This seems to be a pretty good comparison as well.

SR-101 is great stuff for knives. Very hard to beat IMO - except for corrosion. Keep it dry and/or protected with Ren-Wax or similar and it will be fine.

I still strip all of mine and don't have any real issues. But, I don't leave it wet.....

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Here is something from Teller Canyon Forge:

"5160, 52100 Steels
The vast majority of the non-damascus knives we make are made from new H-grade 5160 (a relatively clean chrome alloy spring steel) or E52100 (an aircraft-grade bearing steel). 5160 is also commonly used for automotive suspension springs, bumpers and floor pans. 52100 is frequently used to make cutting tools for non-ferrous materials. Good ball bearings are almost all made from 52100 while the not-so-good cheaper ones are frequently made from stainless steel.

One might, at this point, ask the question: Why aren't these steels used in making mass-produced knives whether by forging or stock-reduction? The reason 5160 and 52100 aren't (or at least shouldn't be) is that these steels only become superior knife steels when hammer-forged to shape. You can't just jam the stuff in a drop-forge or for that matter simply grind a blade from them and produce a really good quality knife. The steels only exhibit their truly outstanding qualities when forged to shape through multiple heat and forging cycles followed by multiple normalization cycles prior to differential heat treatment with three hardening and tempering cycles along with some sub-zero chilling at appropriate points in the process. The bottom line is that all of this is too labor-intensive for mass production to be practical.

Mass producers of knives don't have bladesmiths on their payrolls and stock removal doesn't involve forging and heat-cycling of the steel. The simple fact is that if you're going to mass-produce a product you want relatively few steps and little or no individual attention to each object being produced. Additionally, a desired result of mass production is relatively low product price. The process required to produce a really good knife from 5160 or 52100 is labor-intensive and not conducive to a low price."

Busse's heat treat is legendary, and may be even more involved than TCF's. When you buy a Swamp Rat, Scrap Yard, or Busse Combat, you are paying for the best knife blades in the industry. After nearly a year of testing Busse-made knives on very hard wood, I have never seriously damaged a blade.

Forging does not make steel any better ,that is just advertising hyperbole. It is the heat treating and steel itself that matters. Ed Fowler is one of the masters of 52100 and it is his heat treating process (multiple quenches) that make the difference. It is true that 52100 and 5160 are harder to deal with in big batches.
I am not sure about 52100 but 5160 is a oil hardening steel and most big companies much prefer air hardening steel. One of the reason the Spyderco Mule team knife is taking so long is Spyderco had some trouble working with the steel.

I agree with Vox ,S7 for big bowies and hard use knives. If S7 has poor edge retention though I would hate to see what qualifies as good. I have been reprofiling my
YKLE to 20 degrees and it is taking a LONG time even with a diamond sharpener.
I am really looking forward to a S7 SS4 to see how it does in a smaller thinner blade.

I love my new Swarden. It could be the ultimate Busse kin hunting knife.

If you want the best of everything thats INFI.

I don't think Vox said SR-77 had poor edge retention. Just that SR-101 and INFI are better.

Keep in mind that SR-101 and INFI are both VERY good at edge retention.
SR-77 has still shown to be good in edge retention.

There are quite a few steels that seem to me to have better edge retention than SR-77. They just tend to have to be harder and not as tough as SR-77. Often, many other steels are much harder to sharpen and get sharp initially as well.

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I am sorry ,I did not mean that Vox said S7 had poor edge retention only that had been mentioned as a weakness by others.

Over deer season I cleared many shooting lanes, and removed two 3inch dimater hardwood trees with my Dogfather. The coating barely looks scuffed, much less the edge being dulled.