What makes an ideal wilderness survival knife?

Describe what your ideal spec's for a wilderness survival knife would consist of. YOU DO NOT HAVE TO CHOOSE AN EXISTING KNIFE. If there is a knife that you think is ideal (or close to it) then list it (with any modifications it needs), but otherwise I'd like to hear what features your ideal wilderness knife would entail.

FOR THE PURPOSE OF THIS THREAD YOU CANNOT SPECIFY MORE THAN ONE KNIFE. This exercise is suppose to challenge you.

ETA: I'll reserve my "ideal survival knife" specs until people have a chance to comment.

One and one only, probably a .22 ASH with magnum canvas grips. It is not perfect for any single task but there is nothing I can't do with it to one degree or another. The next choice would be a BATAC I think.

No, I don't need all that adjustability. I'm just looking for a well made synthetic stock.

It's a shame Magpul doesn't make a standard stock, they make a good product.

I have yet to put a Magpul stock on my ASH but I am open to the idea....

Oops! Sorry Gary.

I would edit my post but SOMEBODY already referenced it.

Hehe, We're everywhere we're everywhere.

Aussies, there's one in every crowd.

Sorry guys, just couldn't resist.

OK, I thought about this the whole time I was mowing. I considered this knife and that knife, then this handle on that blade and vice versa. In the end I DID pick a Yard blade.

1. I looked at the Mud Mutt. Nice size, lightweight and easy to carry. BUT I felt as if it had to much Belly. PLUS I would want something 3/16 inch thick, nothing less, nothing more.

2. I then thought of the S5! PERFECT, 3/16 inch thick blade, 5 1/2 inches long great all around do anything (Well almost) blade. BUT it had the profile of the Mud Mutt, transition from the straight edge up to the tip (had that same belly profile). I wanted something with not quite so much belly to it, but enough to be a "It'll work" skinner if need be.

3. I then took a look at the Wardog. AHA! Well on second thought maybe not. It's .200 inch thick with a FFG which made it OK, but it didn't have quite enough belly for me.

4. Then I picked up the 411. Now THIS IS IT! But, well, I'm not really sure. Place them all side by side and the blade profiles are pretty much the same (Cept the Wardog and 411 don't have quite as much belly).

5. Then I spied the Muppy (Mud Puppy for you newer folks). But it's only 3.5 inches long, kida short for a Survival knife, but it IS 3/16 inch thick.
Then I picked it up and my hand just slid up on the handle and my index finger wrapped around the choil. Hey this choil may be kinda funny lookin, but boy does it feel good. And it's a FFG blade to boot! Interesting, but still, the blade is only 3.5 inches long!
I continued looking and it DOES have many of my "Wishes".
A. 3/16 inch thick blade.
B. Full Flat Grind
C. Spear point blade, no wait, it's not. The Point is slightly above the centerline of the blade. It's more of a dropped point. And upon further examination, the edge looks like one continuous curve from the choil to the point! Interesting, I like that. And that "Funny looking" choil, well it's a lot more comfortable than you think, plus being angled the way it is it keeps your finger from sliding forward onto the edge.

But it's to short. What's a Dog to do?

I know, use the same blade profile, grind and choil but draw it out to a TOTAL 4.5 inches from the mudder handle (the edge side of the handle) to the tip!

Oh BUT if it were made of SR101 it would need to be Softer (I would aim for 56-57, NO MORE than 58 on the Rc scale) than normal. I am assuming (yeah yeah) that we would all have a sharpener with us, hopefully a diamond hone of some sort. But what if it was lost and you had to use a rock!

To solve this problem, and also for easier maintenance (if it was your ONLY survival blade, rust could not be a problem) make it out of INFI. Oh and do a conventional V grind. If all you had was a diamond hone(Preferred) or a rock this is the only grind that you would be able to maintain.

There you have it and Hopefully persuasive reasons why I think this would be the Perfect Survival blade.

Some of you will say ah it's to short. I thought of that and was going to specify at least a 6 inch blade, but the more I thought about it the more I thought that with the 4.5 inch blade, you could build yourself a shelter, gather food, protect yourself and could use it to make fire thereby also providing drinkable water. It would be easy to carry and wouldn't require you to "Choke up" as you would a larger blade thereby increasing the risk of a Catastrophic cut.

Shelter: Easily built with a blade this size. No it wouldn't be a log cabin, but we're talking survival (I am assuming until rescued, say a couple weeks max).

Gather food: You could make a digging stick to gather roots and a spear for larger animal food and and fish, and you could (if you had the know how of course) use it to build traps for animals and fish.

Protection: You could use the knife itself or build yourself a spear or bow and arrows.

Fire: You could make yourself a bow drill fire starter and once you had a fire you could boil water to purify it.

Just my three and a half cents. Hope you enjoyed reading it and if nothing else got you to thinking before you post your own thoughts.

Randy,
Your specs are very well thought out, and I know of many seasoned survival experts who prefer a knife in the 4" range. I'm going to reserve further comment as to not influence the freedom of this thread. (I want people to express their views as well and untainted as you have done).

Every time I sit down and think on this I come up with a different knife, I guess I am to spoiled with specialized blades.

Greaser, me too. However, I've been narrowing my specs.

My post was really hard for me to do. I LIKE larger blades and wanted to specify a 7 inch range blade, and do still think that is one heck of a good length. BUT I was trying to be realistic and list something that most folks would have on them, not in or on a pack or in their vehicle. Yes things (some anyway) will be more difficult or even impossible with the shorter knife, but it is a knife that I feel folks would actually tend to carry on them and not leave behind because they are only going to be gone for an hour or two.

I've really started to develop a keen sense about what constitutes "the one knife" I'd want to have if I could only carry one blade into the wilderness. I can tell you it isn't a 10" chopper, and it isn't a 4" slicer. Both of those knives are specialized.

I'll add that my interest in lugging around a 9" to 11" chopper has really dropped to about zero. We all love big blades, and they make us feel good about our prospects of survival. I imaging there is some subconscious sexual connotation as well. Regardless, if you've actually used a 9-11" Busse or Kin you know its only really good for chopping stuff up. Chopping is a bad survival move. You risk mechanical and slip injuries (not to mention eye injury from flying debris). Its much easier to baton wood if you need to split something or use a pair of trees as a "break v" if you need to shorten a long section of timber. As for cutting down a tree in a survival scenario...the only time I could see cutting down anything large enough to require a 9" or longer blade would be if I were planning to over-winter in place and needed to build a cabin. I can assure you I have no intention of cutting enough timber to build a cabin...with a knife.

I've now sold all of my Dogfathers for this reason, and am going to sell all of my ASH Battle Mistresses for the same reason.

In the interest of full disclosure: I've not used a BWM which is thinner than most Busse choppers. I think it would likely be a better overall/general use knife than any of the BMs, etc. However, it still wouldn't be practical for the common tasks encountered in the wilderness.

Over the winter I cut some timber with a full sized ax, and it changed my opinion of "chopping". When compared to a 10" Bussekin the ax was a breeze, but overall the experience was dangerous and exhausting.

The four keys to survival in the wilderness are:

1) Avoid injury
2) Stay warm and dry
3) Stay hydrated
4) Find calories

Those are in order. The "fifth" element is "be found or find your way out".

Choppers don't satisfy three of the four (1, 3, 4).
4)

1) As previously mentioned, chopping is a dangerous and somewhat uncontrolled activity. This is especially true when you're tired.

2) Choppers can assist in shelter building, but so can smaller blades.

3) A chopper's only contribution to staying hydrated is firewood. Its easier to baton than chop and choppers cause you to sweat... a lot ... thereby robbing you of precious fluids.

4) Chopping burns tons of calories that are extremely difficult to replace in the wilderness.

5"x1/8" INFI blade, clip point, durable but usable tip, full flat or full convex grind, satin or competition finish (no double cut or blade coating),zero choil, war dog handle.

I am thinking in reality something 5 to 7 inches but there are so many choices in that range thickness, blade shape, overall shape, handle shape and material, ect....

greaser, you don't have to pick a knife that exists. List your own design features.

