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Re: INFI and SR-77 [Re: Horn Dog] #242576 09/08/08 04:09 PM
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KnifeGuy Offline
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I was very glad when Busse came out with the CE versions. I'd like to see that idea expanded to SYKCO and the Swamp.


+1 .... EXCEPT for the Fugly dimples and pits. No thanks on that part. If I am not re-grinding profiles, I am grinding out dimples and pits. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif" alt="" />



Quote
The best knife steel on earth still won't cut if it is dull.


+1


JYD #39 I prefer "SATIN" blades!!!
Post deleted by Private Klink [Re: KnifeGuy] #242577 09/08/08 04:51 PM
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Re: INFI and SR-77 #242578 09/08/08 05:06 PM
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It is a lot of work. I think that Skinny ASH1 I did will be the last Busse I do that on. And I didn't even try to remove them from the choil or pommel. From now on, the dimples can just stay there! If they weren't so expensive, I'd just buy LE versions.


Horned, dangerous, and off my medication.
Re: INFI and SR-77 [Re: Horn Dog] #242579 09/08/08 05:26 PM
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From my personal experience, I agree with unsub.
my sr77 (dfle) bends easier than say the... 5160 (my ranger)
from what I can tell, but sr77 will bend a lot further. (although the tang may have something to do with that)


JYD number 52.
Re: INFI and SR-77 [Re: Horn Dog] #242580 09/08/08 05:27 PM
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Since I am relatively new to Busses, I was not aware when INFI came out and I sometimes ask questions of the old Busse fans about it. I have only been on the internet since about 2005 or so. Most of my knives were the ones commonly available from catalogs like BQM, Cold Steel, or SMKW. I bought some of the early RTAKs and Ranger knives. Cold Steel was my intro into "high performance" knives with their Carbon V, which turned out to be a common Chrome-Vanadium cutlery steel with a special heat treat done by Camillus. I am no steel expert by any stretch of the imagination, but I have used a lot of knives for a lot of years. I have been pleased with the performance of all the Busse kin knives I have purchased, and my only "complaint" is that they sometimes require quite a bit of edge work to bring out that performance. I was very glad when Busse came out with the CE versions. I'd like to see that idea expanded to SYKCO and the Swamp. The best knife steel on earth still won't cut if it is dull.


When chopping, having a sharp edge isnt what cuts, isnt it the brute force of the hack that makes the cut... FOr instance, take one of the Nuclear Ice picks... they are not sharp, but the force behind the stab is what makes it break skin or whatever you are hitting. Am I way off here? Someone set me straight... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/doh.gif" alt="" />


JYD #59 1LT Clark Tucker OD, Platoon LDR US Army
Re: INFI and SR-77 [Re: Horn Dog] #242581 09/08/08 05:31 PM
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…I was very glad when Busse came out with the CE versions…

What is the CE version?

Re: INFI and SR-77 [Re: bidon] #242582 09/08/08 05:43 PM
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…I was very glad when Busse came out with the CE versions…

What is the CE version?

They are unpainted and unfinished, but have a sharp convex edge. I think they were called "Competition finish" or edition or grade or some such. Here is the blade of the Sarsquatch CE.

[Linked Image from i173.photobucket.com]

Last edited by Horn Dog; 09/08/08 05:45 PM.

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Re: INFI and SR-77 [Re: bidon] #242583 09/08/08 05:47 PM
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... brute force is nothing without a good edge/geometry. (both are needed, but I think if a chopper gets a little dull, it won't be noticed too much??? I guess it depends on the knife, an fbm may chop fine with a "duller" edge, but some other knives my get their chopping abilities more from a good edge.)
thats why there are light knives that can perform very well at chopping.

sure, even a dull fbm would chop, but I think you are a little off.

then again, I'm no expert....

at all.
<img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />


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Re: INFI and SR-77 [Re: reconseed] #242584 09/08/08 06:02 PM
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When chopping, having a sharp edge isnt what cuts, isnt it the brute force of the hack that makes the cut... FOr instance, take one of the Nuclear Ice picks... they are not sharp, but the force behind the stab is what makes it break skin or whatever you are hitting. Am I way off here? Someone set me straight... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/doh.gif" alt="" />

Having a sharp edge on a chopper DOES improve it's ability to chop by a large margain. You take a dull chopper or axe out and try to hack your way through some hardwood and it isn't going to work very well even if Paul Bunyan is swinging it. Now put a proper edge on that same chopper or axe and go give it another try and you will be surprised at the difference. Also, it isn't just about being sharp, it has just as much to do with proper edge geometry for the task at hand. An edge set up for chopping should be very different from an edge set up for slicing and doing food prep.

