I skimmed through a bunch of the posts on this thread when I first looked through and missed a few things.

The video above (IMO) is a GREAT video with some very practical modifications to a machete (that could be used for a large chopper as well). I like the guys perspective on how to use tools and how to modify them.

Ironically, this video shows sort of what I was thinking that is a little converse to what SF was (is???) considering. The guy in the video makes the Scandi edge up closer to the handle with a more acute edge for finer detail work. I believe I actually saw Brian make a similar mod on one of his machetes. Personally, I always have a smaller knife for chores and tasks that need such detail work. But, if someone where to go into the woods/bush with just a machete and the concept of one machete to do it all, I would seriously consider similar mods on a short stout machete.
Like the guy in the video, I like my machetes VERY sharp as well. But, considering how most machetes have a bit softer steel, it is hard to go to thin on the chopping parts of the edges or edge deformation happens way to easily. So, with a machete, I think there can be some advantages to sharpening with two different types of grinds and different levels of sharpening at the chopping area of the blade vs. a possible utility area of the blade.

I think a DF/DFLE, Battle Rat, CGFBM or similar Choppers "might" benefit from such mods if your only knife in the bush. But, I generally find my convex edges on my choppers are both good for chopping and fine work. So, I don't know that I see reason to change how I sharpen them at this time (???)


While the guy in the video has modified a larger knife with an area for finer detail cutting, I guess if someone knew they would be needing a more acute angle for a lot of barb-wire chopping or something, then I guess go for it.

I suppose my response to this thread earlier may have been a little harsh. I tend to try to be practical, so if grinding a different grind into a knife is a justified modification, then I guess do it.
I suppose I approached this a little bit with my blinders on as I just don't "personally" like my knives like that.

Back to the guy on machetes. I like how he uses the spine to scrape shavings. I am surprised, I have never thought of using the spines of any of my knives for this. I actually tend to round over the sharp edges on my knives for comfort. I actually do a lot of woodworking projects and I use razors as scrapers all the time to scrape of defects. To scrape/shave wood effectively with a scraper or razor without cutting into the wood, just hold slightly forward of 90 degrees perpendicular to the wood. With a sharp edge, this make very fine shavings which would arguably be easier, faster and better than feather sticks in many cases.... depends on the wood and bark and such.

As I mentioned earlier, I don't really use ferro rods much. I have two and I have used them for fun, but not as a rule for my fire making. Probably more just to know I can. However, I "DO" make tender and always start my fire with shavings and work up through sizes of tender to get my fires going.
Anyway, from my attempts, I find that a good sharp corner of a spine or similar 90 degree corner of a knife works better than using the knife's edge. And I still don't like using my knife's edge for ferro rods..... I just don't.

This guy makes some other very relevant points about machetes - such as most machetes struggle with harder woods. But, there are many different sizes and shapes of machete. So, if you know you will be dealing more with harder wood, I shorter/thicker machete tends to work a lot better. Such a machete probably tends to be more versatile for most people. I have about 3 different machetes I often use. (Not as equiped as Vic. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" />) Two are longer and thinner and one is shorter and thicker. The definitely have some over-lap and yet they still definitely tend to lean one way or the other for being better at soft woods vs. harder woods. Both are good for limbing.

To me, machetes beg to be modified. As a pretty general rule, most machetes are very cheap utilitarian tools that "CAN" be made into EXCEPTIONAL tools..... even if they don't have nearly the edge qualities of most knives and especially Busse and kin. But, some machetes have much better edge properties than others. I have an old Corona stainless machete that has HORRIBLE edge properties, but I bought it for myself when I was a young kid...... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />... I am not usually that sentimental about "stuff" <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />... anyway, it still hangs in my garage..... tangent .... sorry. Anyway, most machetes are cheap and not much effort is put into ergos, finish work or decent sharpening.
So, I tend to do a lot of grinding on the handles to make them comfortable and of course sharpening. ****** I sharpen ALL of my yard and work tools that benefit from sharpening. I don't know why I never see people sharpening their shovels, hoes, weed tools, etc. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> They all work MANY times better when sharp - same as a sharp knife vs. a dull one. Most people I know don't ever even sharpen an axe. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/loopy.gif" alt="" />... Most people probably don't know much about sharp tools I guess. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

Sorry if lots of tangents and too much about machetes..... just sort of happens that way some times. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" />

.

Yes, they are VERY close in size. Different grinds with the full height flat on the FSH shown (same as my FSH that I LOVE) vs. the full heigh convex primary grind on the NMSFNO.

The FSH has a taller blade than the NMSFNO. Most of the difference in length between the two is in the bit longer skull crusher pommel on the FSH.


NMSFNO.................= 21.5 ounces; .25” thick; 8.25” blade; 14.0” oal; 1.83" blade height

FSH (full flat grind)..= 22.0 ounces; .27” thick; 8.1875” blade; 14.4” oal; 2.00" blade height

Both are AWESOME knives. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif" alt="" />



.

Hi KG, thanks for your thoughts on this and thanks also to CP for that link to the guy who really knows his stuff on modifying a machete. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

Strangely after giving things some serious thought I guess I am in the same school of thought to KG when it comes to modifying my knives. I think that form and function very often follow hand in hand. If it does'nt look right on the knife it probably won't feel or perform right either.