Most of those specs came to me from my MO 511, it is a great size. It doesn't have a sharpening choil like the standard 511, but the ricasso is larger than I would like. It is ffg unlike the standard 511. I'd rather it be satin INFI for ease of maintenance and I don't want coating bits in my food. And I would prefer the war dog handle. For me, the MO 511 is the closest the Busse Knife Group has come to a perfect bushcraft style knife.

Adam,
I know you're a fan of the 5" do all. I was the same way for a long time. That's why I chose the Scrapper 5 as my first Bussekin. I also have the most outdoor experience / use with a large number of 5" knives. This has lead me to want something bigger.

I keep hedging on what I picked. IF it was a "Forever Survival" knife, my pick WOULD change. Hmmm I wonder if I deleted my original post and did a new one that it would still count as ONLY ONE KNIFE.

Randy,
You are hereby granted permission to change your mind as much as you like by the Founder and Grand PooBah of the Thread.

Just don't edit your posts...I don't re-read them and don't want to miss what you have to say.

Maybe the mythical 611 will meet all our requirements!

Where you at, Dan?!!!

Hopefully making that skelly necker I keep whining about.

I didn't mean to derail my own thread.

On the Survival Knife topic...

My Grayman Suenami 7 arrived last night. I've already put it on the X due to the number of blades I've bought vs my gear budget. Its a really unique design. Someone is going to get a good deal on it.

ETA: I really liked the sheath design. The liner is SUPER UBER thick.

I looked up that blade on his sight Gary and I wasn't overly impressed with it. Not saying it's not a nice knife, but....

I take back what I said about the ricasso in the 511, it's fine. They definitely could've brought the edge closer to the handle, though.

What's the top one Adam?

I don't care for it. My first foray into non-Busse(kin) since 2008 didn't turn out well. Its exceptionally crude when compared to a Busse product. However, its price point reflects this. I'd take $100 less than the maker sells them for just to move it down the line.

Some times you have to stray to find out why you came here in the first place.

The single bevel deal is a gimmick. I think its just cheaper/easier for him to make.

I think Adam's knife is a SHe?

I read oh probably three years ago or longer that they aren't finely refined blades. He said this himself. He makes users, no frills users/bruisers.

Steel heart ergo. Gotcha. Thanks.

Its definitely a bruiser. I think its a good knife for the infantry soldier who could break a crowbar. Its not a knife for an aficionado.

It would be a contender I think.

For a survival knife I'm not sure I like the Ergo handle design. Its similar in concept to the Fusion (drop angle) which is a great modification to the Khurki idea for chopping, but it doesn't seem conducive to detail work.

For a single do-all survival knife I want an inline design that allow for more direct hand-eye precision.

I had originally thought about specifying a Wardog type handle,but then turned it blade up and the Muppy handle didn't seem all that bad in that grip.

I say this without having ever even held an E model so take my dribble with a grain of salt.

But I still like the Muppy, TO ME it just feels SO right. And I really like that type blade profile.

It's a NOe.

For you 7" Bowie types.

I had a B4LE with the WD style handle, and it didn't work for me. Of all of the Res-C I prefer the S6/DM/DF/SOD type and S5/411 Mudder type.

Thanks - I couldn't tell (not very familiar with them). The Natural Outlaws are a great GP knife

Adam, what is that?

Oh and I actually really like the "Strangly shaped" choil on the Muppy. It is VERY comfortable to me and because of the way it's angled it really lets you wrap your finger naturally around it without digging into your finger.

Is that handle style comfortable?

Well, first off. NO [censored] SERRATIONS!

Then I want a handle that feels full in my hand, yet not oversized.
The Lionsteel M3 has such a handle. The RMD handle is pretty close also.

Lengthwise, about 5" and a thickness of 3/16.
In a survivalknife I would appreciate a bit more thickness than on my other 5" blades.
Sabregrind for strength in the blade.

I recently bought a Tank Buster without choil, and have to sell it as quickly as I can. I instinctively put my finger in the choil area of a knife of that size, and have come REALLY close to getting a nasty cut since the TB is sharpened blade there.

I'm 100% in the "useable choil needed" camp.

Man Adam, that thing is so wicked I'd pee my pants if someone pulled that on me! Course I'd probably slid down on all the slickness that suddenly appeared as well.

Tops Prather War Bowie. After the Regulator was released I came up with a list of features that would make the perfect Bowie knife for me, then Tops made it.

Its funny you just posted this. I was typing the same thing!

Serrations really just makes a knife useless for finer tasks.

But it looks cool, so people buy into it

I agree with Y'all, NO SERRATIONS!

Put me on that list.

I have ONE knife with serrations, an Original Nimravus Cub by Benchmade. I thought about sharpening them out, but just stuck it in my knife chest and take it out to look at once in a while. I'll tell ya though, it is a dream to carry inverted!

But it wouldn't make a good survival knife, unless you're talking street survival.

Serrations DO have their place. Emergency personnel and industrial workers that have a need for cutting fibrous or tough materials.

Sorry, I just saw this. It's more comfortable than it looks, but it's designed for fighting. It might get a little irritating after prolonged use or chopping.

...and it's linen micarta. My favorite.

Ha, I have a tanto Nimravus with serrations, and that one just sits in my knife drawer too.
That one and my TOPS Skymarshall HP are the only knives I own with Serrations.
I am trying to sell both...

I don't like tantos.

On a side note, I have an ORIGINAL Cold Steel Mini tanto, with the brass guard and skull crusher pommel. I reprofiled it to get rid of the tanto transition.

Gary, I see you've expanded your trade interests. Check out Tops if you haven't already. They make a TON of different knives, most made from 1095.

The Pasayten Light Traveler is calling my name.

I had looked at that a when it first came out and just wasn't sure I wanted a knife that thin in that length. Seemed like a nice one though.

1/8" at just over 5", exactly what I want. Stainless too!

No doubt it will be a fine blade. Like I said though the only thing I didn't like was the thickness.

You know, I guess we haven't really derailed the "Spirit" of this thread, cept for Gary and his skelly necker.

I'm okay with a thin blade as long as it's good and wide.

Yeah I think the width will help out a lot with the toughness.

I'd love a 5" skelly. I could add some scales and make a great bushcrafter. Still on track!

As far as serrations go having worked on a charter fishing boat in Alaska they defiantly have there place but I usually pass on them any more.

Here are some that come close to being perfect for my from my favorite droll site.
http://knifemods.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/bossjack_2.jpg?w=812

http://knifemods.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/rmd_1.jpg?w=812

http://knifemods.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/regulator_4.jpg?w=812

http://knifemods.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/bossjack_2.jpg?w=812

http://knifemods.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/rmd3.jpg?w=1200&h=

any of them would need a flat spot on the spine for a fero rod.

I've sent 2 knives to Nathan in the past and I have at least 3 more I plan to send to him. He does excellent work.

Sure, and I forgot about my dive-knife.
That one is double edged.
One plain edge and one serrated edge...

Comes in real handy when taking off the head of a fish.

And it would come in REAL handy if ever caught in a net under water.
That would apply as a survival situation...

Well now I want a Tex Creek XL.

That's a BIG knife. Ya sure you can lift it Spidy?

A tad over six inches. I think I can manage.

And with that, I'm gonna hit the sack. Work time comes to early. Peace and rest to you and all those you care for as I contentedly dream of the perfect Survival/wilderness knife. Gotta keep it on track ya know.

THAT'S ALL? Boy looked larger to me. Must have been the pic. I just googled Tex Creek XL

You may be right since I do have a ten pound lifting restriction right now. That's the reason I've had so much free time to post lately.

Good night, Randy.

The handle looks smallish.

Here's a custom I sold a while back. A great design with tapered tang and comfortable coke-bottle handle. It transferred a tremendous amount of vibration while batonning, though. He makes excellent working knives, but doesn't take custom orders.

That knife reminds of me the Browning Crowell / Barker Comp I had.

