Well I heard from HD and he is fine but has just been busy....so that's good. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

On topic again regarding sharpening systems....I think like Snotpig the idea of experimenting but having a good back up system which you can use to correct mistakes is the best way to go. I had to re-profile my Skinny with a Lansky system in order to restore a "tip" which I had rounded off to a knife edge instead of a "point" using the sander to convex it....got it right after that...but only by asking for a few technique tips from HD....then fathomed a few sensible precautions for future use myself.

Best tip I got from HD was to pull the blade away from the belt once you reached the tip and not drag it across....then I figured out not to start with a heavy grit belt...but an old worn out one and use a marker until you felt you had the movements and angles off correct by checking the "ink removal".

It is all a learning curve....but the benefit of convexing blades like these makes it worth it. They sure cut and chop real well once they are done right! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I may have made it sound worse than it actually is, The stones are just the regular not the diamond stones, The stones are concave not worn down to nothing, and they just can't put the edge on the blade I am used to from them.

Eventually I will buy what I need to flatten them out but, I have been doing some research and I am going to put the money into the Edge Pro sharpening system.

Just pick up a DMT X-coarse diamond hone. I use it to flatten my lansky, edgepro, and japanese water stones.

It also works superbly well as a heavy reprofiler that can hog off some serious material pretty quickly.

I used a lansky for years. Recently I learned to sharped using sandpaper and a soft backing to convex my edges. I've been sharpening all my knoves that way ever since and it works outstangingly well. Also less time consuming and IMO easier.