yes emf, "flamed" is the correct term, but very little of that goes on here in the yard. Thats why i love it! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> I happen to agree with you, but thats just our opinions.

As for using our folders like fixed blade, i plead guilty. We use our folders hard. Not to go mall-ninja on you or anything, but here's my mind-set: The term "survival knife" does not describe a specific type of tool, its simply whatever knife you happen to have in a survival situation. With that in mind, I have folders with me 80% of the time, and fixed blades with me 20% of the time. Judging solely by statistical probability, my folders are the true survival knives, because they have an 80% chance of being the only tool I have on hand if something goes wrong. Therefore, I feel that it is necessary to have a strong, dependable folder that you can bet your life on. Why else would knives like striders, ZT's, Hinderer's, Emersons, or other exist? As for buck, everyone has their own opinions on different companies, but thanks for the recommendation. I'll look into reviews, etc.

they make a buck 110 out of s30v also
its from cabela's for about $60 if your interested
regular one in 420hc run at $32
they are plain jane but tough as nails

an s30v 110 sounds pretty awesome!
classic style with a new super steel.

but still, how is cutting wood using a knife as a fixed blade?
okay, I could see if it was something on the construction that broke, that would be pretty much because he was batoning.
if its the knife blade that chips, it has to do with the steel and idk how cutting wood an inch in diameter is using a folder as a fixed blade.
for me, if anything should fail doing that it would be the lock or something.
but the blade having a huge chunk taken out of it?!
come on, I know you're a fan of griptilian but, they're not doing something right somewhere.
a good knife though I'm sure.

and yeah, it was a buck 110. (I've broken other lockbacks too though, mosttly cause I was a kid and wasn't easy on my knives. I'm just glad I still have all my fingers.)

and your excused.
<img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

the edge on griptilians are very thin, they have high hollow grinds that are very thin
he was not cutting wood he said he was batoning it, I hope you know the difference
when batoning you compress the blade edge and because the blade edge is so thin the pressure does not have enough room too disperse
that combined with the blade that is hardened to about 62rc for edge holding and you get edge falure
griptilians are made for sliceing not batoning
you cannot expect a knife for edc and self defense to do work like a fixed blade
they are different animals

Macs right about the BM heat treat for 154 cm on the grips. The thing is way to hard and brittle. For some odd reason, it loses an edge quite quickly and is a b**** to sharpen. Actually it ain't odd at all, it's the heat treat.

But, NOB it's like the most insanely sharp knife out there. It is spooky spooky sharp fresh from the factory.

Cloaks definitely right about our view of "survival knives." Survival = EDC. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> (well at least that's how I see it) But when we go into the wilderness... what do we have? ... like a bunch of fix blades and our folders? Right.... I think we can survive.

Now the best folders that we have are the ZT 0200 and the Rukus. Cloak's 0200 is just a recurve workhorse (he can go into more detail, as that is his knife). I've used my Rukus pretty extensively, including throwing, chopping, and batoning.

I don't include the SOCOM elite 'cuz it's kind of rare and so dang pretty. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> (though we have used for cutting, including serrations, and the thing just won't lose it's edge. Course, if I do happen to chip the edge or break it, I'm gonna be one mad mongrel!!!)

you guys should go with 110's or a douk douk
http://www.garrettwade.com/jump.jsp?itemType=PRODUCT&itemID=107981
they are easy to sharpen and have wicked geometry, cheap to replace also
and strength is not a problem, just take a rock or hammer and pound it on the handle and you have a fixed blade

Mac got it right. Very thin grind, high hardness steel, a good knot in the wood and major force = chipped out. You can conclude the Grip won't compete with a fixed blade for batoning and you'd be right. Sorry it happened.

An alternative skill that might be interesting to try is cutting/shaping wedges to do the splitting while batoning. If you master wedges you can split darn near anything with a small knife! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

I did some batoning with my Benchmade Dejavoo, and no harm was done, but if I'm going into the boonies I WILL have a fixed blade. I just don't consider any folder a hard use knife, and I consider batoning hard use.

unless I'm mistaken, batoning is a way of cutting...
and the edge is hard and brittle, thats just it... a bad heat treat.
I've used knives with VERY thin edges to baton and never did anything like that happen.
I mean... some were cheap knives and probably 440c and they held up.

I guess I don't know about all the compression that goes one when batoning (as far as batonning to split wood goes) because I don't think much stress is on the blade edge, if anything I think the abuse is form the wood being like a fulcrum and the lock or blade failing. (failing as in breaking in half)
other than that, if your going with the grain of the wood and you don't hit a knot, there is not much "compression" at all... the way i see it.
I'm probably wrong, but... just something to think about.

and those little douk knives looks awesome!
and solid.
and affordable.
<img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />
nice.

and I do understand that grips are little slicers, but still...

Batoning is not a form of cutting.
Batoning is forcing the blade edge through the wood with a baton to split it.
Again, two different things.
There is also the median, a hard wood for you to baton might be easy for them.
Jersey woods are different then Washington woods.
A bad heat treat is incorrect. A hard edge does not mean a bad heat treat. The blades are heat treated to around rc62, thats combined with the thin edge and the pressure of batoning.
Think of it this way. Take your tall brunette hottie with big brown eyes, she weighs around 115lbs right.
Well if you put her in heels with the heels having a 1/4in surface area on the bottom she is putting 460lbs of pressure on the floor under each foot.
It may not seem like alot of pressure but it is.

The lock didnt break so why are you talking about it?
Those cheap 440c blades were probly not heat treated.
Douk douks are sweet, you need one bro <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

I still see it as a way of cutting. splitting, I think is cutting.
but besides that...

I guess "bad" heat treat isn't quite the word for it. but i don't see wood as a very hard medium and I just don't think if your going with the grain of it that there is even much compression on the blade.
but I guess it depends.

and as far as the wood goes... he never really said what kind and if it was really hard wood I think he would have mentioned it.

okay... so, if you took a log and layed it sideways and batoned through it that way (like you would to bring a small tree down) I think that theory about compression certainly applies.

I'm talking about the lock and stuff because, I just said if anything thats what I would expect to fail, and thats why batoning isn't normally done with folders.

I just think a really hard brittle edge has almost no beneftis. it MAY hold an edge longer, but if you can't even split wood with it, thats annoying.

You still dont see my point.

Wood can be a hard medium as there is quartz in its. Thats why satin finished blades get scratched when chopping or cutting.

Wood is a natural thing, its grain does not run perfectly up-down. There are knots etc.
Knots are very hard to get through.

Griptilians do not have a extremely hard edge. The have a hard, thin edge for cutting. Again two different knives with two different purposes.
Nearly every folder would have this happen to it if you batoned with it.

What folders do you have, would you baton with it?