+1

I don't hunt nearly as much as I used to. I also used to hunt a lot of squirrels and wild hogs, but mainly deer.

I also think the SS4 would be very sufficient at skinning, cleaning and processing game. Mostly depends on the game and the user.

Imaginefj mentioned certain knives not being tough enough to "pound through the pelvis". When I grew up skinning/processing/cleaning deer, we just used a hatchet for that. I personally do NOT ever use my knives to split the pelvis. Granted certain stout Busse knives will whack right through the pelvis and I know many people feel the need to cut or break the pelvis bone. But, that bone is typically much harder than wood and will chip or roll most knives quite nicely. To me, it isn't about whether my knife is tough enough to do it. It is about not wanting to sharpen out my chips and rolls out of a good edge if I can do the task with another tool. Or equally bad: now trying to skin and process game with a dull knife. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

***Further, I have found that you can clean deer "Without" breaking the pelvis bone. With a thin/sharp knife (and if being careful), you can cut the intestines out and around the pelvis without contaminating the meat. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

I don't hunt much at all anymore. But, if I did, one thing I would probably do is research online to find more tips and tricks about game processing. I assume most of us learned from our parents or similar. And while some of us may have learned some good techniques. I would bet we could all learn a little bit more from the pros who do it a LOT. Same as we learn about knives around here. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

One thing I will say about cleaning, skinning, processing game: the knives for such tasks work WAY better if their edges are VERY sharp.
Very few Busse and kin edges come sufficient for my preferences from the factory for these types of chores. .... Luckily, Busse and kin knives "Can" be sharpened and optimized by the owner to work well. Unfortunately, even if recent blades have been better, they generally still don't come so good that I don't feel I need to improve them still. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

I frequent Busse and kin knives because I love the toughness of the steel and many of the designs are very nice or at least very close to what I like - short of coatings and edges. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />
But, the "Usage" mentallity for most Busse and kin knives "Generally" appears to be more geared towards toughness "first" and survival skills more associated with chopping and prying with "Cutting" being a bit lower on the priority scale. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />
Other companies that seem to have this focus are RAT, Ka-bar and similar.

Again, luckily, there are MANY Busse and kin knives that can have their edges optimized for cutting and do VERY well once well sharpened. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

I have to concede that companies like Bark River, Fallkniven and Marbles seem to put more focus on their knife designs being used for cutting and edges well suited "From the factory" for "Hunters" and woodcraft. Their edges are "OPTIMIZED" from the factory for cutting. And Hunters need edges to "Cut" first. Chopping and prying is secondary and often just intended for specialized chopping and prying tools..... which makes sense to me.

We recently have discussed George Washington Sears. When in the woods, he carried a tool for chopping and wood-type work and a tool for game/food prep and a folder for whittling or other fine tasks. In the woods, the idea is/was not to interchange these tools and that each "blade" or edge had a specific task. And if you notice, his axe was double-bit one for tough chopping and a second for finer detail wood trimming, his Muk and his folder had two more edges = "5" specialized edges - Not one blade to do it all.
*** And this is from a guy who pushed extreme minimalizm to the max. He typically carried less than 26 pounds and 10-16 of those pounds were a canoe! ... with a significant remaining portion being rations and other minimal gear. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif" alt="" /> Shows how much he valued a variety of edged tools! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

Obviously, the number of blades and specialized edges and justifications for each person can vary. But, I agree with this general principal. Most blades are compromises at best. They tend to be good at some things and not others. IMO, it is not "Best" to try to get one knife to do everything.
Using the blade you want to prepare food with to chop fire-wood isn't ideal. Even AMAZING INFI will get dull and "significant" amounts of sharpening in the field is a PITA! Light touch-ups are all I want to deal with in the field.

So, while I often only carry one fixed knife while hiking (... but, actually probably two or three on most "Real" hikes as I often still carry a folder or two), around camp or if hunting, I would have quite a variety of knives to choose from. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

---------------

I learned how to skin and clean squirrels from my dad and learned how to skin/process deer from my dad and uncle.... Over time, I think I have learned to value what I learned from my uncle on how he used his knives more - otherwise the techniques where similar. I don't remember what brand my dad's most used skinning knife was. But, from doing a quick search, it had a VERY similar blade to the Ka-Bar Skinner, with cheap thin brass guard, stacked leather (althouth my dad's was a more simple oval handle) and with aluminum round pommel. This Ka-Bar Skinner is very similar, but has a funky shaped leather handle with finger grooves - otherwise pretty similar:



I sold my dad's in a garage sale because it was rusted to heck. I guess I am not very sentimental about some things. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" />
Anyway, it was obviously some sort of high carbon and had been poorly stored in sheath for quite a few years since it's last use prior to him passing and me finding it. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> The stacked leather was pretty bad and the brass had turned the leather sheath all kinds of nasty green. His old Buck 110 folder did the same - which had also been in it's leather sheath. You can polish the brass back pretty nice and easy. But, the leather ... not so well. Had it been in decent shape, I would have kept it. But, I honestly didn't care for it's style and didn't want to try to salvage it.

