenic heat treatment is a much larger expense than the steel. I wouldn't classify other knives as comparable in quality if they don't have a similar heat treat. I used to buy a lot of Cold Steel, and I believe that I own some pretty good Carbon 5 and AUS-8, along with some even better San Mai CS blades, but I don't consider them equal to my SYs.

good point jim....

I agree Bruce (and Jim), but they have already ventured into other steels besides those three. I don't know how they came about the 154CM or the D-2, etc. but those were used and used recently. I'm not saying that they should use any other steels just that I wouldn't mind if they did. There are plenty of knife makers out there using thee other super steels if one wants to try them...But if given the choice, I would rather have a SY knife made of CPM M4 (with the Busse HT) than some other brand. The fact is that there are many great steels out there and the main three that the Busses are using are 3 of the best. But, if they chose to make a special offering in some other steel, I think many would jump at such an opportunity. I know I would. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I agree with the cryogenic heat treat, not cheap. As for the various steels, I've been here for less than a year and have obtained from the Yard knives in SR77, 154CM, SR101 and hopefully INFI soon. From Swamp Rat I scored a D2 blade as well. Jerry has mentioned the testing of other steels and Horton is venturing into CPM M4. I wouldn't mind seeing the Yard trying new things, but I also wouldn't mind if they stayed with what they have now either. Just throwing it out there.

I have no interest in CPM S9V for a knife.

While S9V ranks up in the S7 ranges for toughness, it is designed to be hardened at a pretty low hardness range (like S7). So, while S9V can be made VERY tough, it isn't likely to get or hold an edge very well.

Personally, while I think S7's toughness is AMAZING, I am not real fond of S7's edge properties. And while S7's level of toughness can have certain values at times, I generally prefer a knife with VERY good edge property qualities and will generally be VERY happy with something like SR-101 that is not as tough as S7, but MORE than tough enough for my needs while providing much better edge properties and qualities. SR-101 is a better "Balance" of knife properties than SR-77 ***** For "My" preferences. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

If you want a pry-bar knife, S7 is "plenty" good enough AND really WAY off the charts in toughness enough for that. If you can't break it, what more do you need? <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> And I doubt S9V has much improvements in edge qualities over S7 and S9V probably costs a LOT more than S7. So, I personally wouldn't have interest in searching for an alternative steel for pry-bar knives.


-----------------------

M4 seem to be on the opposite end of the spectrum compared to S7 and 9V.
M4 is designed for HIGH hardness and generally run at about 63-64 HC.
S7 and 9V are reletively low hardness steels commonly at 55-57 HC.

Most tough knives are aroud 57-58 these days.
And most sharp smaller field knives are around 59-61.

S7 and 9V are extreme on one end of the spectrum and M4 is extreme on the other end.


Art mentioned:

I am curious what and where you have read this Art. I think you likely made some semi-false assumptions based on some info you have read. But, this is an assumption on my part.

From what I know about M4, it is in HIGH favor with a lot of competition rope cutters. Their knives blades are long, but I don't think toughness is nearly as important to them as sharpness. I think "Sufficiently" tough with much higher emphasis on edge retention and edge toughness is more important to the competition guys.


Per Crucible, M4 is tougher than D2, but not quite as tough as A2 = Still fairly tough! But, not as tough as many steels we are becoming used to around here for heavy-duty choppers and “longer” knives.
I think I will likely stick to choppers that are tougher, have sufficient edge qualities and a LOT easier to sharpen. I don't want a chopper that is so hard to sharpen. I like SR-101's balance of toughness and edge properties a LOT for my choppers.

I know INFI and S7 are still a LOT tougher than M4 and I am pretty confident 52100, 5160 and similar are also tougher than M4. But, I don’t have specific info to compare these steels to the Crucible steels in toughness. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />
Plus, hardness level and heat treat are a big part of the equation.

By todays standards and based on the edge qualities and performance, I would argue that M4 is actually WAY more suited for smaller knives where you want extremely sharp edges to stay sharp for VERY long times, rather than larger beater/chopper/prying knives.

I have a Spyderco Mule (small knife) in M4 and love it. I can’t confirm how tough it is, but it is a MEAN slicer. It holds a CRAZY sharp edge. But, I sharpened it and can confirm that it’s 64 HC was a PITA to sharpen.

