The NMSFNO is really a sweet blade - I'm sure glad that I got mine!!! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

since we're on a nmsfno jaunt whats up with the nuclear meltdown...im really not a fan of it...why is it sought after?

The NMFBM was the first chance to get the Battle Mistress style that I like - straight spine like the original, and rounded instead of flat.
The NMSFNO is unique in that it is an inch longer than the SFNO, with the rounded spine. The handles work well also! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

I love the Meltdown on my NMSFNO.. I don't know if it serves a purpose, but it looks really cool to me..

The meltdown makes the choil very comfy and gives a VERY slight weight reduction. Other than that I think it is aesthetics.

I honestly haven't heard much comment on the Nuclear Meltdown treatment.

Some seem to modestly like it. Some are not big fans.

Personally, I have mixed feelings.

When stripping a CG, I tend to put radii or bevels on the corners of my knives at the spine and choil for comfort.
Most of the Scrap Yard and Swamp Rat LE's are fine as they have been - IMO. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

Many of the CG spines don't need much - just a slight rubbing with some sandpaper by hand or a few quick passes on the belt sander.

A lot of my CG's needed a bit more tweeking/modifying and radiusing in the choil areas to maximize comfort - IMO.
But, sometimes, I am just getting carried away trying to make it "Perfect" <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/loopy.gif" alt="" /> - when just very subtle mods would be more than sufficient in most cases. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

Sharp corners are just not comfortable - especially at the choil.


The way Jerry did the NM (Nuclear Meltdown) Treatment is sort of the far end of the radiusing spectrum to me vs. just square corners.

With square corners, you get two sharp outside corners, but a flat surface area in the middle.

With the NM Treatment, the sharp corners are radiused to the Max, but that leaves more of a "Peak" in the middle.

I typically just put a small radius on the outside corners of the spines of my knife - Or a small flat bevel of about 45 degrees and leave much of the top of the spine flat. For my thumbs, the flat surface offers a good purchase and control, while the subtle radii or bevels are sufficient to knock down the sharp corners. (See picture - Top Middle and Top Right)






To me in feel and function, the small radius vs. the small 45 degree bevel are very similar and mainly only vary in aesthetics. They both look and feel fine to me.


For my choils, I like a "Trigger"-Style (compound) Radii (See above picture at bottom left) - where I put a shallow radius in the middle instead of a flat or peak and then further radius the corners to transition smoothly from shallow radius to sides. This feels best to me in the choils and on my index finger.

For me, the NM treatment is still very decent at the choil area and feels fine to my index finger. But, I am not so big on the NM treatment's Peak for my thumb. The NM's "Peak" just doesn't feel so great to my thumb. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> I would rather have a flat thumb ramp/notch with the corners slightly radiused/rounded. Again, I find having the corners slightly knocked off helps in comfort, but the NM's Peak just isn't quite as good. A flatter surface or only a very slightly radiused spine offers better feel for my thumb.

For my purposes, the NM choil is really sufficient and almost as good as my slightly preferred "Trigger" shape.
But, I should note that I find "Feel" of choils varies depending on thickness of tang.
All I really need to do to improve the thumb notch is to just flatten out the peak of the radius a bit = generally pretty easy. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" /> .... and since the SFNO thumb notch doesn't quite feel right to me anyway, I was almost assured I would be making a modification to the thumb notch anyway. (Sort of like how I modified the thumb notch on my HRLM.)

Another issue worth pointing out is how various spine radiusing can affect batoning. Without any radii at all, sharp corners tend to tear up a baton.
I think the NM treatment is slightly better than sharp square corners, but the NM's peak could still cause baton wear faster than either of the other two options. For batoning, I would think the compound "Trigger" type radiusing would be best. But, I don't think there is much worthy difference for batoning between most of the spines so long as they don't have a swedge or sharp corners. The batons I use in the woods are cheap and burn well. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

However, I do think the NM treatment looks pretty nice - Unique for one and two (if nothing else), I appreciate the "Effort" and intent to provide an improvement by radiusing.
Although, I would probably vote for the compound "Trigger" style radiusing if one type were to be used for both spine and choil. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

I "AM" a fan of the full radiusing of the lanyard holes. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" /> - Nothing but benefits there - IMO.