So when doing the modifications this morning I decided to follow what has worked well in the past and try one or two new things of a minor nature.

Firstly with the NMSFNO I started by simply re-profiling the existing edge to give a nice convex edge which is my usual approximate 40 degree primary and 30 degree secondary edge bevelled together to make a nice convex tear drop shape. I have done this so many times now that I don't do the flat grinds first...just go straight to the sander...and this is how it turned out...



The edge was then stropped using the KSF leather paddle HD put me onto with their green compound and is pleasingly razor sharp.

On my NMSFNO the grind from the factory at the tip was a little too steep and slightly dominant on one side...not much but you notice it when sharpening and I wanted to give this knife a very good sharp point without dropping the original spine plunge line so that whilst not central to the grip area for maximum stabbing ability it could none the less easily cope with such tasks.

So I re-profiled the point and added a penetrator tip grind.



This point is now needle sharp and would be very effective if required.

I decided not to go for a spine clip edge. My intention when using this in the field is to use this and my sage RMD as a pair with the smaller RMD being available for food prep and finer tasks. The sage coating is very useful in that it is light enough to show up resin and blood stains to ensure you are aware when the knife needs cleaning before attending to food tasks.

So what I did was to also reprofile the RMD with my usual convex edge and add to it a sharpened clip point at a more obtuse angle for ferro rod use...basically taking the grind for the clip from the existing lines of the knife...and this is how it turned out...





The RMD has had the edge near the choil thinned down a bit more for a very sharp and slightly finer convex edge for delicate work.

With both knives I also ran the grips over a few times with my electric triangular sander to take the rough edges off the grips and they are both much more comfortable in the hand.

Should I need to deal with barbed wire I agree with KG that having a leatherman to hand with wire cutters makes life just that bit easier...and if I must use the knife the NMSFNO convex edge should take task OK on an infrequent basis. Ferro rod wise I can use the NMSFNO forward portion of the finger choil as it tapers to the edge of the knife as a strike point...infact it works very well!

So both of these knives are now ready to go <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

Sharp points are great for starting into the guts when cleaning deer. My SODs factory edge wasn't crisp enough to go break through the "membrane" seperating the intestines from the chest cavity. If you clean many deer you know exactly what I am talking about.

Luckily, when I did that I had an old standby ready to go.

Yes I know what you mean....sharp points just make life easy...if you have to cut around the annal passage to free up the bowl so you can pull it back through...a nice sharp edge and tip are also useful then...but an 8 inch knife is a bit of a handful for that sort of thing...I would prefer the RMD... although it could be done with the NMSFNO.

SF,

To me the mods to your NMSFNO and RMD look well justified. I like that the lines are still left to appear to maintain good knife ergos and pleasing aesthetics. I like the approach of selectively thinning or leaving thick certain areas of the edges to use for what works for "you" while still maintaining all of the other simple and effective form and function.

Sometimes carefull planning and conservative modifications are the way to go. I think in the long run, it appears you have improved the knife for your uses while NOT creating any apparent "Negative" side-affects. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

Well done! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />


I would still recommend considering a piece (3.5" - 4.0") of hacksaw or sawzall blade to try with your ferro rod. Metal finer teeth like 18 - 24 TPI or finer should be very good. I would just use an old one if you or a buddy has a used one. However, the Tungsten Carbide ones for ceramic Tile should very likely be about the best tool for producing sparks as you could find!!! I would think the Tungsten Carbide ones should shower sparks like crazy!!!



I would cut/grind mine down on my belt sander with a little finger notch for control. A two finger grip should be plenty. I mainly hold between thumb and index in a pinch grip, but the extra length to go to my middle finger adds a lot of control and stability to help prevent twisting and flipping.
Then just about 1.5" - 2.5" of teeth should be plenty.

Cut the little tang off the end. Slip it on a lanyard or in a pouch somewhere. It is very light, easy to stash somewhere and effective.



Since you have "tools for making tools" <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> (I love saying that <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> ) and if you have a use for another metal tool in the field, you could grind a pick tip, pry tip for light prying, screwdriver tip, can opener, etc. into the front and or back of a tool like that. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

I think the front part of the finger choil should work well and a good area as far as not creating any concernable edge damage, but seems like it might be an awkward area to strike with (?????). <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

Another consideration, assuming you carry your Leatherman, would be the file on a Leatherman. Those "toothy" teeth on a file or hacksaw or Sawzall Metal blade work well on ferro rods.

.

Yes KG, the leatherman is the easiest way to get a strike...but like anything it pays to have some facility for this on any knife...particularly if the rod is attached to the sheath.

Sometimes though the leatherman is kept in a Bergan pocket and dumping a Bergan is a virtual necessity if you are having to bug out on a contact where you are taking on superior numbers. For this reason I really try and get my belt kit spot on and a mimimalist approach is needed because of the competition for space. I do therefore have the saw blade striker but this is usually in my survival tin which is in the relevant E&E pouch. So in none "troubled" situations I just like to be able to use my more accessible bits and pieces on my belt.In fairness though a good multi tool is argued by many as being better than a good belt knife...and actually knife lovers like us are probably in the minority....with many just carrying a Leatherman.