The Spyderco Mule is a small fixed blade knife with no scales with about a 3.3125” blade and about 7.625” oal. The knife concept was created to help people test different types of steels. Spyderco also made the Mule in 52100. The M4 version cost about twice the price of the 52100. After grinding on the M4 to reprofile the edge and assuming the MUCH higher Crucible price for Crucible steel, I can see why it cost so much. It is MUCH harder to grind than 52100.

I don’t have exact info to support, but I assume 52100 with Busse heat-treat is still tougher than M4. And while Busse SR-101 holds an awesome edge, I assume M4 holds an edge longer. But, SR-101 is WAY easier to sharpen.

I haven’t done a side by side, but the Spyderco M4 is about as hard to sharpen as I remember the Busse 154CM was to sharpen. Neither is easy.
From what I remember, 154CM is a bit trickier - hard to explain and may have just been a learning curve on my part.
M4 wasn't so tricky as just requires a lot more time and probably better compound media. Diamond paste or similar higher quaility and harder abrasive compounds might be the trick for M4 and ZDP189 type steels. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

Personally, I like the M4 based on the little familiarity I have with it so far. But, I am VERY confident I have NO interest in M4 in a larger than 5.5” blade.

Shorter than 5.5” and I would like to try some more.

To me, M4 is an AWESOME slicer blade steel, but NOT ideal for choppers, prying, etc.

However, it is EXPENSIVE!!!!!! - And contradicts Dan’s and Scrap Yard’s business model on value.

I would bet money against Dan using M4.

I would describe M4 as a “Boutique” steel and something only certain custom knife makers who are willing to “Wrangle” with it’s hard to grind properties might consider working with.

I think anyone who wants M4 should expect to need to look elsewhere.

.

+1 I hope the next blade will be made of wood so I will have no will to buy it. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

KG- Why do you say this? According to the graphs on the page I supplied the link to, CPM S9V has a higher wear resistance than S7, A2, D2, M7 and S3V (and is tougher than all of these with the exception of S-7 & S3V). Doesn't that equate to edge holding ability? Like CPM S30V and S90V have very good/high wear resistance which I thought equates to edge holding ability - i.e. the edge won't wear as quickly...? Maybe I'm not seeing this correctly? Please explain if you would...Thanks. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Same for me! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

That's what I meant, long. I am pretty sure the toughness can endure the basic camp chores of chopping and batoning with the added bonus of longer edge retention. The numbers are probably not that far off from SR101 but if there is a huge difference in price(like double) then I can see how it doesn't belong in the Yard. Honestly, I think it would make for a killer machete but I think you are right about it being more adept as a smaller blade. It always comes back to price vs performance and so I do believe there is hope for it as a Yard blade but it would have to be small. Maybe that orange mudder design that HD has been talking about.

KS, I don't think that graph you linked showed M4, and I think it showed S7 as being the toughest. SR77 is S7 with awesome heat treat if I'm not mistaken.

KG, this states higher impact resistance than D2.

http://www.cruciblecompaction.com/docs/cpm.pdf

Wow, CPM 9V does look pretty good. Then again, this is all on paper.
Maintenance and price are huge factors and there isn't enough info I could find to justify it's use. If anybody has these numbers, please post.

[/quote]

+1 I hope the next blade will be made of wood so I will have no will to buy it. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> [/quote]

HA! I would buy it. It can be sold under the premiss of "trainer".

You are correct - I edited my post. I left out S-7 when I spoke of toughness. Regardless, that S9V looks like a pretty good steel to me and I bet we some some knives somewhere being made of it - if there aren't already. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Well, Art, I did find this - describing S3V..So, you could make comparisons knowing that on paper at least, S9V is stronger than (greater wear resistance) and about 75% as tough S3V. I took this excerpt from the Crucible site where they are talking about S3V steel...I think S3V and S9V are both excellent steels...I doubt however, that we will see them here because of their high prices.


"The combination of wear resistance and toughness
offered by CPM 3V make it an excellent alternative to
shock-resistant grades such as S7 or A9 in applications
where they wear out too quickly. Or, it can replace wear resistant
grades such as A2, D2, Cru-Wear, or CPM M4
in applications where they tend to fail by impact, i.e.
chipping or breaking. CPM 3V offers the highest impact
toughness of any tool steel with this range of wear resistance."

