No problem.... I just want to see you win the Beer out-right next time - and then see photos with BIG chips flying in the air. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />.
I would be happy to offer to sharpen if you can't reach Mayo. Just send me enough to cover postage back... funds are tight, but I have stuff to sharpen with. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> I still want to upgrade my sharpening equipment, but keep having to put it all on hold as Jerry keeps releasing stuff that my addiction can't resist. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/paperbag.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />

If you can't reach Mayo, Ken Onion lives in Hawaii somewhere to. I LOVE his stuff. But, those guys are BIG time custom makers with custom knives selling for multiple thousands. I don't know how likely they are to offer sharpening services to everybody (?????).... good luck with that. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crossfingers.gif" alt="" />





That will hinder progress. Bounce or give in the wood absorbs force - creating loss in transfer of force = less cutting efficiency. But, sounds like you know that.




Again, from the pics, it appears you have the general idea. But, you might pick up a few more tips with some research. There are some tricks and there are techniques that are more efficient than others. Practice helps because knowing how a blade goes through various materials makes a difference - such as softer wood vs harder wood. Also, some tools will obviously cut different than others. So, for maximum efficiency per tool, cut placement is something that can vary a bit to achieve maximum chip removal.

Chip removal is HUGE. If the chips don't clear properly with each swing, you have to cut through them again = wasted energy and swings.

It is hard to type up explicitly good info and technique. It would take a long time. But, the TRUE professionals on chopping technique are those who compete with axes.

There is most likely WAY more worthy information on how to chop properly with an axe than with a knife. The techniques are the exact same, just on a smaller scale to proportionately match the lesser chopping power of a knife vs. an axe.

It is probably worth pointing out that techniques for chopping on a 2x4 are different from chopping larger logs (either with knife or axe.)
Chopping a 2x4 is more simple as alternating angles and cut placement in distance from side to side is about the extent of it.
Whereas with larger logs, you would work forward and back along the log as well as working the distance from side to side to achieve best chip removal. If you look up some videos for log chopping compititions, notice (look carefully) how they work up and down the log. Each chop is pretty specific. They don't just hack away alternating angles.

How to move the cuts around and across the wood to "match" the blades cutting abilities is something that requires practice and feel for different woods.

I would recommend searching for techniques related to axe chopping.

And possibly VERY worthy of your time is to search videos through "Google Videos" - which will cover videos at YouTube along with many other video options. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

Lumberjack compititions, chopping competitions, etc.

What the professional competition guys can do is freakin amazing and much easier to appreciate when you have done a fair amount of chopping yourself to realize how amazing what they do is. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif" alt="" />

Their axes are pretty dang awesome too. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif" alt="" />


I hate to keep harping on edge quality, but it is a HUGE thing for me. Busse makes AWESOME knives, I like Busse and kin knife steel about as much as any in the industry. But, good edges are just REQUIRED to have good cutting results.

Busse started shipping most INFI blades with Shaving Sharp Sheets or whatever they are called. But, you can make a poorly profiled blade shave and it still not cut many materials worth a flip.

Shaving paper and hairs only require the VERY edge be sharp and a 50 degree edge can be made to sharp. But, while you don't want to thin a blade too much as it will become too prone to chip, roll or deform, ALL Busse and kin steel is VERY capable of MUCH thinner edges than come from the factory. Factory edges are pretty well suited for busting concrete still - IMO. Actually, NO JOKE, I buy Masonry tools at the hardware stores for chiseling concrete with more acute angles than most of my Busse and kin knives come with. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

Anyway.... got to run. Wife has been waiting for me to help her and I have taken too long typing for now.

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