Looking at the pictures in sequence...it isn't all that similar.

I came pretty close to buying one of those.

I bought that in my lead up to finding Busse and Kin. After getting it in the mail, I instantly thought it looked like a nice version of those giant "Winchester" Bowies for sale at WalMart. Not worth the street price IMHO.

Chris Reeve just came out with a biggo 3V chopper. The prototype has a talon hole, but I'm sure the prodution model won't.

The RMD is perfect.
Also the Blade should have a full tang.

My Taz Rat is my favorite knife, but could be a little too big for some tasks.

MM

I think that we tend to over think these things, but being knife nuts why not.
Growing up most of the "survival knives" that the experienced woodsmen in my area carried was their regular hunting knife and/or their pocket knife

I don't think that I would feel hard done by if I had to survive out here with any of my hunting knives

For over 30 years my favorite outdoors knife is a Woodcraft clone made by Wade & Butchers in the 1930's
1/8" carbon blade and leather handle, certainly not a "super knife" but I know exactly what I can do with it

I don't take that knife out much anymore because I am scared of losing it
I think my most used dayhiker knife now is my ESEE HEST and it only wins out over my Yardkeeper because of the slightly longer handle and kydex sheath

I think my Wardog is choice. I am not afraid to pry with it. It slices well and cuts deeps.

I have one of those Gary! Well Maybe not. Mine is the Browning Magnum Camp with the Ken Rowe Pin lock sheath.

Well SOMEWHERE I talked about the Jack Crane Commando model I had him make for me. Here it a pic of it. SOME would consider it a survival knife and it would work, but The hollow handle and SHORT tang would have me worried.



The top edge is NOT sharpened.

Haha, got my E-ticket from the Grand Poobah of the "Loyal Order of Water Buffaloes"! Now to figure it out. I think a... well I'll figure it out and post again.

You know, the Bulldog Regulator wouldn't be a bad starting place, but with a different handle and not as thick, I think. I'll have to get it "In hand" again.

I really like the Bulldog, but feel that at .331-333 inches thick it's to much. Plus I am fearful that the regulator handle would be to large for some purposes/grips that may be required. This, unlike my first post that was seen as a TEMPORARY "Left alone" blade would truly be a "Lone Survivor" cutting device, the only one available. It would have to suffice for everything a cutting tool would be needed for or would make things easier. More thinking on this I need.

Thanks. I'll have to research TOPS. I've seen their products mentioned countless times, but this was after I went "all Busse". Now that I'm casting a wider net I'll look into it.

Randy, some knives we have just because we like them.

The hollow-handle / screw tang design was made popular by First Blood in 1982. Unfortunately, the design hasn't proven to be durable.

If we didn't over think it this forum wouldn't exist, because Busse would be out of business. I started with a Buck 119. As far as the average person is concerned: it was a great knife with a functional sheath. Some would even say its a (or the) "classic fixed blade". However, just as my search for the perfect general purpose rifle lead me to spend a small fortune on the FN Scar (over other perfectly suitable rifles) ... the search for the perfect outdoor knife generates threads like these and drawers filled with "almost good enough" knives.

The Yard Keeper CG was a great bushcraft knife. I think it should be put back into production with mudder grips and 1/8" SR101.

Better yet...make it 1/8" SR101 and a SKELLY!

Before I found Busse I tried a number of "if I can only have one" general purpose survival knives. A few that come to mind include:

Becker BK2
Becker BK7
Benchmade FIXED Griptilian
Buck Nighthawk
Buck Vanguard
Camillus USAF Survival Knife
ESEE 4
Gerber LMF
Gerber LMF 2
KaBar
SOG Seal Pup

I know there are at least 5 if not 20 more that aren't coming readily to mind.

Yep, here's a couple of pictures with a few I didn't list...

Every knife pictured was explored as a "only one" option...






If I could only find pictures of all of those that didn't make it to this point!

You'll have to search their entire catalog, but they do have a few sound outdoor designs. Most of their knives are the silly, Mykel Hawke/Joe Teti type knives. Just ignore those.

All of those, and many more lead me this direction...

I still haven't found "the one" I'm looking for.

Dang Gary, you could start your own used knife company!

Every knife in those pictures has already been sold.

I wish I could find pictures of some of the other designs I've tried. Anyway, the purpose of posting those was to show some of what I've tried and found to fall short of the "if I could only have one" title.

Edited: typos

I figured you didn't have them or not many of them any more.

OK, I've got this knife thing figured out.

FAMOUS LAST WORDS

Who posts that then disappears?

The Original SkunkHunter..that's who.

1. Start out with the Reg 6.5 blade. As much as I like the Bulldog, I think the spine, where it starts to dip AND the tip wouldn't be conducive to batoning. The 6.5 blade being more of a straight or GRADUAL down curve would work much better.

2. Decrease the .333 thickness to a quarter inch with the Busse heat treat I feel this would be more than sufficient and would also have enough weight to be a so so chopper, remember this will be your ONLY DO EVERYTHING knife. (it COULD be increased to no more than .275 inch thick). Hmmm this is beginning to sound like another knife of Dan's. We'll just have to wait and see once it arrives. ,

3. Get rid of the Regulator handle. Not sure if the Dogfather style handle would work, but maybe if it were about halfway between the regular DF handle thickness and the Regulators, but maybe the Dogfather size would work. Again, we'll just have to wait and see.

4. Steel, well if it were your ONLY knife, rust wouldn't be a problem so the steel type wouldn't really matter. Sr77 would work as it is a TOUGH steel that you could abuse till your arms fell off plus it sharpens easier than SR101. INFI might well be the best though because it IS virtually maintenance free and sharpens up even easier than SR77.

5. I'll let Y'all know next week what I think my conclusion of what the perfect knife for LIFETIME Survival would be.

You just described an S6.

Really, I got this covered.

Randy,
That's similar to these famous last words...

"Hold my beer and watch this......"

Do tell.

Haha, I was gonna type that but I don't drink.

Sorry I went MIA, but had to the Grandpa thing. Had to fix the youngster his bottle. Grandpa's touched.

GOT the touch, I meant to say I've GOT the touch!

OK, NOW it's time to feed the rest of us. Gotta beat the lunch crowd at Subways. But in the words of the famous Adultanator, "I'll Be Back"

You'll probably Super Cool Mod Power edit this, but I'm quoting it anyway.

Here we go derailing another one of my threads.

So, who else cares to throw their ideal wilderness survival knife features into this thread?

Hey, I did use a knife to cut Patty's Tuna sandwich.

Hey, I could say something really cool but don't want to make fun of folks that didn't do anything to themselves to be the way they are.

So let's just say I am touched by the stupid stick from time to time, and the older I get the more I get touched! Hopefully I'll never forget what a knife is though.

Welp, I have a good contender headed my way. Pretty soon I'll have a SAR5 in the house again. I'll post pics when I get it.

This immediately brought a post-swimming pool George Costanza to my mind.

I'm sure that no one wants to see pictures of an 8 year old knife so I won't have to worry about posting any pictures.

Actually this is a pretty good thread. We've all got ideas of what the perfect knife is. But it will only be perfect to each one of us as individuals. We will each one of us find something that is just a little off. BUT we can find a compromise that will probably be as close to perfect (for us) as possible.

Let the quest continue.

I think about knives therefore I am a knife? I dunno.

My thoughts on what features are really needed in a single "perfect wilderness survival knife" are coalescing. I still don't want to influence this thread, but I will say a knife with all of my features does not yet exist.

There hasn't been a lot of praise for choppers as the "single knife" which tells me everyone posting here has been in the woods or at least mentally prepared to be in the wood.

I love big knives (I am Australian, it is in our gene code) BUT, other than playing around at home or just for fun, I have never needed to use a knife to chop firewood. “Batoning” is also a VERY foreign concept to most of us. The Australian bush is populated with trees that dumps LOTS of dead fall timber so one generally only has to wander around a little to find the makings of a fire. If you are anywhere in a National Park/State Recreation area there is about NO firewood to be had (as all the other campers have burnt it up already. If driving in to these I just take a box of wood from around home. This whole logic negates a large chopper as my single blade.