KS,

Probably my mistake about edge holding and wear resistance.

I think I may have mis-understood and forgot some info I read about 9V and missed the wear resistance chart info.

I got hung up on the HRC recommended range of around 54HRC which is VERY low for a knife.

Which to me, makes 9V a bit of a strange material. Interesting to have "THAT" high wear resistance at that LOW of a recommended hardness... ??????????? <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />



I have to concede, I don't know much about 9V. But, I have researched it "some", and what I DO see is that pretty much NOBODY uses it for knife steel. - Why?

One possible reason: NOBODY wants to try to grind on it and sharpen it.


I guess I don't really understand why 9V has such high wear resistance at 54 HRC. My guess is the VERY high Vanadium content. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

But, part of why 9V might be so tough might likely be it's low hardness (????)

I am pretty confident, S7 is tougher (in part) because of it's lower hardness.

I "assume" the recommended hardness ranges for the steels might somewhat imply that 9V doesn't do well at 60HRC, but I don't know for sure.

Considering how similar 9V is to 10V, I am very curious to why the recommended HRC for 9V is so low at 54 vs. 60HRC for 10V.
Can 9V be hardened to more "common" knife hardness ranges like 10V?
If so, what is 9V like at 58-60HRC?

If 9V were hardened to 60HRC like 10V, I "Assume" the 9V would not be as tough anymore and further assume 10V might be more comparable in toughness. But, I can't find data to support this.

However, typically, lower HRC equates to higher toughness and higher HRC equates to more brittle.

Further, if you compare the composition of 9V to 10V they are pretty similar except for the higher carbon content of 10V.

If comparing 9V to 10V on the graph on wear resistance, 10V is off the charts, but at 60HRC vs. 54HRC of 9V. If 9V were hardened more inline with 10V, I am assuming 9V's wear resistance would even be that much higher and pretty close to 10V.

My guess is that both 9V and 10V have amazing properties, but properties that are just beyond what most people can or want to deal with for maintaining, sharpening and similar. (??????)
Similarly, the knife industry doesn't use Tungsten Carbide or Titanium Carbide for knives. Stellite is fairly rare.

I have read more about 10V than 9V.

I have read about Phil Wilson using 10V and it apparently can get and hold one of the most amazing edges on a knife you can get. I assume Phil uses the recommended 60 HRC hardness range or similar.
But, it is apparently a Nightmare to sharpen and grind.
Still, with diamonds, most steels can eventually be sharpened. Just might take a LOT more time and effort and cost more in sharpening supplies.

So, cost of owning and using such steels for knives could get up there to.


But, I don't know what 9V would really be like for knife use at 54HRC. And since I can't find any info about anybody making knives out of 9V, does anybody really know what a knife would be like in 9V?????


.

I assume you are referring to "M4" compared to D2 (?????)


If so, yeah, but D2 is not really looked at as a high impact steel for choppers these days. Sure, someone like Busse can give it a good heat treat to make it "pretty tough", but considering how many cheap and reasonable GREAT options there are for choppers, D2 and M4 are not typically viewed to have high toughness.

A2 is about where chopper toughness "starts" these days.

So, yeah, I think I indicated that M4 might be sufficient in certain applications for chopping. But, it looks like it might be borderline - at least based on what we are used to.

A2 is pretty tough, but I am pretty sure 52100, 5160, 1095, 0170-6 and MANY other simple much cheaper steels are a lot tougher.

So, while M4 might offer amazing edge properties - at the cost of materials and efforts to grind and sharpen, the cost isn't such a great value if primarily looking for toughness - or a larger chopping blade.
While M4 might offer "enough" toughness in most aplications and is pretty tough, it just starts to get more on the gamble side. Especially for a company like Busse that offers a Lifetime Warranty on their knives.
If I were Busse offering such a warranty, I would not be looking to make a "big chopper" that intices people to push it to the limits out of a VERY expensive steel that might not be able to handle certain abuses.

Whereas, for "Competition Use", again, I think those guys would likely gamble on toughness and go with "Just enough" toughness in favor of HIGH edge retention and VERY sharp edges. And they are willing to pay the cost of the materials and hassles to get the extra "edge".

