'Splain please, what is it, and why?

Thanks-

A "zero edge" has no secondary edge bevel, but is either flat or convex ground from the spine all the way to the final edge.

Apprentice,
In theory a zero edge should make the ultimate slicer since it has such a low cutting resistance from the edge of the blade up to the spine. The tradeoff is the edge area has less metal to support the cutting edge.

Hmmm, ok.

Pics would be great if available, or a link to some examples.

Maybe not the best pics, but if you go to the Scrap Yard website and look at the knives, scroll down to the S6 and S6LE. The S6LE has a zero edge. I don't have any knives with a zero edge. http://www.scrapyardknives.com/knives.htm

Thanks for the insight here, it was making me kinda crazy not knowing.

The thing about a zero edge is, once you sharpen it, unless you sharpen the whole side of the blade, it is no longer a true zero edge. This just isn't practical for most people, so eventually they get a slight secondary bevel. It really doesn't hurt anything. They still cut well enough.

actually vic, if you did convex sharpening, you could just lay the knife on its side when you sharpen (if you use the sandpaper/mouspad method) and it won't create much of a secondary bevel, but I guess it still would a little.

it would scratch the heck out of the satin finish though
the only zero beveled blade I can think of that I own is my straight razor and I strop that after each use

While not a quite a true "zero edge" a nearly full convex edge is visible on this Bravo-1 from where the grind starts near the top all the way to the bottom. To maintain this same edge I would need to sharpen it from near the top every time with a medium that approximates the same curve. A slack belt is the easiest way to do this. That is what made in the first place. But that means removing steel from a lot of the blade each time I sharpen it. I will likely not do that, but start a secondary convex bevel somewhat closer to the final edge. It really cuts well. On the YKLE beneath it, you see a definite secondary edge bevel. I have since reprofiled the YKLE to a thinner edge with a narrower angle.

yeah, the bravo one can be sharpened easiest with a piece of cardboard and stropping compound, and it wouldn't scratch the cation that much either.
I guess it would eventually create a secondary bevel though.

Vic, have I ever told you that you are a grind wizard <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />
darn thats a pretty edge, I'm sick of doin it by hand
I need a belt sander

I just ordered a STR8 edge razor myself.

I have a zero edge on my SS4 and it is starting to get a secondary bevel and even has a couple little chips. It still cuts like a dream though. I left it a rough satin so when I do sharpen the whole bevel it does not take much to clean her up.
Usually only a quick hand sanding.

much better shave, I started doing it because it has less irratation which is important in avoiding pimples
takes alittle time to get the hang of it though

acne and razors don't mix.

ha!
like I know, it's be some day when I need to shave.
<img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

I will use a 15 micron finishing belt on the Bravo-1. It will begin to get a mirror like polish from the edge and fade to satin toward the top. It will still be convex, but over time a slight secondary bevel will develop unless I do it from the top all the way down. This method is very easy once you get a little practice, and it removes very little steel in the process.

You can still do a lot by hand. I have a nice 1/42 norton belt grinder and I still do a lot by hand just because it is relaxing and you are less likely to make a mistake. They are nice for big reprofiling jobs but there is nothing you can do with a grinder that you can't do by hand.

Yep.