I do however like the ability offered by larger than “traditional” blades such as splitting and working wood to make a DECENT shelter (not just an overnight/survival jobby) and for a number of tasks that are not traditionally “knife” work. I personally think the “closest to perfect” single knife made is the RMD but as I stated up there earlier, if I was to have BUT ONE to carry off and face destiny with it would be the .22 ASH1 followed by a .32 ASH1. It does NOTHING perfectly (except perhaps sit in my hand) but, to me and for my PERCEIVED needs (because these things are all about the individual) it adequately (or better) meets those needs.

yep

Wait, Andy likes the ASH? Who would have thought that!

Cb, maybe we should stage a YARD SKELLY type in on the Knife side forum/

Andy
When I was growing up here in western Canada outdoorsmen carried an axe and small fixed blade
The only person that I can remember batoning as a kid was my dad and that was usually for making kindling

My dad taught me to baton as we used this method frequently to cut kindling in the house for our fireplace

YARD SKELLY!!!!!

I think the answer to ya'lls question begin's with Terror, ends with Fighter, and has the words…..Storm, Monkey & Desert….. mixed in somewhere's in between…….

OK, I'm FAR from an expert but here are my thoughts. Anything over 9 inches to me is a Chopper. Choppers are fun and impressive and some of them chop WAY beyond what their size would indicate. BUT for an "EVERYTHING" knife, they just don't have it. Oh you can do a lot of smaller knife tasks with them, but by being so large they are clumsy in my opinion for some of the "FINER" work/jobs that would be required of a "There can be only one" blade. I base this mostly on my Youth Running around in the Hills of Missouri, and later the Rocky Mountains of Idaho. I carried a 10 inch Bowie knife (the Infamous Negrito Bolo) and it did suffice for everything I asked of it (I carried a 6 inch "Hunting Knife" in my youth, the Bolo was After I got back from my tour in the Philippines.

I did everything from cutting down trees and "Skinning them" to cleaning rabbits and killing/butchering a Goat with the Bolo. BUT the tasks were made more difficult by the larger blade.

I Personally think the "Perfect" survival blade will be one between 4.5 and 7.5 inches, depending on the blade profile and thickness.

IF ever caught out I would do my very best to make sure I had at least two knives, a smaller 3-4 inch detail blade and one on the larger side for other tasks.

I'm of the mind that 5 or 5.5" to 7" is about perfect.

Lets call it 5.5-7.0"

Clarification:

4.25 to 5.0" for URBAN STREET SURVIVAL
5.5" to 7.0" for WILDERNESS SURVIVAL

I can live with those specs.

it all depends on where and in what context you are surviving, wilderness survival could be in any environment that we have on earth.

Case in point, jungle survival would see me bring a 1311 or Killa Zilla.

Urban survival in a major city is often determined by what you are willing to carry size wise depending on how stiff the penalties/laws are. Also, modern combat is mostly in cities and soldier will often carry up to 8" blades and tomahawks.

Bugging out would also change things as you would want to move fast and light so something like a Mud Mutt, Pork Shank or Military Overrun 511 would seem like a good choice.

For extreme cases, you can't even carry a steel knife at all due to metal detectors. In this case titanium, flint, ceramic or even polymer knives would be the ticket which would also change length recommendations.

I firmly believe that 7.5" is about the right size for the most utility/least bulk ratio which will be quite useful in almost any environment if it is designed a certain way.

It should be out of 3/16" stock if strength/weight ratio is important as I believe for any given weight you can make a stronger knife out of 3/16" than you can with thinner or thicker stock's. Meaning, if you're only going to carry a certain weight of knife, 3/16" gets you more strength vs. using 1/4" and up.

8 pages in and we finally get a couple of specs!

Deleted

I actually really like the Taliwhacker LE as a general use survival knife, despite the fact that most would label it a fighter. My thoughts are that in these times surviving might just mean quickly and decisively killing those that would do harm to you. Therefore, I want my survival knife to have a mean streak in it just waiting to be unleashed…...

This would make a good Urban Survival knife, and would work as a Wilderness survival blade too. Although you could find better ones for the Wilderness.
This one needs no introduction.


This one would work for either as well, at least is was marketed as a "Camp knife". BlackJack Knives Magnum Camp

It utilizes a copper "Pin" through the hole in the blade and a conventional snap on the keeper as well.

YUP, that's why I carry one of these. Intimidation is a useful tool.
The fixed blade


The Combat Karambit (smaller of the two folders)


They would also work as "Claws" in a wilderness situation, but you'd have to get REAL close.

I disagree, I have no place for intimidation only sheer brutality/aggression if my life is threatened. Intimidation doesn't always work the way the movies make it look…..

Your Basic survival knife.

It doesn't get any more basic. Blade is an old military truck spring. The brass is "Recycled" 20mm ammo casings. The Silver is thin aluminum. The handle "Leather" is Water Buffalo hide. The sheath I had made about 1980, 4 or 5 years after I go the knife. The Knife wasn't cheap either. Cost me $2.50 in 1975 or 76 dollars (bought in the Philippines)! I paid $25.00 for the sheath in Texas.

I meant intimidation because of the way the knife looks.

There have been all sorts of specs in this thread

There have also been some Very Mild derailments.

Hey, Feces Occurs.

Well, sometimes intimidation works. I had to resort to that tactic only three times in my life to get out of a bad situation so that's not enough for a good statistical evaluation. Not my method of choice, however.

By intimidation I was talking about how Mean and wicked the blade looks. And yeah, it you are going to try and intimidate someone, you BETTER be ready to back it up.

One time, the gun was not loaded. The four guys, however, did not even have any pocket knives on them. I was lucky.

I once had a lady ask me what kind of gun she should get. I recommended a revolver for it's simplicity. Load the cylinder and forget about it until you need it.

I then asked her what kind of ammunition she wanted to use and went on to explain about wadcutters, hollowpoints, +P etc etc. She then said "Oh I won't load it I just want to scare them". I told her to NOT buy a gun.

Very true. It is not a good idea to threaten with an empty gun.

Yes, but this the first time the op has listed some specs of what his ideal wilderness survival knife would be.

He's a sneaky one.

My specs are:
Blade Length: 7.5
Blade thickness: .30
Blade Height: 1 5/8
Over all Length: 12 7/8
Blade Grind: Hollow ground
Steel Type: SR101
Handle Type: Brown Green or Black Res C
Blade Finish: Parkerized
Weight: 14.8

It is the hollow ground Regulator. Long enough and thick enough to use for chopping and short and light enough for carrying and for food prep. For me, this is the ideal survival knife.

I hear you on that, Ray. I've been playing around with mine since I brought it home from Blade and it does seem to be a hell of a survival knife for not too much bulk or weight.

Okay, fine If a Busse asked me to design a "only one wilderness knife"....

Blade Material = INFI

Blade Length = 7.0"

Blade Thickness = 0.22" (half way between 3/16" and 1/4")

Blade Height = 1.875"

Blade Type = Straight Top until 3" from tip then slope down with 3/8" drop point

Blade Grind = Full Flat

Blade Edge = V

Choil = Yes 5/8" Diameter with forward swept cutting edge

Thumb Ramp = Yes with jimping

Special Blade Features = Nuclear Meltdown Treatment (to prevent abrading people and gear) except for 2" in front of jimping which should be a squared 90 degrees (for ferro rod striking)

Blade Finish = Food Grade Fluoropolymer except bottom 1" of blade which would be hand finished satin (ease of cutting and signaling)

Tang = Full tang with exposed Pommel

Pommel = Squared and extended 3/8" past handle scales and flared To 3/8" Wide with Serrations on rear face (for hammering). Laynard hole in middle of pommel.