Competition rope and 2x4's are not as tough as cinder blocks and what some people beat on around here.

.

Ha! Dangerous territory. Almost like saying cinder block chopping is encouraged.
If I'm beating on anything other than wood, I'm not expecting a refund when my knife breaks.

I appreciate the posts, KG. Often one can get lost with all the info that is out there. It's good to know you've covered almost all the angles when thinking of what steel to use for a knife. My hope was a post indicating the pro's and con's so that anyone lurking might get a bigger picture. With all the talk of the "super steels" one can't help but wonder. I have also heard of some new tech for knife sharpening. I think that will play a role as well in the near future.

Well, I tend to generally have the same frame of mind. I consider cinder block chopping to be abuse.

But, the Busse crew has literally posted pics of their knives doing such. And then posted pics of knives in mighty impressive condition after the workouts.
And I have never seen any Busse post claiming cinder block chopping to be a way to void the warranyt. So, I am quite confident it does NOT void the warranty.

The mentallity around the three forums actually almost "does" seem to encourage such abuse. I still don't do it, but I can't say that I mind seeing other people beat the snot out of their knives. At the very least, I think it actually helps sell even more Busse and kin knives. I am sure I am not alone in being THAT much more confident in my purchases from Busse and kin. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif" alt="" />

I think some people have some mis-conceptions that the edges can tolerate such abuse. Even Busse edges get dull from certain beatings. But, the blade integrity seems very capable of being WAILED on. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" /> As long as people understand, minor chipping, rolling and denting of edges is to be expected, I think we are all good around here.

But, I don't beat on such things because I don't find enough gratification in it to have to re-grind my edges back from the abuse...... To each their own.





I try to keep it all in straight, but my memory isn't the greatest anymore. I get some things mixed up from time to time. That 54 HRC on the 9V is still a bit out of the norm and makes comparisons quite different. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />
It is not very "apples to apples" with such disparity in hardness.




I try. But, there are a LOT of different angles and perspectives, - different intended uses, etc.



I am not sure what new tech you are referring to, but if someone would supply me with a lifetime supply of "free" diamond grit coated sharpening belts, I guess I am good with all the Super steels they can bring.

--------------


On a side note - tangent off that thought: in my recent mods to my S5 and RMD, I pulled out my old Delta 4"X36" benchtop belt sander and REALLY like how it performed. I like it WAY better than my 1"x30" that I have been using on my knives for a few years now.

I have like a 50 or 80 grit belt on it and it just flies through steel compared to typical 120, 150 and 220 grit belts I use on my 1x30. = Better have a feel for what you are doing. Faster work can equal fast mistakes. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

But, not only was it way faster, but WAY smoother and better as well. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

The 4"x36" has a large fixed platen, but a small area between the wheel and platen to get a "bit" of convex. But, I have been looking at the machine and I think I can modify the platen to give me a LOT more convex area and still maintain some flat platen area.

The flat platen area grinds flats WAY better than my 1"x30". I can't really get flat grinds on it at all. But, the larger grinder did VERY well.

I had been holding off on buying belts for my 1X30 because I wanted to upgrade to a 1x42 better machine.

Now that I have used the 4x36, I don't think I can settle for less than 2" wide. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif" alt="" /> And the 4" width was VERY nice to work on. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

There are MANY reasons why I liked the larger sander. I am looking forward to getting some different grit belts to see what I can do with it.

Hopefully, I can get back to grinding some more tomorrow and finish up my S5 and RMD. I am hoping to get finished pics up soon. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crossfingers.gif" alt="" />

.

I suppose it is a fair notable exception. But, there have been quite a few critics of the Outcast. And I am not sure why Kershaw went with D2 for that blade. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> - Semi-small machete.

There is not much doubt in my mind that many of the simple carbon tough steel would have provided a better combination of toughness WITH edge retention than they achieved with the D2.

I am pretty sure 52100, 5160, 1095, 0170-6 would have all been better.

There are some other more stainless choices that would have probably been better to. I am not 100% certain, but if the reason for D2 was to maintain more stainless, I am pretty sure Bohler's N685 would have been better as well. Maybe even N690. Probably others as well.

.

Nice, would love to see those modded S5 pics.