The first knife given to me when I was a kid - from my dad, for hunting, was a Buck 118.




I never gave it much thought, but there are some similarities between what he bought for me and had for himself in that both have long skinny blades with a little sweep at the tip.

Now I know a lot of hunters like this and I assume this is what my dad liked. But, I have found this is not my favorite style blade for game. If my Buck 118 had a thin blade, it might have been a decent filet knife. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> And in all fairness, I could skin and process game with it. But, it just isn't my personal favorite either.


I believe his reasons for feeling such a knife was "ideal" were probably flawed. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

I think a LOT of makers, publications and so forth advertise certain knives as "Hunter's" and "Skinners" and so forth that are not necessarily ideally suited for such specific tasks as capable of doing a variety of things decent and not doing much of anything well.

The thing is, I don't personally feel the Buck 118 was well designed for much else either.

While I like 4" + blades for most of my hiking, camping and woodcraft type uses, I also like more spear-point to shallow bellied blades for most of my NON-skinning/game processing uses.

While for game skinning and processing, I have found I actually like 4" to sub-4" blades with good bellied edges either short and tight or sweeping edge curves for skinning and processing.

But, maybe a bit of theory: Maybe my dad came more from the mentallity of 1 knife to do it all and made do with his chosen knife. My dad only had a "Single" fixed bladed hunting knife since I was a kid till he died! And I would guess that knife was older than I am. In the late 70's or so (???), he bought a Buck 112 that I saw him mainly use for task use and an old Case 3 blade folder that I never saw him carry or use. I just found it after he passed away (????).
Actually, at "Camp" for cooking and such, he just brought and used kitchen knives. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" />. He liked to cook and had a HUGE canvas Duffel bag he carried all kinds of "HEAVY" kitchen gear in. Cast iron and such. We mostly base camped and hunted out of a truck. My dad wasn't so much into hiking. Hiking for my dad was just from the truck to the deer blind and back and gear for that hike was warm clothes and a gun. Or to scout blind locations. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" />

My uncle on the other hand (my dad's older brother) had quite a few knives, but his chosen knife for skinning game was the spey blade (very small blade) on his Case folder.

While I don't use a folder to skin and process game (too messy to clean), I did learn that you don't need much blade length at all to skin game. For certain processing tasks, a bit longer works better on deer meat, but for skinning, when just using the Buck 118, I found that I was just using the tip and tip belly/sweep for most everything I did. And if you notice the Buck 118, the tip and belly are WAY out far from the handle and most of the blade was long and flat without curve. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />
Over the years, I have learned I skin game much better with a shorter blade usually 3.5" to 4.0" and I found I have a LOT more control with such a blade.

A VERY large proportion of the knives I own are more for trail/camping use and not skinning.
But, I do have a few I consider very worthy for skinning/cleaning and processing deer and other game.

Here are a few I consider to be very worthy for skinning and processing game:



They all have good edge belly curves for skinning. Blades for processing meat can vary a bit more for me.

I probably would favor the Bark River Fieldsman II first (the Barkie with guard), followed by the short Marbles - I don't remember the model. But, many of us were able to pick up those high carbon Marbles blades from DLT for $25 a while back! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" /> - Thing about the Marbles blades it that to mee both of them are great for skinning and processing and neither are good for my other uses - so very specialized IMO. Although, if I dropped the point a bit on the larger one, it would be much more versatile to me. And third would probably be that short Bark River - Mini Skinner. The Custom is a Jerry Hendrix (not Jimmie) and is very nice - although "UNFORTUNATELY" hollow grind <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbdn.gif" alt="" /> and more of a large caper and great for cleaning most any game, but I rank the others better at skinning deer.