Handle Shape = Hybrid ASH with SarSquatch

Handle Scale Material = Res-C 360 degrees over full tang but with extended and exposed pommel (like a Fallkniven)

Balance Point = Front except when chocking up on the choil and then neutral

Special Features #1 = Talon Hole (for use as front D-Guard attachment ... rear attachment location would be lanyard hole in pommel).

Sheath = 3/32" thick kydex liner lapped over 1" and thermally formed for positive retention (liner bottom is open for drainage - think of a flattened tube) inside double layer 1000D cordura (similar design to SpecOps' sheath but built better and designed) with thumb snap (secondary retention - formed kydex being primary), grommets for 550 cord wrap, and a large pocket secured with a fold over flap lid secured by hook-and-loop as well as a Fastex Buckle. Pouch would be 5" tall x 2" wide x 1.5" deep and would come with a stainless steel tin that is polished on one side. Back of sheath would have heavy clear plastic watertight slip pocket for adding picture of family member, Bible passage, signal instructions, etc.

ETA:

Blade color choices: Muddy blended with Sage or Safety Orange.

Handle color choices: Sage blended with olive drab or Safety Orange.

Sheath color choices: OD, Coyote, Multicam or Safety Orange.

I'd buy five of these at $600 each.

Sounds like an excellent design

... yes... ".22 ASH1 with magnum canvas grips" is afterall a specification....

..and a good spec at that. The 0.22 ASH is a great knife.

I wouldn't mind trying out a Fallkniven S1 in INFI.

Squared spines have no place on a survival knife, IMO. They introduce a stress riser into the design which can cause failure (breakage). It is not a coincidence that every single Busse & Kin knife does not have a squared spine…..

Carry a proper striker to use your fire starters with, otherwise use the edge in a pinch. The edge can take it without chipping out, I've verified this with a Taliwhacker and about 20 minutes of blasting a fire steel. It needed a little tune up sharpening but nothing you couldn't handle quickly.

Double tap…..

Don't the parkerized Regulators have a squared spine?

No, they do not. You can see very faintly beneath the parkerizing that they have deburred and broken the sharp 90 degree corner. If they didn't, folks would also be complaining about getting cut as even a 90 degree edge can cut.

I wasn't sure. I'm not a Reg fan and have only had a cursory look at pics of the Blade Regs.

Out of curiosity, how does a 90 degree edge induce additional stress? When calculating moment and shear in beams with 90 degree sectional properties no additional stress is measurable due to the perpendicular nature. The stresses are found were we'd expect to see them (parabolic increases at midspan, etc).

Just wondering why bar stock behaves differently.

I know 90d filet welds have more concentrated stress but was curious about bar stock. I don't calculate loads on solids often.

ETA: I assume this is due to compounding Kt?

I'm on my phone and am tired (managing an architectural practice and a farm is a lot to do during summer) so I didn't ask my question correctly: how does a 90 degree corner induce enough additional stress to produce a failure and does it matter if the loads are uniform vs concentrated and applied in which axis (X or Y)?

I know the loads are statically determinate, but am curious about the failure component.

http://www.avweb.com/news/maint/184271-1.html?redirected=1

Scroll down to figure 6 and read the description…… should explain is simply IMO.

Thanks - the stress risers mentioned are on moving parts subject to repetitive fatigue (called creep in static metal design due to uniform loads).

Not sure how this applies to a product that is only subjected to periodic concentrated loads.

Interestingly the cited article also mentions the same type of failure as a result of pits. I guess that's not a concern for Busse (ever see a stripped INFI blade?).

"In time, corrosion pits may mar this smooth surface enough to permit fatigue cracking to begin"

Regardless I guess we'll never know since apparently Busse adds a radii to everything in spite of leaving fatigue crack inducing pits.

I'm headed to bed. Have to start farming in less than six hours.

''night yard

I saw the new guy on Dual Survival (Matt) using his modified Condor knife to drill a hole in some bamboo. The blade shape reminded me of an ASH, but with a less specialized handle shape. He was able to roll the handle between his hands making quick work of the drilling. I thought that was interesting. I could see the old hollow handled Chris Reeve fixed blades really excelling at that.

If one is carrying a blade for self defence the first time your attacker should become aware if it is when he suddenly looses use of a limb or limb functions. His next clue should be the bleeding.

I have some CCTV of a close friend of mine who thought a guy was throwing punches at him. He was fending off each one and in the end used a garbage bin on his attacker as the guy kept pressing the attack. After it was all over I had to point out to him that the other guy was actually trying to stab him and he had not seen the blade at all.... !!!!!

Another specification....

Architect, due to knives being metal I do believe they are subject to repetitive fatigue. I believe you are correct about the pitting on competition finish being a stress riser, as well. Technically even the smallest of scratches could be, too.

This is my current choice or close to it for a perfect survival knife.




I reserve the right to change my mind in an instant with not prior warning. LOL

Nice!

Thanks Arch its the R6 mil overrun. Some may think it too thick but hey it still slices ok and there is no braking it I think you could use it as a climbing apparatus if necessary. lol

R6, Gingrich?

Sure, just go ahead and torture me!

No Swamp Rat rodent6
although now that I see his stuff, gosh darn (self editing) Skunk. lol

.... your welcome...

I thought the R6 looked like a Swamp blade but I also thought that he had a series of R (ranger) knives.

Grrr

I wonder how that feels in the hand

Hey, glad to help out a fellow Dog.

It may not be to bad Bill. Looks like the handles are sculpted. Originally I thought that they were just straight sided but then when I looked closer you can tell that they have palm swells on the sides.

That is what I was thinking

Question
What Swamp Rat knife would be most similar in size and blade shape to the TGLB

Possibly, and this is just my fallible memory talking, the Ratweiller. I was going to originally say the Rodent 9.

I was thinking of getting my son in law a Swamp Rat knife for Christmas

I bought him a Yardkeeper for his birthday a few years ago

Does he like big knives or smaller ones?

I think it was MB that spoke quite highly of the R9.

He mostly likes military knives, but he really likes the TGLB and I thought he might like a Swamp Rat knife of similar style

He loves the kabar mark 4 that I gave him for Christmas two years ago

Have you thought about trying to get ahold of a TGM?

TGM???????

Team Gemini Mini. Looks just like a TGLB but with a I THINK 5 inch blade.

Here's a pic of one.

well that didn't work. Just google Busse combat TGM

Thanks

ASH1s are available with standard (flat) and magnum (palm swell/contouring) ... I have both and much prefer the magnum...

I don't know of course, but this MIGHT be Dan's pick, his FIRST for his once fledgling company, and many say his best.

The S6:

S6CG(Scrapper6 Combat Grade)
Blade Length: 6.5
Blade thickness: .275
Blade height: 1.5
Overall Length: 11.5
Blade Grind: Full flat Grind
Steel type: SR77
Handle type: Black Res-c
Finish: Black Powder Coat
Weight: 12.3oz
Issue Price: $99.95 (Introduced for $89.95)
Issue date: 2006

The FIRST brain child of Dan's Design Acumen, and MANY say his greatest IS a knife to be reckoned with. By the above specs you can see her "Measurements" and drool over all those beautiful numbers.

But that isn't the end, or the whole story.

Mine does measure out right at 11.5 inches. The thickness on my highly accurate plastic ruler measures out at 1/4 inch, NOT the .275 as it's listed everywhere. Now whether this is an aberration or just my shoddy ruler I don't know. Also She only measures out at 6.25 inches from the handle to the point. Additionally she has a VERY slight recurve shape to her cutting edge, and she has a pleasurably rounded spine.

You can tell that she has some weight to her, fostering confidence in her abilities. No she isn't a detail carver, but she will handle most any task you require of her and you DO NOT have to worry about her suffering from fatigue just when you need her most.

Despite this confidence building heft she doesn't feel as heavy in the hand as her numbers would make you think. She is amazingly agile and no, she isn't as swift or agile as say an SS4 or 411, but she was not designed to be. She was designed as a blade you could take to war, confident that she would bring you safely through the gauntlet and still have a smile on her face, perhaps a smirk that says "Is that all you got, BOY"

Now THIS is a Wilderness Survival blade, One that you do not need to design, one where all the work has been done for you. A knife that WILL NOT fail you "When there can be only one".

