I don't know where along the belt you usually hold the knife, but try doing it about three inches below the top pulley, and don't be afraid to put a little pressure into the belt. Just be sure to keep the blade moving, don't stop and stay in one place. Try to make your passes in one fluid motion.

Also, as Horn Dog said, try just using a good strop with proper technique to keep your edges in good shape. If they get a little beyond the strop being able to bring them back, I think the 15 micron belt is a good one for resharpening for once you have your profile like you want it.

Always remember the blade is going to heat up faster with the finer grit belts than it is with the coarser ones, so keep that blade moving and don't make a bunch of passes without dipping it in the water <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />. Do not wait until it is HOT before giving it a dunk.

There's alot of great info here. I would just add that, when using cheap belts (Home Depot Alum. Ox.) on the 1"x30 grinder, it is best to dry the knife after each successive water cooling bath (at least the side facing the grinder), in my experience. I'm not sure if it loads up the belt or what, but they become much less efficient. I've also seen this in the ceramic alumina belts, but not to the same extent.

Before you think it's hot, dunk it. When in doubt, dunk it. ...It's alot easier to work with a cool knife (pun welcome) than it is to explain to the wife why you need a new one. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Ploarbare,

I don't really ever get a final result in one pass - not even when just trying to touch up a previously highly sharp / well convexed/profiled knife that just needs a touch-up.

When just touching up a knife, I still tend to just use a very fine grit and pass about 3-4 times per side and then 2 each, 1 each or similar till how I want it.

When reprofiling, I use more pressure. But, personally, when fine tuning I back off on pressure more and more till I am just lightly grinding. But, that is just me. I can't speak for everyone else. I am sure with different equipment, different belts/grits, different knives (sizes and hardness), etc. techniques could very. Plus, there is often more than one way to do something. I was never taught. I read, practiced and experimented.

If a knife needs a lot of work, it can take a LOT more passes.

I think it is possible to round over an edge. But, not always from pressure. Tightness of belts and angle of blade can be a factor.

Watch out on your tips. A VERY common error is to over-grind the tips. With the wrong technique on certain blade shapes, you can severely alter the tip's shape if you over-grind it - and it can require a LOT of regrinding to fix. So, just watch out for that!!!



I would like to be able to help you on the videos, but I don't have a video camera/recorder.

However, BrianA. made and posted a link to some of the best sharpening videos I have seen at the bottom of page 1.

See: The Backyard Bushman - Convex Knife Sharpening with a Belt Sander - By BrianA. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

.

+1





+1

But, there are some similar fine grit belts or even better, leather belts loaded with fine honing compounds.

I believe I have posted some info and links somewhere above with more info about honing compounds. These are essential for decent results with a leather strop (IMO).

Some common compounds are black, green, white and pink.

There doesn't seem to be a clear consensus on what grits they are. But, to me (and I am generally guessing here!!!):

Black seems to be around 400-600 grit (???)
Green seems to be around 800-1000 (???)
White seems to be around 1200-2000 (????)
Pink seems to be around 2500 +/- (????)


Again, just guessing bases on what I have seen. But, on a power tool like a belt sander, each grit will provide much faster results than compared to a manual strop.


**** Good quality belts make a big difference. The cheap ones from the hardware store "will" get a lot done. But, once you use good quality belts designed for use on "hardened" steel, you will notice a big difference.

You should know that most of the belts sold at hardware stores are intended for use on "wood". However, in a pinch, they will still work on knives. Just not as efficiently.

**** One little tip I believe I read on some other forum posted by a knife-maker (????). I can't remember who or when, but I have tried it with great results:

If you don't have a fine grit/micron belt, try taking an older belt, turn it inside-out and use the back cloth mesh of the belt to sharpen with. I did not have much success with the backing dry. But, I put some white compound on the back (green or black would work as well - just green and black are more coarse). The white compound on the backing/mesh of an old belt will give you a mirror polish. The right light touch will give you hair-whittling edges! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />


******* For the record, while you can shape and sharpen edges with GREAT results by grinding edge first into the belts - as mentioned by Vic, DON'T grind edge first into the back of a belt. The backs of the belts have the seams too easily exposed for the blades edges. The edges will pretty much "instantly" cut through the seam and blow your belt. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" />

I have blown/cut a few belts now. I have yet to be hurt by that, but I HAVE to assume it could be very possible - especially considering holding a SHARP knife. So, I try to avoid it and make sure I always have a secure grip on my knife. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" /> I don't want a knife ripped from my hand and slung anywhere. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" />

As always, be careful with power tools and sharp blades..... ANY power tool with sharp blades. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

---------------------


I just checked and some of my links have changed.

