Well put Jerrwhy.

How much does a Ratweiler chopper weigh compared to a DF??

I agree, for some reason the weiler seemed to absorb more shock than the RD-7.
I think if Dan releases the Scrapper-7 and extends the tang past the grip a little bit that it could usurp the weiler.

Another thing I just thought about is the way primitive peoples hunted. There's a reason that they began to use stone points on the ends of arrows and spears. My guess is that the stone points are more efective than a firehardened spear.

Maybe that will be my next comparison. Stone points, versus fire hardened spears, versus the ratweiler lashed to the end of a stick. It's crazy that it just might work.

I'm sure the DF weighs more. How much more is the big question. I sold my DF not to long ago because it just sat there and looked pretty. It was too big a knife for my purposes. However, HornDog or someone else who has both could probably answer that.

My Dog Father has a swedge cut in the clip point and some steel removed during polishing, so it is a little lighter than standard at 20 oz. My scale shows the Ratweiler at 19 oz. But the DF has even more of a blade heavy feel than the Ratweiler. The DF is a bit "slow" in cutting the light stuff because it is hard to get enough blade speed for good machete work. It will wear you out quickly chopping through dense undergrowth as I found out last Spring. It is a better pure chopper, but less useful as an all-around knife, IMO. For an all-around knife, the Scrap Yard S6, Guard, or Hook would be a better choice. Or an S7!

I really like reviews like this. They are a great chance to look at all of the quality options out there and more importantly what everyone else sees as being important in a knife. None of us buy crappy tools so when we do a comparison, most of the time we are comparing tools that are in the top 5 in their category.

Thanks for the review Jerry.

Nice review Jerry. Thanks for sharing.

I agree. I don't really see the value and interest in tying my knife to a stick. "Especially" if it is my ONLY knife!

I haven't made any spears in about 30 years or so. But, I used to just sharpen a "GOOD" stick. Quality of the stick is in direct relation to quality of the spear!
I have never lashed my knife to a spear.
What are the advantages?

Penetration of a spear is based on sharpness and shape of the tip.
I can sharpen the spear reasonably sharp with a knife. The tip won't be as strong as a steel blade, but I don't think a spear needs to have the strength of knife steel for inline penetration into flesh. A sharpened good quality stick will penetrate flesh. I don't know that it needs to be much harder than a good piece of wood, but as Ted mentioned they can be "slightly" hardened if you heat it a little - although much more brittle. So, I am not sure about the values in heating (????).
Thickness of the piece of wood used for the spear can create plenty of variables in itself. And angle of the point.

Further, in theory, you won't be stuck in the wild with a whole bunch of knives. But, I contend that hunting for food/game with any notion of "throwing" your spear will require a handful of as many sticks as you can carry. (not just one! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> )
Maybe you can spear fish with one spear.
But, most of us are NOT going to make a one shot one kill on most any game short of an armadillo (or similar slow and stupid animal) in this country with a spear.
I think a spear might be a good back-up weapon and I might contend that the right size and shape spear would be handy for a walking stick / defensive weapon. But, you probably should be hoping for a better plan for putting meat on the table than a spear. - unless you have a good spot for spear fishing.

*** Ideally, for spear fishing, I prefer a barb (or two or three or more <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />) on my stick. Hard to create barbs into your knife.
I would think some barbs would be very beneficial for game as well!

- and be careful about chosing to throw your last stick. You may need it to finish off the game.

Big game = bigger sticks
Small game = smaller sticks

Might need a variety of sticks for unknown game. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />


But, I hear a lot of people talk about wanting hollow rivets and "Talon Holes" so they can lash their knives to a stick better.... (?????????????????????) <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

I really do like a lot of the Busse designs, but I still can't sell myself on ANY justification for the Talon Holes. The Talon Holes just push the blade away from the handle more than I prefer.


I have never actually tried throwing a spear with a knife lashed on as I have never lashed on my knife. But, I have never seen anyone mention and I have never asked: How well does a spear throw with a knife lashed on?

I assume it depends on the stick, the knife and how well lashed on the knife is. But, I mostly see picks posted where the knife is always on the side of the stick. It seems that would make the spear throw funny and wobble around (????).


To me, I "probably" wouldn't bother lashing my knife unless maybe I had a "Spare" skeleton handle knife that I could notch in the center of a compatible sized stick with just the blade exposed - maybe (???????). But, as Ted mentioned, I would have to not want to use this knife for much of anything else and I would prefer to have other knives to cover my other knife needs/chores so I don't have to dismantle my spear all the time. - Maybe (?????)

I am basing a lot of my comments on some of my experience and some just general analization based on my experience.

I am open to criticism. Like Ted, I could be missing something (????).


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good review. the only thing is for an extra couple bucks some customs can be added to the rd7 to make it better. and it would still be cheaper than the RW.

Jerr - one of the best reviews / comparisons I've ever seen - great job. I'm a big fan of the Busse family blades as well as Ranger - and I agree with your observations based on my experiences as well. My only Swamp blade is the Warden, but that RW sure looks great. Rangers are not my favorite choppers - but they arevery nice for a heavy midsized blade with a full tang and great pommel (on the new ones - a little more user friendly than the 1st gen that you have). The scrappers are amazingly comfortable and extremely tough. I'd still probably grab my Busse BATAC in a pinch, though. On chopping missions, I'll use ResC every time though!

I posted prior to seeing this post.

As I mentioned in my last post, I am not real sure of the values of hardening a spear tip with fire. I am sure it helps, but still not sure it is always needed. Depends on the wood I guess.



For defense - bear or other - I agree with having "options". To me, options would be multiple weapons = Spear(s) AND knife seperately.
As opposed to only "A" spear.

I supposed a spear could be made in such a way that the knife at the tip could be used for slashing. This might be very good with say a pack of wolves where you don't want to let go of your spear and still like some extra length. But, I think my statistical probability way of thinking would keep my knife next to me for a back-up / plan-B type option.

I have to be honest. I hope like heck I never have to fend off something like a big brown or Grizzly bear with a stick! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />




Good and valid points!


Hollow rivets in my handles don't bother me. They feel about the same as solid pins with no compromises. So, I could argue the benifits of hollow rivets in the handles.

But, I still don't like the Talon Holes! Not that Talon Holes are being discussed here. But, in the case of the Talon Holes, I feel there are compromises every time I use a knife with Talon Holes that EASILY outweigh any possible benifits. Hollow rivets should be sufficient and Talon Holes don't buy you much of anything if you have hollow rivets. Just my opinion there. Sorry if side-tracked....

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