Hummmm... I wonder if Dan would be willing to make this again, but this time at .220 spine thickness and of course the famous INFI steel! Now THAT would be a Wilderness Survival Blade.

OR just make the knife Architect outlined a couple pages back. I mean he IS a designer!

I haven't posted in this thread, but thought a lot about it. Some thoughts I have are...

Depends on the season. For the Northeast, gotta think about the rule of 3's, so in winter I would be mostly concerned with exposure and have to go with a chopper like my Battle Rat to get me out of the elements as rapidly as possible.

For years I felt like the 7" range was the best compromise and in some ways I still do. I let my Camp Tramp go when I got an awesome sheath for the BR and it became to easy to carry. I have decided that I will get another knife in the 7" range though and will score one of those Survive GS0 7/7's when they are produced again.

Push comes to shove though, I can do a lot with a 4" blade. My gen 2 Howler is the only 4" blade I did a full on shelter to practice. After getting my Gen 1 Howler, I do think the gen 2 chopped a bit better...think the weight distribution was different with the monster choil.

As I started funding my firearms/shooting from my knife collection, I decided to try and stop my eternal search for something better...although it's hard. I love checking out knives so much and am uber curious about the SOB, Survive 4 and some others.

As my experience grows and my lack of interest in maintaining / carrying extra gear / weight my interest in carrying a knife over 7" decreases. I still think the NMSFNO is a fantastic knife, but its big and heavy.

I'm starting to look more favorably on small knives.

I started my Bussekin collection with a 5" Scrapper 5, and then progressed through countless SR77, SR101 until I finally landed at INFI. Since small INFI doesn't seem to cost much less than big INFI I started going larger. Plus, I always believed in the Trifecta (3-4" detail, 5-6" General, 8-10" Chopper). Now, I'm heading the other direction. I'm selling INFI and looking at traditional carbon steels again.

Its not that I don't like INFI, because I do. I think its a great knife steel (with Busse heat treat). I've been selling it because it makes the most sense in knives over 6" and I'm starting to think knives UNDER 6" are better survival / bushcraft / life happens knives.

This cyclical mental loop has been expensive, time consuming, frustrating and exhausting. However, in the end I think I'm going land were I intellectually started: the trifecta.

I'll probably end up with a SR101 or 1095 4" for 99% of my knife uses, an INFI 5-7" for my general purpose, and an INFI chopper because it makes me feel good.

If I had to leave the house never to return and could only grab one knife?

7" INFI.

If I was going camping or hiking?

4" SR101 or 1095

Maybe the ideal compromise "only one knife" is the Busse SAR5 with 5" x 3/16" of INFI....

...and thus the cycle begins again

Here ya go Gary (You can thank me later)

The Trifecta Grail:

Sar 8
Sar 5
Meaner



And here I am stuck with this old S6.

I may be repeating myself...but....



....

Andy, I think you have cornered the market on the ASH series. Are the two Gray/Black handled ones different thicknesses?

Well since the originator of this thread has changed the rules, I'll go with my:

1. 911 Just because it's easier to carry than the 1311. BUT if if was strapped to a pack quite possibly the 1311. I would need to think more on it.

2. 511. MAYBE the 411. Again I would have to do some serious thinking on this. The 411 feels more balanced in my hand but the 511 I THINK might prove to be the more versatile blade.

3. Mud Puppy. My hands down favorite smaller Busse/kin blade. Now if it HAD to be small overall, it would be he Swamp Warden W/out scales, probably worn as a necker.

Oh and My reasoning for picking these blades is that they are ones I already own.

Well now wait a second. I think I am gonna have to revise my original list, cause I FORGOT I had at least one of the knives I would choose.

1. Busse Combat BWM (I keep forgetting I've got that one)! With the 911 as second pick.

2. IF I had one, S5 made of INFI steel. (anybody need a Busse Wardog Hack). Alternate picks would be the S5CG or 411.

3. Mud Puppy/LE with the Swamp Warden as an alternate pick.

If I was as good as Tom Hanks I could live comfortably with those blades.

That's a great looking group!

IN the hopes of staving off Murphy's Law, I would probably have the BWM/911 strapped to my pack. Probably the same (Or in one of the smaller compartments) for the Mud Puppy.

Now the INFI S5 would be (always) on my belt.

You know, now I've got a pouch large enough for one of the space saver type space blankets along with a water straw some TP, fire kit and some paracord AND a medium/large folder!

Rich, I kipped it off the interweeb somewhere.

But for Now, Based upon WHAT I OWN, my "There can be only one" blade would still have to be the S6 due to its sturdiness although I prefer a different blade just a tad thinner (.220 seems to be a VERY popular thickness) and made of INFI, Like the ASH series. That IS a very versatile blade shape.

My search continues, but I have a SAR5 and LM. Both are great knives, but are companions.

I'm still looking for "the one". The Survive GSO 7/7 looks VERY interesting.

Andy,
That's a really nice collection. I have a couple of ASH-1 too. My 0.22 Coated is in the "permanent keep" pile. My wife has continually selected it as "her knife" from the literally nearly 200 various Busse and Kin I've now owned (as well as some other really nice knives from other makers).

For her, the "ONE WILDERNESS KNIFE" is the 0.22" ASH-1.

I've all but completely 100% decided a large chopper is unnecessary and is wasted survival weight. "Large" is relative, but for me it means any knife with over 8" of blade. In my search for the perfect SINGLE wilderness knife I keep coming back to the 7" x 3/16" design. Its large enough, but its not too large.

I really want to keep this on track with regards to a single knife. We can all choose 3 knives that fit our needs - that's easy. This thread is about really digging deep and exploring what is important in a wilderness knife. Its about making tough choices which is essentially what wilderness survival requires of people.

Ten years ago I had wilderness survival gear that was so overloaded, redundant, and heavy as to be not only a hindrance to movement but also a danger (of causing mechanical injuries). There is certainly a place for redundancy in survival, but really tough choices need to be made. Any wilderness kit over about 35 pounds can become problematic. Carrying 5+ pounds of knives and sheathes doesn't leave enough residual weight for food, shelter, fire, defense, water, navigation and signaling.

The lighter your load the faster you'll move (and safer you'll be from mechanical injury). I've had to carry someone out of the wood because of an injury. It is not fun.

Realistically, knife redundancy should be a small lightweight skelly (5oz) and a general purpose knife (under 16oz). However, this thread is about THE ONE knife so lets keep digging until we find it...or someone builds it!

Have you checked out the Busse SARGE 7 (SAR Garth Edition)? It has the large SAR handle, ffg, and skeletonkized tang.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/923849-Introducing-the-SARGE-Series-YOWZA!!!!!!-Nice-Job-Garth!!!!!

Link isn't working, but there it is.

I have actually considered that model. Its one that I think I'd have to hold before buying. It seems like a neat design, but there is something off about it. The design brings to mind a 5" knife that has been increased in size by 25% on a copier.

If I can't get ahold of a DSF then a Survive GSO 7/7 will be ordered. I put myself on the email list yesterday. The handle looks super comfy and the weight is pretty nice for that size of a blade

.... your wife is a VERY smart woman.... but you knew that already.

Skunk... those two ASHs are identical. I search for months to find one (they are .32s BTW) in that colour combo and then as fate would have it, scored a second the same week...!!! Not complaining mind you.. I have some more ASH here, just no pics ...

I wish knifetest.com was still active and Noss would test this Survive line.

I second this

Wilderness Survival can (Does) mean so many things. It will in all probability be different for each of us.

For one, it will mean the modern world has ended and we are suddenly plunged back into a subsistence (Wandering ?) lifestyle.

For others it will mean a long "Lost" weekend where the knife must provide Shelter and possibly food and a means of providing "Safe" drinking water.

For others it will mean nothing more than a way to cut your cheese and bread as you set down to partake of a simple meal of Wine, hard bread and cheese.