The SS4 and the Highland Special (larger Barkie without guard) are very versatile all-rounders. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

I have been disappointed in the HCLE for it's too small handle. I wish it were better. I keep thinking maybe I will grind the grip area about 3/16" forward into the guard and create a bit more recess at the back for my little finger for more grip and that might fix it. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> But, outside of the handle, the rest of the blade and knife is highly suited for skinning and processing game IMO. It is GREAT in the choked up or pinch grip. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />
If the HCLE had a better handle, it would also be a very versatile all-rounder. And maybe my modification will improve it still... "if" I do the mod. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

IMO, the SS4 is a bit long in the normal grip. But, works and balances well for skinning and processing if choked up or in pinch grip. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

The Howling Rat has lots of belly, but a bit too tall a blade and a big longer and larger over-all for my preferences for skinning and dressing game. Even still, it would be a pretty darn worthy choice with it's shape and light, nimble balance. I just prefer the others a bit more. Maybe I would like the HR more on larger game like Elk or something (????). But, I haven't skinned an Elk yet. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" />

While I don't personally like the handles on the Swamp Rat Warden or the GW and I really don't like skelly handled knives, the blade shape and size of the two Wardens is pretty darn good for "skinning" - "IF" they didn't have sharpening choils that snag so easily. And while I criticize the HCLE's handle, I the the GW/RW have even worse handles.

I mentioned before, but the newest Hack from Blade and the recent Ganzaaa "looks" like it would be a GREAT skinner - it has a good blade shape and profile. However, it is too thick and chunky IMO. So, it coul be great "IF" it were about 0.10" - 0.15" thick and NOT 0.22" - 0.25" or whatever it is. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/doh.gif" alt="" />

I can clean a deer or small animal with most any knife, but ideally something with a 2" - 5" blade that is not too tall or too thick.

For that matter, I "Can" skin and process game with many different styles, shapes and sizes of knife. But, I have preferences for certain tasks.

I "think" a lot of people carry a larger knife with the mentallity of the larger knife being more of a multi-task tool. - Which it is.

But, for me, cleaning, skinning and processing deer or other game are different semi-specialty tasks. And I tend to justify specialized tools for certain tasks - especially for larger game like deer.

Now days, hunting deer isn't cheap. With most people paying THOUSANDS of dollars for gear and so many people even having 4-wheelers dedicated for hunting and so forth. I don't really understand why you couldn't or wouldn't have 2-3 dedicated knives for certain skinning, cleaning, processing tasks. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

I don't know about everyone else, but I have historically ALWAYS brought my game back to camp (especially deer) for skinning and processing.

For deer, I would often clean the internals where I dropped him to lighten the load for carrying/hauling to a truck trail and then tail-gate the body back to camp. Camp was typically far in Central Texas.

I generally cleaned the internals with the deer on the ground and tried to keep debris from getting on the meat.

But, we always hung our deer from a tree to skin and process. But, I have seen others wrestle around on the ground on a trash bag or similar. Looks like a big messy PITA hassle that way. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />


--------------------


I am getting carried away with stories, but the point I was trying to get at and is obvious by the HUGE variety of styles, shapes and sizes of knives called Skinners or Hunters is that there is a LARGE variety of type and game for skinning and processing and there is obviously a LARGE variety of techniques used for the process.

---------------------

Side note:

I don't mind saying one thing I hated about my Buck 118 was my inability to get it sharp. I carried a dull knife growing up and it frustrated me like crazy. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" />

I was "Taught" to use a "Good Arkansas" stone and given "ONE" of those little 2 inch pocket stones in a leather sheath. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif" alt="" />
I actually sliver cut the tip of my left index finger off while holding the stone and sharpening as a kid (taped the tip back on and it healed nicely with a round scar. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" /> )

But, getting blades sharp was a MAJOR PITA as a kid....... Thanks for the years of sharpening frustrations Dad and uncle! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />

I wasn't a stupid kid and I knew about different grits and abrasives for sanding wood, but sadly it took me quite a few years to figure out to use different grits to sharpen with. I guess I just had it "programmed" in my head that a knife was ONLY supposed to be used on a sharpening stone. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/doh.gif" alt="" />


I remember about 18-20 years ago going to a gun show and a guy there had a booth for sharpening. Any knife: $5.00. He had what I would guess I remember to be about a 2"x72" rig of some sort. I am pretty sure he had a leather belt and know I remember him using some compound on the belt. About a minute or less later, he handed me a VERY sharp knife. I think a light-bulb went off. After seeing that, it left an impression on me. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

So, as I grew older, I put more effort into learning FAST and EASY ways to sharpen and get good results.

I wish I had a computer and internet back then with Bladeforums and such to have learned much of what I know know. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/doh.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

------------------


Anyways.... I need to move on now.

.