You cand get it as sharp as possible on the stone and then just strop it on a leather belt and it should shave.

From reading your post here and to help if possible in recognising the different grinds of the "blades" and terms applied for these and then the terms applied for the "edges" of the blades and describing the edges here is a few of the common ones ....if you use a stone and sharpen the edge at a given angle of your choice you have an edge which is called a "primary" bevel. Meaning it is the edge applied first. The edge has a simple "V" shape.

You will also hear of the term "secondary" bevel applied to "edges"...this is when the primary "V" shaped edge you have put on the knife has the top sides of the V edge ground at a shallower angle to reduce the resistance of the edge when slicing. It is an "angular" way of creating as near as possible a "tear drop" or "apple seed" shape to the edge.

"Tear Drop" or "Appleseed" shapes are terms sometimes used to describe a Convex edge. Essentially the only difference between a Convex edge and an edge using a Primary and Secondary bevel is that one is a smooth curve either side of the pinnacle of the edge and the other has a ridge line where the secondary bevel thins the "top of the V".

From your description above you are sharpening using a "primary" bevel only.

On a Scandi Knife the grind of the "blade" takes the idea of the primary bevel V shape and applies it to the grind of the blade as per the photo below.



The idea being that the knife is sharpened by lying the Scandi edge flat against the stone along the whole of the V shaped edge seen above and sharpening like that instead of holding the knife free hand at an angle. It is meant to be easier to have consistency in retaining an angle as the Scandi edge acts as an easy guide.

Hope this helps as it is often hard to understand when people are referring to a "blade" shape as opposed to an "edge" shape.

For you new guys, you might not realize, but there is a very effective "search" feature at the top of all pages.

I am not trying to be short, but it often seems like certain topics are discussed over and over. Sharpening has definitely been discussed a bunch.

My posts tend to be very long. I like to give thorough and complete answers and info. I tend to get carried away, but there is SO much information about sharpening and just don't have the time right now to type a full/complete and comprehensive reply (again!). So, rather than retype again and again, I am trying to help "empower" some of you guys in regards to these VERY Broad questions / subjects.

The biggest key to using the search feature is to change the "Date Range".

The maximum number of hits is 200. So, if you hit 200 with your search term, then you probably are not getting "All" of the possible hits.

For reference, this forum is about 2.5 years old. So, putting 3, 5 or 10 years will cover the date range. But, if you see that your term is bringing more than 200 hits, you might want to change your search dates into sections like:

newer than one year / older than 0 days (leave it blank)

then newer than 2 years / older than one year


or newer than 6 months / older than 0 days
then newer than 1 year / older than 6 months .... etc.

The dates are shown on the hits, so you can gauge your parameters.

But, there are WAY more than 200 hits for key words such as: Sharp, sharpen, sharpening.

Clicking the "Subject" box will narrow your search down to original "Topics" related to your search.


There is a MEGA-Ton amount of information on sharpening and related discussions.


Here are a couple of older good sharpening threads to get you started:


Sharpening Thread


The sharpening ,polishing and modding thread.


CONVEX SHARPENING THE BRKCA WAY By Reid Hyken aka: Sharpshooter


Sharpening My Way - By Jerry Hossom


Quick & easy knife sharpening - J. Neilson



EXCELLENT Video Tutorials by fellow Scrap Dog - Brian A.:

Convex Knife Sharpening with a Belt Sander - By Brian A.


Good luck and happy reading.

.

Thank you for compiling those tutorials in your post KnifeGuy, looks like you did the search work for us. After reading those, I guess all that's left to do is give it a go and see how it shapes up! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/loopy.gif" alt="" />

KG thanks for being so helpful, i appreciate it!! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

Thanks for the info, Knifeguy...on sharpening and searching! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Glad to be of help.

Hopefully, you guys will find some value in some of those posts. Then posts some pics of your razor sharp edges (any justification for more knife pics <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />).








.

Hey Knifeguy,

I was doing more reading last night from your posts and links from your posts, and I'm seriously considering a belt sander. With that Delta sander and even a handful of belts, I can probably get into the game under $200. For some reason, I'm REALLY having trouble getting a decent edge on my SOD even though I've been sharpening knives on my bench stone for years. It's just so big and thick, and I think that I need some powered help. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

Several folks made the comment about the Delta being high speed. Do you have any concerns over this? Can you still use it but possibly go down in grit size (say 500 rather than 250), so your blade doesn't heat up as fast?

I'd appreciate any thoughts that you can throw my way.

Nick

Well I just goofed up bigtime.
Was sharpening my GameWarden with a Lansky
Sharpening System,diamond stones mounted on rods
that go into a clamp thing...
Well,somehow i got a nice few scratches right on the face
of one side of the knife.
Sucks! That knife is my user,but still,I would have liked
to have kept it smooth.
Any way to get some light scratches out?
Maybe not that light,I can feel one with my fingernail.
Oh well,the knife does cut pretty good now. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

(who knows how much damage I would have done
if I was using power tools!)

Nick,

In an effort to keep my rediculously long post together with my Sharpening thread, I posted a reply for you in regards to your question pertaining to sharpening on that thread.

See: Sharpening Thread - pg. 3

.

Are you referring to and asking about how to repair a scratch on a coated blade or a satin blade?

If coated, I don't know of a fix - other than to "FIX" the knife right and strip the coating. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

If you are referring to and asking about how to repair a scratch on a satin blade, the best solution is to use it and live with the scratch. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Any other fix would likely involve more sanding the entire blade, Scotch-brite pads or similar. I finish my knives like this all the time. But, the process tends to remove logos and such.

It is very hard to touch any existing satin finish with any other abrasive media and expect to match the same scratch pattern. In almost every instance, you will have a slightly different grit that will result in a different scratch pattern and the repaired area will look different from the existing areas.

So, it tends to be all or nothing with satin finishes.