Well here is my best way at sharpening my blades and my simple tools.

This is a method I have been using to reprofile my edges, what I do to maintain my edges is mainly strop, as you can see on two old leather belts, nothing fancy, if the edge does need work in the field, or at home I use a lansky diamond paddle (600grit) till I get a nice small burr (diamonds create a smaller burr IMO), then the 1200grit one and on to the strop. Mirror edge again.

If I can give you one piece of advice, get DMT diamond stone fine or extra fine, DIA-Folds I believe is the name (two combined), and a strop. If you dont get that mirror edge from stropping on the white compound alone, a bit of a hazy edge, go back to the fine and extra fine, and then finally green compound, increase the angle, lighter strokes to get the burr off.

Well heck, on to a post a did a while back.

I recently noticed while playing with the benchstone and a piece of plank that it seemed to be a good angle at around 5 degrees. After some measurement this is what I came up with:





Now the reason for this is due to a video done by another member on various forums.
Here is a link to his great adjustable sharpening platform:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXhrqfV5jvs

My method is very similar, except after watching videos of the Bubble Jig
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=Jp5NLNmMe2Y

I decided to incorporate something similar till I can afford the real Bubble Jig.


The secret is to get a good burr going. This is D2 steel on my Becnhmade Bone Collector profiled to 10 degrees per side.

Good burr



Edge all the way sharpened


No burr, and not hitting the entire edge: BAD!


[img]http://i840.photobucket.com/albums/zz325/geronki2/2011/P5170022-1.jpg[/img]

Then I knock the burr of with white ceramic stone of Lansky
[img]http://i840.photobucket.com/albums/zz325/geronki2/2011/P5170034.jpg[/img]

Then strop.
[img]http://i840.photobucket.com/albums/zz325/geronki2/2011/P5170035.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i840.photobucket.com/albums/zz325/geronki2/2011/P5170036.jpg[/img]

Results
[img]http://i840.photobucket.com/albums/zz325/geronki2/2011/P5170044.jpg[/img]

Under 25X times magnification
[img]http://i840.photobucket.com/albums/zz325/geronki2/2011/P5170040.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i840.photobucket.com/albums/zz325/geronki2/2011/P5170038.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i840.photobucket.com/albums/zz325/geronki2/2011/P5170048.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i840.photobucket.com/albums/zz325/geronki2/2011/P5170053.jpg[/img]

In the field I use a diamond paddle 600 grit or Lansky Turn box kit. Usually I just use the paddle and lightly knock the bur off.
[img]http://i840.photobucket.com/albums/zz325/geronki2/2011/P5180058-1.jpg[/img]

Total edge reprofiling: Can take up to 2 hours.
Edge maintenance. Less then 10 minutes to same results as above. In the field the same time. (this can vary depending on the damage to the edge and DONT STOP UNTIL YOU FEEL THE BURR)

Reasons I started with this low angle and constant low angle.
Well here is a video.
http://www.youtube.com/user/ewerstruly#p/c/299E614F6D3C94DD/6/u4rDIFFyXVk
It requires less force to cut through material.

and I read the book
The Razor Edge Book of Sharpening.
Here is a website where you can get the book.
http://www.razoredgesystems.com/products/books



DMT stones will make the process much faster IMO and of course, this is my process for my needs. I convex certain knives, but EDC and hunting knives are as thin as possible. Your needs may vary, but remember when sharpening.....GET THE BURR!

I hope this helps gun dog. It is not a perfect system, but as you can see I have gotten great results with D2, that people complain about, it just takes a bit more time with older equipment, diamonds would speed up the process considerably, so patience and practice!