Can one of you convex edge experts tell me, when you are using a hand sander/mouse pad technique, do you keep the blade to sandpaper angle constant for the whole stroke or do you increase the angle (sort of rolling the blade) as the stroke continues?

I am not an expert, but I keep the same angle as much as possible through the whole stroke. The "give" in the pad will naturally cause a curved or convex edge.

I'm far from an expert, but I try to keep the angle fairly constant as well. That said, the nice thing about the mouse pad/sandpaper method is that it's fairly forgiving of angle. I get to spend more time watching tv and less time worrying about what angle I'm grinding at.

Thanks for you tips gents.
I'll give it another try.

Though I can't help you, I still want the last post. HA!

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Sharp knives are cool.
















<img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />

Yes, they are EC. I am on a quest to learn how to sharpen a knife to a hair popping edge. I am getting close but I want shaving sharp!

I picked up some sandpaper today. I will soon try it.
The highest number grit I could find at home depot was 600. Hope thats fine enough.

Ikeep hearing about 1500 grit but the 600 practically feels like smooth paper as it is , cantimagi e 1500 grit. Geeez

Southstar,

Home Depot primarily only carries sandpaper for working on wood with. I frequent Home Depot and Lowes pretty regularly. I generally only see up to 400.

In any event, 600 isn't that smooth compared to most knife sharpening media.

600 "WILL" sharpen though and 400 - 600 are pretty decent grits for still cutting steel at a noticable rate, but they tend to leave a toothy edge.

To get a quality, fine, polished, shaving, push-cutting edge, you will need to go to finer grits.

For sandpaper finer than 400 (finer than 600 in your case), you will need to go to an "Auto" parts store. Most auto-parts stores carry 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000 and sometimes 2500 grit sandpaper.

I have tried these fine sandpapers and they do work, but quite honestly, they are NOT worth the cost. IMO, sandpaper starts loosing it's value at about 600 - 800 grit.

The problem with the high/fine grit sandpapers is that they cost a LOT more than the sandpaper you can buy at Home Depot and you get smaller sheets for the higher cost = a LOT higher cost.

But, it gets worse, the grits on the finer sandpaper don't even last as long as the coarser grit sandpapers - so, you also get less wear/usage/mileage out of the finer grit sandpapers.

In the end, it is WAY worth doing just a bit of research and planning to buy or make yourself a leather strop and use the "compounds" for abrasives instead of the fine grit sandpapers.

The compound abrasives cost a bit more up-front, but they last WAY longer than sandpaper and quickly start adding up to significant savings.

Also, IMO, the compounds on leather actually work better and more of a joy to use.

One other minor little bonus, the compounds are wax based and help hold some of the grind residue. While both make their own sort of mess, I find the compounds a LOT less messy. I often like to strop in my den while in front of the TV. I actually recommend watching your knife when stropping, but I find I can sort of do both. When I have used sandpaper, I spread out newspaper on a little folding table or similar and still end up with a big "Dusty" mess. The strop still makes a smaller mess, but mainly not nearly as dusty.

Buying a leather strop is not real expensive, but it is an investment that should last for MANY years. And if you don't want to pay $25 - $40 for pre-made strop, you can make your own out of very inexpensive materials. Making a leather strop is as simple as cutting to shape and gluing a decent piece of leather onto a board. All you have to do is decide what size and shape strop you want and where to find a decent piece of leather for a strop.

Some choppers need a bit of sanding to true some dents and rolls. But, once most knives have a good edge, they tend to just need a few quick passes on a leather strop to stay shaving sharp.

Anyway,.... I have written and rambled enough about this in the past:

Sharpening Thread


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does anyone know of a video where it shows someone sharpening the belly of a knife on a belt sander? I'm having a hard time keeping the right angle.

It is hard to explain in writing all the little nuances of sharpening. I have spent countless hours beating around it, but I will never be able to accurately explain "All" the little nuances - and those nuances vary with different shaped blades, different lengths and different equipment.

For most people, the belly doesn't seem to be a significant problem area. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> Tips and recurves tend to be more common problems.

I have seen some different people post their own tips on tips <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />, but those posts are probably well scattered around. I would probably search the various sharpening threads. There have been a few.

In the end, the best thing is to just practice with different shaped and sized "CHEAP" blades first. Then attempt your nicer blades. Idealy, you can practice on a cheap blade that has a similar size and shape to the one you want to work on.


Google Video has a "Few" good videos and a TON of crappy sharpening videos. I am sure without having a fair amount of your own experience most of the crappy videos cause more problems than do good.

BrianA has some pretty darn good videos at his web-site. Some of the best I know of.

See Brian's: "The Backyard Bushman" - BrianA's Sharpening Videos


There are a fair number of other video links posted on the Sharpening Thread.

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