I've got an outcast and like it a lot

Bob Dozier does very well with D2 although he doesn't really make any choppers. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I handled an Outcast at a gun show once and while the handle had good ergos like most of Ken Onions designs, I was also not a fan of the grip material and how the grip was made.

Aside from that, I will assume that based on certain people having used them Kershaw managed to get good results out of the D2.

I have seen Swamp Rat D2 take some pretty sever abuse. So, there might be a trick to getting D2 to provide toughness.

But, I still have to wonder if D2 can offer as good an all-round package of the level of toughness needed for that size a blade AND provide good edge quality compared to the simple cheaper carbon steels.

I am working on it. I just don't want to post pics until done.

I am doing some mods to my RMD at the same time. And I am loving both more and more with each little tweak. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

.

IMO the SYDF design defines the yard for me. It just looks like something you want to spend quality time with and you just know it would have your back in a pinch.
I believe any Scrap Yard Anniversary should be a Dog Father, 11-12 inch blade, differentially tempered SR101 (uncoated) with a beefy Res-C grip & a SYKCO Ann. Logo etched BIG on the blades.

I would buy that in a heartbeat.

Thanks Bruce..... I have PLENTY of choppers. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/doh.gif" alt="" /> And I am pretty sure I prefer the DFLE and Battle Rat.....

I actually had the Outcast on my "To Buy" list and have been doing good by NOT looking at that list and conveniently forgetting about certain knives..... as I can't afford them right now. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif" alt="" />

I have been doing good by avoiding the trade forums and ebay. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" />

But, it has been BAD enough with Busse and kin releasing Waki's, Vex's, Regulators, S5's, M9LE's, NMSFNO's, etc. etc. I can't keep up. It is killing me. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif" alt="" />

And here you go and throw out the Outcast. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/doh.gif" alt="" />

I am a SUCKER for Ken Onion's designs. I love the guys work. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif" alt="" />
Although, I do seem to remember having some sort of issue with the Outcast's handle (??????) - But, I can't remember what. It was a few years ago that I last handled one and only briefly.

..... Edited to removed certain pricing discussion info.

Anyway.... THANKS.... Now I have another knife in my head after so much effort to keep other knives out. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/loopy.gif" alt="" />

.

DFLE with a differentially tempered, 12", SATIN, SR-101 blade AND with the "Beefy" new Regulator handles! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif" alt="" />


PLEASE STOP!!!! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" /> .... I can't afford such AWESOMENESS right now. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/sad.gif" alt="" />


..... But, could I have that at about 0.20" thick. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

.

After seeing what SR101 can do, 0.20" would be more than enough!

Yep, make it a "Bushwacker" version. Long and thin 101 baby. Long and thin!

I see you Dogs have already decided that an anniversary knife is a done deal <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Am I shooting for the 5yr mark on this ???... LOL

A anniversary knife would be difficult due to the timing. The INFI scrap pile is going down but it is not out yet.

I do appreciate the input.

Dan

As a reminder, I would ask the Dogs to review the forum rules posted at the top of the forum list about discussing other makers and pricing. Enouugh

Dan

My bad, won't happen again. It did make for some good info though.
On a side note, the SR77 and SR101 I have tested proves more than sufficient.
I can't wait to try the INFI, hopefully it lasts long enough for the Anniversary blade <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crossfingers.gif" alt="" />

Yep...no worries. TEST em like ya mean it <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Dan

Heh! Will do! I've been researching bushcraft and the Mountain Men thanks to BF W&SS so now I've got some ideas...

How 'bout "BAD" on the blade - Big Anniversary Dog!!

<img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/doh.gif" alt="" /> I think the logo already conveys that! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Absolutely. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

There would be a bit of interest I reckon in a Bussekin Competition Cutting knife...I checked out the sport and thought it quite interesting...SR101 done by Dan with a Res C grip would be perfect. I bet there are a few guys here who could do quite well at that! Flat grind SR101 10 inch blade tapering to 22thou at the edge and hardened to 61 Rc which would need to be convexed but thin...sell them on the basis they are specific for the sport and not for the "Cinder Block" stuff...and I think a few Dogs/Hogs/Rats might give this a go...hell I would if I was in the US....infact I might even come over to try this if the holiday fund allows! Doing one of the recognised courses would be an interesting time regardless!

That would be like a dream come true.

I like it

Dan

Anniversary SWORD FTW!!!!