For some more strop compound info:



Bark River Compounds @ <a href="http://www.dlttradingcompany.com" target="_blank">http://www.dlttradingcompany.com[/url]</a>

http://www.japaneseknifesharpeningstore.com

http://www.classicshaving.com


I haven't tried them yet, but I am very interested in trying some of those diamond pastes at .25 micron and .50 micron. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />


I don't know how "Grit" compares to "micron". (????)

If anyone has a chart/comparison, I would love to see it posted. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crossfingers.gif" alt="" />

.

Thanks for the tips - I'm going to practice some more on the cheapo knives and refine the technique a bit. I'm still working on figuring out edge angles (I feel like mine are kind of obtuse, but they seem to work reasonable enough).

Knifeguy - am I correct in reading that you're taking 3 to 4 passes on the touch ups per side in order to go over the full height of the edge? If so, that makes me feel a bit better. The sad thing is, I don't have any cheap 1/4" thick knives to practice reprofiling on (the closest would be the DMDC).

Horndog - as for stropping, I do have some leather belts from Lee Valley, but I haven't obtained any compound yet. I'll probably go with white for most use. The leather belt seems to "flap" a lot, requiring a bit of pressure to keep it from doing so.

One other issue I have is belt deflection when starting at near the choil causing an uneven gring (metal not being taken off in that region). I've watched brian's videos and have tried the "false start" method, but with variable results.

Well, off to more grinding. And working on a sheath for a yardkeeper <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

For touch ups, I seldom use the leather belt on the grinder. I use a paddle strop from KSF and green compound that came with it.

I highly recommend the green chromium oxide liquid and powder, as well as their Diamond Spray from Hand American . I have used the compounds from Bark River and just about everywhere else, and while they all work well, none of them are in the same league as the Hand American products. You really don't need the Diamond Spray unless you want to just get ridiculous with your edges, and I only use it on hand strops. The green chromium oxide liquid and powder I use together on my leather belts as well as hand strops and it is very nice!

You need to be careful with the leather belt and don't put a lot of pressure on it or you will round over your edge. If you will try working with the knife closer to a more supported area of the belt(just below top pully or above the platten if you use one) you don't get as much "flop" action in those areas.

I'll give it a go:

180 grit = 80 micron
230 grit = 60 micron
280 grit = 45 micron
320 grit = 40 micron
360 grit = 35 micron
400 grit = 30 micron
500 grit = 20 micron
600 grit = 15 micron
900 grit = 12 micron
1200 grit = 9 micron
1500 grit = 5 micron


NOTE: There are slight variations in grit/micron conversions amoung different manufacturers of abrasive products. The properties I listed above will be very close for the most common seen in the US.

well, i suck at sharpening SR77 steel. I'm used to sharpening carbon steel. I can get any of my other knives hair popping sharp, but this SOD is stumping me. Part of it i think, is i want hair popping sharp, but i use the knife as a chopper so maybe a more blunt edge is better.

My SODLE came reasonably sharp, but I like a more acute convex edge. This edge is still plenty strong for chopping wood (not concrete) and slices quite well. I use a belt sander. It can be done. We have the technology.

Well I think my EZE Sharp might be sold so I am looking at the belt sanders locally. I believe lowes has the Deltas. There are several belt sanders out at a shop of my dads but it is a decent drive and I would like to have a decent set up at home instead of driving out there all the time.

I've cleared a spot in the garage so I'm half way there.

Thank all of you guys for taking the time to post this great info.

Okay, the EZE Sharp was great but now its sold. So I called Lowes and they no longer carry the Delta 1 x 42 belt sanders. I called Home Depot and they had 4 x 3? belt sanders. Harbour Freight doesn't carry anything I think I am going to want. Sears has some belt sanders? Anyone know about them?