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. . . if you took the ramp off and reduced the choil and moved the handle forward . . .
. . . you might overcome the S5's biggest drawback. It's too blade heavy.

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. . . I think you would have a much better knife than the Fallkniven F1...VERY MUCH BETTER <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

It's hard for me to conceptualize a knife that's VERY MUCH BETTER than a Fallkniven F1, especially considering where the F1 was designed to be used and what it was designed to be used for. But if you say so . . .

The reason why it would be very much better than the Fallkniven F1 is that the F1 in typical scandinavian fashion has no guard because in severe cold temperatures where hands are numb and mitts are often worn the Scandinavians adopt knife skills which never involve a push cut...they always do a pull cut...so as to avoid slipping onto the blade. If you look at Scandinavian designs of knives...the further North you go the more the grip swells at the pommel and tapers to the blade.

In military use you need the ability to do a push cut/stabbing motion with an element of safety but in Artic use you don't want a metal guard because of "cold weld" risk to your skin...the Mudder handles are a perfect compromise...you have the benefit of a hidden tang none cold weld grip which can handle both push and pull cuts safely...and if the edge is brought back to the grip as close as possible the knife can be used for fine work as effectively as using a choked choil grip.

However if you were to move the grip forward then some of the tang would be removed so I doubt you would change the balance...but the S5LE balances right on the forefinger/end of the grip and is not blade heavy anyway...infact it is a very light knife with superb balance.


JYD #75