We need to first off decide what WILDERNESS SURVIVAL means to us and base our design criteria upon that definition, knowing that we will NEVER find the "Perfect" knife. SOME situation will always pop up to spoil our Perfect Blade. Murphy is, has been, and always will be alive and well.

I found a Cordura (Regulator style) sheath for my S6 that is a perfect fit. It has of course the auxiliary pouch on the front of the sheath and it MIGHT hold a Ferro rod W/striker, a leatherman and diamond sharpening rod. I can attach a small "Capsule" to it to hold Petroleum cotton balls.

So for now at least, this will be my "Wilderness Survival" blade.

Good post Randy. Thumbs up if there was an icon!

At 3/16" it wont stand up to the abuse a Busse FBM could, from ready the previous posts none of us are looking for that. If I get one and I like it I'll test it. I'll test it doing "knife Stuff". Also the reason I've been looking into a hawk/axe is so my blade wont have to take an insane level of abuse.

I do miss that site though...

Randy,
I agree with Rich. Your point is well made. I never stipulated what "wilderness survival" entailed since thats the nature of survival: unpredictability. My definition is: I don't know what I'll have to face since I cannot shape the INITIAL scenario. Therefore, I need a knife capable of providing all conceivable functions.

Massive Metal,
Agreed. I don't think anyone in a real survival mindset would want to risk damage to their principle survival tool unless it was 100% necessary.

I'm not a Bear Grylls styled outdoorsman. I'm very much of the Les Stroud mindset...he tries to not use his knife if he can easily fashion another cutting implement in an attempt to save the tool for "when it really counts".

My regulator sits in one with my EOD leatherman (hey you never know when you need to crimp a blasting cap) its a nice set up for urban survival.

This ^^^ with all of your equipment is a good practice when replacement isn't readily available.

..... I wholeheartedly agree that we MUST know how to improvise tools, if your primary is lost or damaged (or course that will be hard to do to my ASH.. )so that it is no longer usable. There is however a balance that must be struck in a true "survival" situation. Taking the time to make a replacement tool/implement can be a time/energy/calorie burden that cannot be entertained, that may not be readily predictable at the time either. By way of example, I am a believer in getting things done there and then if they are a must (eg shelter), so if I take the time to fashioning a rudimentary hand axe from a flaked stone(as opposed to chopping with my ASH) that may be well and good, the sun is shining and the birds chirping, but as I am still 1/2 way through building the shelter (that would have been finished had I just "got on with it") a storm/cold front rolls over (just last week here in Sydney and the surrounding mountains we went from warm and sunny to gale force winds and light snow in an hour)and I am caught waaaay out. Saving the wear on my ASH was not worth it in the great scheme.

Architect - not a negative to making tools at all, you know that, just hard know when this is the appropriate course of action in the interests of saving one you already have.

This is why WE ALL are on the quest for the best quality tools in the first instance.

True Andy, I was thinking long term when you have down time or the opportunity presents itself. I can't speak for Arch but I am sure he was on the same wavelength as well.

YUP. That's kinda what I was thinking, but then again I was also considering (first off) just a "I'm lost and can't be found for 3 days" kind of thing".

Hey Survival means different things to different folks.

All righty then, on my S6 "Gotta use what ya got" knife I now have a "Mini kit" in the front pouch on the Cordura sheath I found for it.

It houses of course the S6 although I DO wish it had a custom molded kydex liner so it wouldn't rattle at all.

The Pouch now houses:

1. Original leatherman tool.
2. Smith's retractable diamond hone http://www.smithsproducts.com/product/dret-diamond-retractable-sharpener/
3. Magnesium rod http://firesteel.com/magnesium-tinder-rods/ and a striker http://firesteel.com/firesteel-super-scraper
4. I've attached an aluminum capsule filled with PCB impregnated with magnesium shavings to the strap on the pouch. The Ferro rod is a custom build that I got From DT (I also got the magnesium rod from him.

I guess I should add that it is the Short Cordura sheath that they sold on the site for a while. It fits the S6 perfectly but would benefit from a form fitted liner. The present liner is just a folded over piece of clear plastic.

The Winkler II Stiker. It has a 5.25" blade, and a tang that tapers from the 3/8" thick (!) exposed hammer pommel all the way to the tip. One continuous taper the entire length of the knife. The tang is skeletonized to cut down on the added weight. This is my next knife.

I'm not tech-savvy enough to post images, and I don't want to post the link because it has the price listed.

I'll take mine with recycled rubber handle scales.

Here is a pic for you Spidy.


Nice looking piece.

Thanks greaser.

There's a spine shot on one of the dealer websites that I found very interesting.

Yes, absolutely.

I also advocate reducing wear on gear when alternatives are readily available. E.g. in a real survival situation I won't find building a debris shelter or teepee or leanto shelter as a fun task in which to use my Busse. I'd be more concerned with expediency, efficiency, and reduction in injury risk. As such, you'd more likely find me looking for readily adaptable shelter (a tree that has blown over, etc) where I can quickly assemble a shelter by v-breaking the balance of the main structure instead of hacking away with a knife.

The knife wouldn't be spared from getting to heart wood since I view fire as the single most important wilderness improvisation.

Improvised tools don't exclusively mean FABRICATED tools. Nature often provides everything we need without our interference.

Beyond that, I 100% agree with Andy. Me first, tools second. If the equation provides the right variable for tool preservation - bonus.

I don't remember if I or anyone else addressed this on "Survival knives".

I feel that a lanyard on a true survival knife is mandatory. No I don't really like lanyards all that much but in a true survival situation having that lanyard can keep you from loosing the blade over water, in the snow or over the side of a cliff or from a tree. The last thing you need to do is loose your only means of protection/food/water and shelter preparation.

So if you don't really want a lanyard on the knife all the time, at least have one ready to put on in case your outing does truly become a case of survival.

Very good idea, Randy.

I've dropped more than one knife, and a couple I've lost.

Yep good idea Skunk, plus you can choke back for chopping then with it.

I've lost at least one fixed blade (that I can think of at the moment).

I plan on exploring the use of lanyards more this fall. I have a couple of acres that need to be limbed, and I plan on using a Busse for a lot of it. Sounds like a good time to further test them.

Gary, I am sure that you already know this, but if you are using Busse blades put your lanyard in the FRONT talon hole and set it up so that even if you open your hand the handle will stay in your palm just by the weight of the blade with the lanyard around your wrist.

Thanks Randy. That's how I've used one before. I also have a paracord D-Guard, but it can't be left on the knife since it won't work with my kydex sheath.

Arch, do you still have your TGLB? I'm curious what your thoughts are on it

MM

I am planning on getting my CCW and Patty said I could get a new Carry Gun. I've looked at a couple From Sig Arms (I have two already and like them) but decided I am going to use My P225 9mm or .40S&W Star.

SO I used the money I would have spent on a new carry Weapon and bought What I think is EXACTLY what I was looking for but.... IT'S TO HANDLE HEAVY!

I was able to score a Boss Street with two sheaths AND IT'S NOT BLACK! Actually it's Sage with Tan Canvas handles. I've sent an email to the Busse custom shop wondering if my next Month's Government check would cover:

Grinding it down from it's present thickness of (Using my HIGHLY accurate plastic ruler) .250 inch to between .171-.175 (about 11/64 inch) and then reattaching the Tan Canvas handles. It wouldn't need to be re-powder coated but IF the coating was still along the spine and top/bottom of the handle after the re grind I think that would look nice.

Reducing the thickness this way will make it a bit lighter, hopefully enough to make it a true joy to use.

Don't get me wrong, it's useable now, just heavy.

In all probability though I will wind up just leaving it as Is (Except for lengthening the choil with a chainsaw file) because, at least to me, it could be cost prohibitive.

Just got done taking the BS to a Medium Spyderco Ceramic hone. NOW it will cut a piece of paper from a yellow legal pad easily and will actually allow you to turn directions while cutting. At least that problem is taken care of.

