I once sharpened my bayonet by fixing it to my M14, holding onto the sling, and dragging my rifle behind a moving Deuce and a half.

Man you guys are so helpful! Really thrilled at everyone's responses to such a (to you guys) simple question, thanks a million!

So ignoring the correct carbide sharpeners entirely, will this be sufficient for the task at hand? http://www.amazon.com/Norton-Economy-Abrasive-Sharpener-Combination/dp/B0068TTVN4

QUESTION 1: Will I need something in the 1k grit range?

QUESTIONS 2/3: Anything else I will need like oils? Someone mentioned a "strop", what is that???

QUESTION 4: Ray, you mentioned chromium dioxide...what's the low-down on this one? What is it, its purpose, and a recommendation?


TO CLARIFY THE PROCESS: Stroke knife vertically onto the coarse 100 grit side a few times. Then grind away on both sides of the edge until it's all even and there's no more light reflecting. This is just evening out the steel and bringing it all down to one level yes?

Once that happens I do some high angle passes on the fine 320 grit side in order to actually sharpen it?

I think I get it based on Cashmore's videos, they were quite helpful! Anything else I'm forgetting??

Not forgetting anything I can think of except USE THAT THANG!

When I get little chips like that in my blades, I just sharpen them out as I would normally sharpen a blade and keep on usin it.

Digi, maybe this will help you some.

http://www.knivesshipfree.com/knife-sharpening/

AND just to really blow your confused mind, this:

http://www.knivesshipfree.com/knife-sharpening-care/

Yes, that stone is a nice cheap entry level stone...it will cut anything and shouldn't hollow easily (form a hollow in the center from the abrasive wearing away).

1: It won't hurt, as the fine side of the norton economy stone is still actually pretty rough...see below on the clarification of the process

2. The Norton Economy stone can be used with water, but will maintain it's aggressiveness much longer if used with oil...I like mineral oil as it's cheap and smells good to me.

3. I don't use strops so I won't comment much on them...I know lots of people like them though and if used lightly (you don't want to push hard on them) they can be used for the higher angle passes.

4. Chromium dioxide is just a very fine abrasive paste you rub on the leather strop...there are many different such pastes available, some of the diamond ones are very expensive. Google strop man for some more info.

Clarification:
yes, stroke it vertically into the 100 grit side a few times (some sign of the chips may remain but other sharpenings will remove this if you don't want to grind them all the way down)

grind on both sides...switch every 10-20 strokes/scrubs...until thereis no light reflecting from the edge (this can be hard to see, but with practice should be easy)...at this point the knife should cut phonebook paper...and yes this is just keeping the steel even and thin at the edge

at this point using the fine side do one very high angle pass, VERY LIGHTLY, on each side to remove any burr and then do alternating passes on each side lightly at an angle a bit higher than what you were grinding at...5-10 per side ought with the 320 grit ought to make it very sharp

If you have a 1K grit stone or higher, you can do this instead...during the grinding stage as you are trying to get rid of the reflecting light...well as you see the line of light getting smaller switch to the 320 grit side and finish the grinding with that grit...gain until no light is reflecting

Then use the 1K for the higher angle stuff

Last thing from me: On the higher angle passes...go LIGHT...if you think you're going light, go lighter

Awesome thanks so much cashmore and everyone else!! You guys are all life savers!

I think I'm going to go simple for now and just go with sharpening stones. I'll look into strops and paste rubs for later when I figure out what I'm doing.

Now final questions:

QUESTION 1/2: Is a 1k stone absolutely necessary? If so, what is a good recommendation that won't break my wallet? (<$15-20)

QUESTION 3: What mineral oil should I use? This was in the recommended items section for the norton stone I was looking at. Is it any good? http://www.amazon.com/Norton-Sharpe...ie=UTF8&refRID=1QBQHSHDHS3F40GQ5FGC?

No problem. Keep us posted on how it goes...there is usually a bit of a learning curve.

1/2: This is a hard one...google eze-lap and dmt...I'd go for an extra fine (1200 grit)...if you look around you can probably get something for $20, but it's not absolutely necessary by any means.

3: Just get it from your local drug store...it will be in the laxative section. Or you can use baby oil too.

Digi, Welcome to the Yard my friend!

I think the rest of the dogs jumped on it and answered your questions pretty well. If I may interject, another option for you for sharpening that you may consider is paper sharpening wheels and an inexpensive bench grinder (although don't shirk learning how to sharpen on a stone, that's a skill that will serve you well the rest of your life!)

These are similar to what I purchased a few years ago: http://www.sharpeningwheels.com/new/

I dropped 35$ on a HF bench grinder and I think the wheels were 65$. After some practice, and turning a few butter knives into shaving razors, I was able to put a shave ready edge on a piece of steel nearly 1/2" thick with a 50` bevel... No joke. (it was then I learned that it's not about the degrees of the bevel, it's making the two bevels meet that makes a blade sharp.)

I think a few of the dogs also use a belt sander with high grit belts. All are great options to get your blades stupidly sharp. Just a couple suggestions for when the wallet permits

I would recommend getting alot of experience on a stone first though. It's saved my butt more than once having a small arkansas stone and an abundance of saliva when my knife simply wouldn't perform anymore. Usually those times are when I can't get to my bench grinder because I'm at a military school. In a pinch, that's all you'll ever need.