The following pics are borrowed. I don't have any NM LE's. But, they show the NM treatment pretty well:












NM Treatment on CG NMSFNO:








NM Treatment on CG FBM that was stripped and satin finished by Ban:



[img]http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j183/DWRW/Busse-NMFBM-strippedbyBan1c.jpg[/img]



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I don't have the recent Muk or SODLE, but, from what I have seen Busse and kin have done a very reasonable job at knocking the corners off of the spines on LE models.

My MPLE has a very nice simple bevel on the spine corners. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" /> Sorry I don't have a convenient pic to access. But, the MPLE is well done. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

The only Busse LE model I have ever owned or even handled is the SFNOLE which has a simarly very nice simple corner bevel that works and looks just fine and dandy on the spines. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" /> - And honestly, the same treatment on the choil works fine as well. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" /> - ..... Although, personally, I am still not big on the thumb notch. It just doesn't fit my thumb right and isn't versatile enough for my preferences. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

I do have "1" Competition Edge Busse - my HR.
The spine beveling is just as nice on my HR as the spine beveling on my SFNOLE. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

However, while I love the factory convex edge on the CE HR, I am not as big on the choil feel and will probably eventually do my "Trigger" type beveling treatment to my HR.
In regards to the HR, while the edge is nice, unfortunately, I was/am still not happy with all of the decarb, dimples and actually I feel the swedge has POOR grind marks and lines. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif" alt="" /> One of the only true great factory Busse edges, but SO much more work to do to this knife to make it "Decent", let alone up to par. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />
I will point out though, that IMO, the HR has one of the VERY FEW thumb notches that have ever worked sufficiently for me. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" /> I will probably still shallow it out a little more. But, it is pretty decent. Most Busse and kin thumb ramps and thumb notches just have not worked for me.

It is hard to rate, critique or compare any of the CG models since the coatings tend to change the shape of any rounding or beveling.


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In regards specifically towards thumb ramps and notches (since I have mentioned it):

The SARSquatch, HR, RMD, Desert Jack and Hairy Carry thumb ramps/notches work for me.

SJTAC, HRLM, Yard Guard, SFNOLE, NMSFNO, DFLE and Dog Skinner thumb ramps/notches "Don't" work for me.

YMMV! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />



To me, the NMSFNO's thumb notch doesn't quite fit my thumb right. So, when I get around to stripping mine (CG), I intend to make a subtle modification to the thumb notch by reducing the height of the first ramp and extending the length of the notch into a sublte single curve ramp towards the tip to effectively shallow it out. When I do this, I can make the thumb notch more flat

I haven't made any modifications to my SFNOLE or NMSFNO yet. But, the SJTAC, HRLM, Yard Guard and DFLE were all able to be modified well.
I don't expect too many issues modifying the SFNO's... BUT, those two do have reasonably deep recessed thumb notches. With the deep recesses, modifications to those two will be a little trickier and have more visible aesthetic changes. We'll see. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />


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In regards to spine treatments, the Hairy Carry LE has a very cool and unique spine treatment that tapers from ricasso to tip. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" /> I like it!

[img]http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j183/DWRW/SwampRat-HairyCarrySE40spine.jpg[/img]



Anyway,... in the end.... "different strokes for different folks". <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />


.

For me, a lot of positive things have been said about it in this forum. I really like the FFBM but I really don't see lugging it around very far. Car trips and such, great, but I can't imagine humping it around for days. NMSFNO being somewhat smaller, well... moving in the right direction. Probably don't need it, but being new to Bussekin there's some satisfaction in getting something else "from the factory" and before it's not available other than through "secondary". So earlier I was contemplating ordering one and postponing the other order but as the saying goes "have a plan and stick to it" - all things permitting of course.

If you want big AND light go for the DogFather LE or Battle Rat.

My problem lately is a "FOUR letter word" - WANT