looks great I like what you have done with the DM

Nice work KnifeGuy, I really like what you did with the Yard Guard.

I for some reason am Infatuated with the LE (Satin) samplings of these SY Blades!!!

Not really. I was stripping coatings off of Rats (and one Busse) and satin finishing them before Scrap Yard existed and before I ever met Vic. I have had my el-cheapo belt sander before I even knew about Swamp Rat and before I ever considered using it on knives. I probably found out about Swamp Rat about 4 years ago. I remember coming across a review of the Bog Dog and desperately wanting one - to find out they were long gone. When I found Swamp Rat, I did a lot of (possibly annoying) noob stuff and asked a bunch of questions that probably seemed repetitive to the guys who had been around. I just really wanted a Bog Dog... Then a Dog Skinner and so on.... But, like here, when new, you have already missed a bunch. I actually signed up for the forum about the time the Satin Battle Rat was released, but thought that was too expensive at the time - Live and Learn! I eventually had to have a Battle Rat and strip it myself. ... And so on.
None of my knives were coated prior to Swamp Rat. I just used my belt sander for wood working and little projects for the last 8-9 years. There were only a couple of guys who stripped some knives over on Swamp Rat prior to myself and the concept picked up a few others who got into it. I learned most of my tips about using my belt sander on knives from some of the professionals on Knifeforums and bladeforums. - Lots of research and a fair amount of practice. But, most people don't want to mess with the hassle.
Almost all of these knives are pretty rough with dimples and machine marks. It takes some practice and determination to get these looking decent.
The handles are particularly hard to work around. Res-C is actually easier in some ways than micarta, but you have to be careful not to hit the Res-C with the belts. The belts will cut into the handles. If you look carefully enough, there are some cut marks in a few spots on some of my Res-C handles. Micarta is better in that you can actually sand the micarta, but worse in that there are exposed tangs, exposed pommels and curvy ricasso areas. I have been strongly considering removing the scales for future projects and re-installing them after. I have some research notes about how to go about this with micarta or G10. But, I am not sure about Res-C. I think I can get the flared pins out easy enough just by drilling them out. And I have figured out some possibly ways to get the pins back in - just need to get some stainless tubing and experiment a little. But, I haven't found out if there is any type of epoxy in the Res-C handles (??????) - I have never asked and haven't seen anybody else ask. - Anybody know?

Vic wasn't over at the Rat Chat until after Scrap Yard.

I have honestly NEVER liked coatings. Actually, I have always DIS-liked coatings.

But, I don't think I influenced Vic either. I don't really know where Vic got influenced unless he was lurking at Rat Chat without posting (???) - But, I don't think so. I am actually curious as to how Vic found out about Scrap Yard. And a few others who I met here pretty early on that I don't recall having met or seen over at Rat Chat (???????). I might start a thread about that.

I think Vic got himself his belt sander before I ever posted any pics of stripped and satin finished Scraps here. I was pretty busy with work when the Yard first opened and wasn't able to post much in the beginning and I didn't have time to strip anything for the 1st 12 or so months of the Yard's existance. I was just stock-piling for a while there.

Pre - Scrap Yard stripped knives:

Battle Rat
Camp Tramp
Howling Rat - 2nd Gen.
Desert Jack
Busse - SJTACT

Post - Scrap Yard stripped Rats:

HRLM
RMD
Maybe a Chopweiler some day....

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All coated blades can be stripped. The coating is the easy part to get off - takes about 10 minutes with epoxy/paint remover. I use a gel type. Comes in a steel can made by different brands and can be found in the paint areas of most hardware stores. Brush on, let sit about 5-10 minutes and the coating bubbles off. Scrape off mess with putty knife.

A decent "user" finish can be had with just steel wool or SOS or 3m abrasive pads or similar. But, this will leave behind a bunch of Busse dimples and machine marks. Busse leaves those under the coatings <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif" alt="" />

The real chore is getting the dimples and machine marks off of the blades. I have to recommend a belt sander for this as the best tool for the job. But, I have to recommend caution, practice, research and patience when using this tool on fine knives. Without practice, patience and know-how, you can make a mess out of your knives!

I still inevitably do a LOT of hand finishing on my blades after I use my belt sander, but to each their own.

Here are a few links if you are interested in getting started (say picking up a S6CG and stripping to make your own LE - However, the Yard Guard and Yard Hooks are highly under-rated and can be had at good prices. If you don't like the "Hook" and are planning to strip anyway, the "Hook" can be ground off. But, it will take some time to grind it off!):

If you are going to use a belt sander, you really should practice on "Cheap" junk steel on a belt sander before putting nice blades up on a sander. And don't over-heat your blades! You will mess up the heat-treatment (tempering).

Stripping My Howler

Best way to strip coating?

How does a stripped SwampRat do?



There are MANY more threads on the subject.....

Good luck.

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I would be surprised if there wasn't. I suspect they are profiled after put on the blade rather than completed and then slid into place. I have been wrong before though. I bet Dan would rehandle them for a fee if asked. A stripped yard hook with mudder handles would rock.

Very nice work, knifeguy. Those are some pretty scrappers!

I don't know what you mean about "profiled after put on the blade ... ?????

I am pretty confident the Res-C handles are a "pre" molded component that are "slid" onto the blade and then secured with the flared pin. It could be done with or without epoxy. I just have never seen indication of whether epoxy was used.

I am not sure why, I was under the impression that they were installed as a solid block of Res-C and then profiled (or shaped) once on the blade. It makes much more sense that they are premolded. The flared pins can be bought from Jantz Knife Supply. If the handles are premolded I wonder if you could just purchase one and slide it on?

It would be interesting to have Dan clarify this, I thought they were molded onto the blade.