Randy, just send it to Nathan at Kestrel Knives (Norcalblacktail) and he will skeletonize the tang with his waterjet for you.

It makes an incredible difference, but voids the warranty. The Boss Street is one that shouldn't ever need the warranty, though.

They're all gone.

I resisted buying one for a very long time (in spite of being considered a "good value"), because I wasn't sure what it was designed for outside of being a "modern KaBar". I have no intention of getting in a knife fight, and didn't like some of the design "features" like the hollow ground blade and fuller.

I ended up buying one anyway. It felt surprisingly good in the hand, and due to the LB treatment - it was light for a nearly 8" Busse product.

HOWEVER, when comparing it to my SARSquatch, NMSFNO, SFNO, ASH-1 (0.1875 and 0.22) it really didn't compare.

I think its popular because its a nearly 8" INFI for under $400, and more importantly because some character in a zombie movie apparently used one. [insert puking icon here]

The knife itself is probably useful for issue to an infantryman. Its light for its size, designed with fighting in mind, and made of the best "hard use" knife steel available. Having said that, I think there are A LOT of designs better suited to a non-infantryman who wants a: general purpose; or survival; or hunting; or camping knife.

Thanks Adam. I've just sent him a message asking about cost and turn around time.

Did you send him a pm at BF or email him? He rarely logs in to BF anymore. I can find his email if you'd like.

I sent it via his website.

Great! He's a true professional.

I've been reading about his work (and looking at it) for quite a long time. Also Ban's stuff.

Thanks for the info!

I'm still resisting...

MM

OK, Staying with my S6 on this. I DO wish it didn't have such a pointy (that's a technical term ya know) as I feel it could break off just the smallest portion of the tip. Personally I like a little LESS pointy tip for a blade like this, more along the tip profile of the S5. BUT other than that the S6 is a pretty good one for this kind of "What If".

Now I guess I have to find another Pouch for one of my all weather survival blankets, a canteen and the aforementioned S6 along with a small FAK and another Sawyer mini-filter and put it all together on one of my nylon "Quick release" nylon belts.

Oh and I need to probably add one of my Swamp Wardens.

It HAS to be pointy!

https://youtu.be/dmLh1sSFs8Y

We will see how the ASH1 fits into this for me. MIGHT be exactly what I am looking for. I REALLY don't want to mess up the S6 as it was the first model Dan made and they are oh so hard to get.

It's a very nice S6 indeed!

Yes it is. Got into it right from a good dog.

I've come to believe there isn't a perfect survival knife, because survival isn't perfect. There are too many variables to consider. I think most of us instantly think "wilderness survival" when this topic is broached, but in realty survival can be required any where and at any time.

This leads me to think we all need two layers of knives:

Everywhere Everyday Carry (EEC) = Stout 3-1/2 to 4" folder or skeleton necker type fixed blade

Durable Fixed Blade (DFB) = 5 to 8" fixed blade.

I use to preach the Trifecta concept, but have been shifting toward "lighter is better" (allows you to move swiftly and more safely). This means the selection of the DFB is more difficult, because I favor a 5" knife AND 8" knife.

I've encountered field tasks that are impossible for a 5" and nearly impossible for an 8".

Ultimately, for now I've settled on a Swamp Warden and NMSFNO.

My wife uses a Spyderco Endura4 FFG and a Skinny ASH.

I have a RMD on my "fighting belt", but might ditch it if I have wear my emergency ruck containing the other two knives.

I'm with ya on this Gary, mostly anyway. I also like the "Trifecta" for this, a small (3-3.5 inch), medium (4.5-6 inch) and a large (to ME 7-and over) blade.

1. I agree with the EEC folder. Right now it's my Emerson Specwar. But I will alternate it out with my CR Umnumzaan. And SOMETIMES my Small Sebbie or my Ontario Rat II folder. (Yes, I STILL would have my beloved Karambit)

2. The EFB (Everyday Fixed Blade), Yeah this is a tough one. Right now I think I would still say my S5. To me it is the perfect length and thickness (3/16) for a knife this size. Plus I really like the blade shape and the Mudder handle is fantastic. That being said, my S6 is surprisingly nimble for a 6.5 inch long .250 inch thick blade, specially if you choke up and use the choil.

3. The LFB (Large Fixed Blade) This could be anywhere from my 7.5 inch 911 all the way to the BWM. I don't think I would want the 1311 now although it might be a better choice being several inches longer. Tough Decision. AND I really expect my "Chopper" preference to change to the LCH (Lean Chop House) once I get it.

4. DFB (Detail Fixed Blade) I think would still be my Muppy. This is a FANTASTIC blade shape and size and with the Mudder handle you can get a really good "Working" grip on it.


NOW, that being said IF I was restricting myself to just two blades...
1. IF going with a folder for the smaller blade, probably my GTI Folder. If you guys haven't taken a look at this thing, you really need to. This thing is built "Ford Tough". IF going the a smaller fixed blade, the Muppy.

2. Now this is a REAL tough one. For all around (Woods survival AND urban), probably my 711. Yes there are better "Choppers", and better "Bushcrafters", but for a compromise, I think this is a good size. I REALLY want to say my S6 on this one, but I just feel it is a LITTLE light for a complete "Allrounder" urban AND Woods blade.

As Gary said, there is no such Wonderknife, only compromises. We can only draw upon our experiences and those of others that HAVE Been there and done that and made it through.

Well there you have it, for what it's worth. AND for what it's worth, I would give more weight to Gary's post than mine. I haven't "Been there done that" in a long time.

In the spirit of my two blade choice being the GTI folder, I think this might be my next folder buy, depending upon my finding the best price. This is the Mini.

http://www.bladehq.com/item--Kizer-Ki3416A2-Mini-Liner-Lock--27005

You ditch your Leaner Meaner Gary?

I did let it go. I'd love to see a Battle Grade SR101 Leaner. INFI is great but I only kept it in 6" and greater.

I hate even THINKING about shopping for a folder. My criteria keeps me limited to mostly just Spyderco, and only a handfull of Spydercos meet my criteria. I'm hard to shop for when it comes to knives, but I think most of us are.

Folders are tough out here because of the import laws (not possession, just Customs import regs). Many of the folders that I love the look of I can't even handle, when you do find them here even average priced blades (in the US) are expensive !! Think ZT550s selling for $400.

All that said, I have more than my share of folding blades, the Emerson A100 is a true favourite as is the ZT350. For what I use a folder for (mostly) the Buck 110FG I have had for 30 years does most of it !

I think of folders as disposable. I have a couple Spydercos, and 2 SAKs. The SAKs have never been used and are on the chopping block. I'd like to replace them with couple of Delica4 FFGs or similar. I agree with Adam...Spyderco does what I need from a folder (which is: be light to carry and sharp).

Andy will cry after reading the next statement...

I was just showing a coworker one of my original 0.22 Coated LE ASHs and noticed a nice little nick in the edge

Regarding the coated LE ASH...

I had selected this one from my horde o' ASH for testing and field carry. The little ding in the edge just makes it easier for me to take her out and beat her.

(NOTE: I am not a misogynist)

No no no.... you have clearly breached the "Care and Love" clause in the ownership contract for that .22 and you need to send it to me, where a "Forever Home" is provided to all ASH1s in need...

Just before I left for Africa I actually received two coated .22s from the Custom Shop One with Balck/Green G10 and one hand shaped black canvas. They came via Eric at Mashed Cat who did the sheaths. I received my Battle Grade ASH this week as well...now I need to convince Garth or Jerry to make me an INFI ASH in .25 as that is a sweeeeeet size !!!! I will of course still be buried with a .32 Sabre Ground ASH.

My soon to be used .22 is black with black magnum handsmoothed micarta.

I don't usually like magnum scales, but on the ASH 22 with handsmoothed finish....it is pleasing. Very pleasing indeed.

She is still sitting on my desk...longing to be out in the wilderness displaying her virtues.

Just one?















Hmmmph, I'm a little disappointed.

They have to be able to lift the box !!!