Hi

How do we sharpen The YK?

What angle and what methode is recommended?

I'm new to this, so baby steps is much appreciated
I have one of those Lansky Sharpening set.


Thanks

Arda,


Simple question with LONG answers.

Personally, I have never used a Lansky. So, I can't help you much there. I have used some other sharpening jigs. But, I never measured angles. I eyeball what I want.

I gave up jigs and stones a long time ago and personally MUCH prefer using my belt sander and leather strop bat for (some) final touches. I often don't even bother with the strop as I can get VERY good edges on my sander.

There is nothing wrong with the Lansky. It "Can" make some excellent edges. But, I find the jigs and stones to be very slow and tediouis. And, I personally much prefer convex edges on my knives for use.

However, there is no "One" way to sharpen. Many people have different preferences. There are more than one way to remove steel on a knives edge till it is sharp.

Regardless of technique, knowing how to use different "Grits" as needed is a big help. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />


For one thing. I am pretty confident Busse doesn't use a jig or angle guide for their edge bevels. I have seen enough edge variances from Busse to feel safe in this assumption.

So, if you insist on using the Lansky, you will have to reset angles on your knives very often. Most Busse factory edges are too obtuse IMO unless you like your knife as a pry-bar or for chopping cinder blocks..... in which case, I wouldn't waste my time with the Lansky. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

Also, if you insist on using the Lansky, you might be better served by doing some searches over on Bladeforums or Knifeforums. Unless you are a gold member, you will need to use Google or a similar type search engine to search Bladeforums as they restrict search options to paying members. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" />
You just need to go to advanced search and put bladeforums.com in the domain search field to narrow the search to that forums domain. Using a Google or similar type search engine often works better than the forums own search engine anyway. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />


I could write a lot and based on my preferred technique, but, since my preferred technique is different, I might not be able to help much. But, if you are interested, you can check the following link rather than me re-writing:


Sharpening Thread


The following thread discusses the Lansky and EdgePro some:

The sharp edge thread


Here is a link from the Swamp Rat forum on the EZE Sharp System (another nice jig on steroids) I used to have this jig, but sold after quickly growing to prefer belt sharpening and convex edges:

Doing it EZE



Here is another with some sharpening and modification tips/info: The sharpening ,polishing and modding thread.


Getting your knives VERY sharp is the best way to appreciate using a knife IMO. Once you have used sharp knives and appreciate the benifits, dull knives will NEVER be good enough again.

I love Busse and kin knives. But, I honestly feel their factory edges are not up to me preferences..... not very close actually. Some of the edges can be actually sharp. But, I personally feel the profile of the edge is about as important to a good blades cutting ability as the actual edges sharpness.... this depends on a few things. But, I like all the little factors that come into play to be at optimal level for my uses.

Anyway... good luck.

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Also, questions are always welcome here. We have a helpful group. But, sometimes it is easier just to use the search option at the top of the forum page.

In most cases, you will want to reset the default "date range" to a broader range of dates. I think it defaults to within the last week. One week won't give you many search hits for most topics.

Put in 5 years (longer than the age of Scrap Yard and this forum) and you will search all thread dates.

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Use the angle on the Lansky that makes the most contact with the edge bevel already on your knife. Follow the instuctions that came with the Lansky.

A good way to find the angle is called the magic market trick, you basically color in edge with black marker and start sharpening until you find the right angle, which should be clearly visible where you remove steel now.

IMO, there is a problem with the Lansky. Keep in mind that you will not see this issue on a knife the size of the yard keeper. So, I am only stated it so that you are aware of it in the future.

The overall problem with the lansky is that while the stone is held at a fixed angle, it is forced to travel in a circle. On the lansky that circle is a very small radius.

For any knife over 4" in length, you will start to see the edge from the handle to the center of the blade to the tip be un-even. Wide, skinny, wide again. This is due to the stone traveling in that short radius.

To me, that is unacceptable.

The work around is to do a section, re-clamp, and keep your strokes shorter (3 incehs or so). This will of course take some time.

This same "flaw" is evident in the more expensive systems, like the EdgePro too. The difference being that the edgepro travels in a larger radius, and the problem is not as appartent. But, it is still there.

If you like the jig-type fixtures, the EZESharp is one of the better ones, because it helps to eliminate the radius issue.

If you want a v-grind, I would just suggest free-handing it with a stone.

Yes. You don't really have to maintain the exact angle all the way through anyway. That is BS used to sell complicated sharpening systems. Just keep it as close as you can and pay attention to what each stroke does and where it is hitting the edge. Practice makes perfect. See the Boy Scout Handbook for details. For a hand applied convex edge, the leather on wood system with polishing compound works very well. Some use mouse pads and various grits of sand paper with good results.

Yes, that is another good one not mentioned yet.

I have personally found mousepads to be a bit too spongy. I prefer something like the old military sleeping mats. They are a bit denser. Same concept though.

Whether it is stones, or hand convexing, the reason doing that is superior, IMO is field sharpening, or any other place that you are away from your "crutch." I have sharpened knives while on a long outing. You are sure not going to see anybody hauling an EZElap or edgepro out in the woods <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Another vote for hand sharpening. You can get very good results with a diamond-impregnated stone (or actually a diamond-impregnated, plastic-backed, nickle-faced steel plate) such as those made by DMT. It doesn't take a lot to put a functional edge on something. I guess to some people the slight variations in the appearance or flatness of the edge are offputting when hand-sharpening, but as far as real-world cutting potential, it really doesn't make a difference. The edge is what's doing the cutting, not the secondary faces. As long as you've prevented a burr from forming by alternating faces while decreasing the number of strokes, you'll end up with a good edge. What I like to do is take a few strokes with a "fine" stone at the dominant edge angle to maintain it; and then take one last light stroke down each side with an "ultra fine" stone, at just a hair more obtuse of an angle, to make absolutely sure I'm hitting that edge. I don't shave with my knives or use them as mirrors, but they seem sharp enough to me. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

Wow, I have alot to learn. I use the lansky on all my benchmades and it makes them razor sharp. I thought it was "cutting edge" lol. No really, I thought it was a really good sharpener untill i started reading all the threads about such devices. HornDog you need to put a clinic together. I know I would be there.

The Lansky is a good sharpener. But all it does is help to maintain the same angle on the bevel. It is less useful on larger knives. It is fine for your Benchmades and there is no reason not to use it. But at some point, you might want to learn how to do the same thing free hand. It takes some practice, but once you get good at it, a small pocket stone or other simple sharpening device can go along with you in a sheath pouch or in your pocket, in case you need to sharpen in the field.

Here lately I have started carrying a 4 inch ceramic strop that I found, but man is it hard to use. My kitchen knife set came with what you see butchers use (not sure what their called) it broke in half and now is a nice size to carry. Are those any good or should i use a flat square one?