In your ice pick example you must remember that you are not "slicing" or "cutting" anything, instead you are trying to pierce, bust or break apart. If the ice pick had a sharpened point point it would probably work better as well depending on what your intended purpose was.


"Greater love hath no man than this, that a man lay down his life for his friends." John 15:13
Re: INFI and SR-77 [Re: Tolly] #242585 09/08/08 06:21 PM
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The edge makes a huge difference. I wouldn't spend so much time getting my choppers sharp it didn't matter. When I do comparisons I try to have equal edges on the knives as far as is possible so I am evaluating the knife and not the edge. The convex edges seem to do best in chopping. The BRKT Golok chops great and only weighs 17 oz. That full convex edge bites deep but doesn't stick in the wood like some other profiles. That is why I put nice convex edges on all my choppers.


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Re: INFI and SR-77 [Re: reconseed] #242586 09/08/08 06:22 PM
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When chopping, having a sharp edge isnt what cuts, isnt it the brute force of the hack that makes the cut... FOr instance, take one of the Nuclear Ice picks... they are not sharp, but the force behind the stab is what makes it break skin or whatever you are hitting. Am I way off here? Someone set me straight... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/doh.gif" alt="" />


You are definitely WAY "off". - Sorry. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/doh.gif" alt="" />

You need to take same sized blades with same mass and go chop some similar wood. Try some clean (no knot) 2"x4"'s for consistancy. Use one with a Very sharp and well profiled blade vs. an obtuse dull blade.

Sharp and properly profiled blades is JUST as important in chopping as in slicing with kitchen knives. And JUST as noticable.

With enough "force", you can drive a blunt hammer through flesh. Similarly, with enough force, you can drive the dull back spine through wood when chopping.

I could cut down a tree with a big dull round piece of pipe .... But, a sharp blade (with reasonably toughness and geometry) will ALWAYS be more efficient.

However, the better the edge profile and the sharper the edge, the better ANY knife will cut (or penetrate) through ANY material.

The only problem would be if the edge was so acute that the edge breaks and your tool looses ability to continue performing at optimal level. Or if the steel is just not strong/tough enough to maintain it's edge.

Edge profile / sharpness vs. strength/toughness of steel vs. type of cutting and forces against the blade is a "balancing" act.

Ideally, you want a blade to be as sharp and thin as possible without breaking during use. Reduced drag is better as well.

---------

However, sometimes "optimal" sharpness for cutting and or penetration might not the goal.


Consider that with a Nuclear Ice Pick, it really doesn't take much force to penetrate into flesh - "Because" flesh is soft and easy to penetrate AND because the blade is not very thick. So, if you "can" penetrate a "dull" pick into flesh and your goal is for more damage and not so much concern about "ease" of penetration, the dull might actually have some advantages. Depends on what you are trying to achieve.

A sharp needle can penetrate flesh VERY easily, but does very little damage. A dull Railroad spike would do more damage, but wouldn't penetrate nearly as easily.

If you want to "BUST" up concrete, sometimes a wrecking ball or hammer "can" be more effective. Sometimes not. If there is sufficient reinforcement behind the concrete, your wrecking ball or hammer might not penetrate and you might need something more pointed with sufficient mass and or force behind it to create penetration.

Wrecking balls work well on sides of buildings.

Concrete slabs that have reinforcement of the ground underneath need better penetration - like a jackhammer.

If you want to see the difference sharpness can make on your Nuclear Ice Pick, Buy or borrow a dull "punch" of similar diameter to the shaft of your Nuclear Ice Pick and try hand punching it into a phone-book. Then try a sharp (used for ice / regular) Ice Pick.

Or compare a rock pick to a hammer by pounding into the ground.

.


JYD #39 I prefer "SATIN" blades!!!
Re: INFI and SR-77 [Re: Horn Dog] #242587 09/09/08 02:54 AM
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…I was very glad when Busse came out with the CE versions…

What is the CE version?

They are unpainted and unfinished, but have a sharp convex edge. I think they were called "Competition finish" or edition or grade or some such. Here is the blade of the Sarsquatch CE.

Thanks for the explanation and pict. That is clear. Just have to remember that now :-)

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