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Re: knive sharpining [Re: KnotSlip] #275818 07/18/09 10:04 AM
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somberbear Offline
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lately i have been using a razor edge system with some pretty good results. i had played with the lansky ones and hated it... it feels all backwards. the razor edge is spendy. but the guide helps me out a ton. so far 15 mins on about every sub 8 inch i own and its pretty sharp, and it does re bevel. then i normaly go and strop it for a few mins to make sure the burrs are broken off and polish up the blade. a little oil and shes back and ready to go.

the other way is with a bench grinder. i have to be a lot more on my game to use it, but its fast if i can hold her steady. rebevel, reshape you name it. but i have to keep practicing on it.

i dont know why i strop really. but every thing looks cleaner after i do and it seams to keep the edge nice and polished which for some reason keeps the rust and gunk a little down on the cutting edge also feels smoother and sharper.

Last edited by somberbear; 07/18/09 10:05 AM.

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Re: knive sharpining [Re: somberbear] #275819 07/18/09 11:37 AM
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MustardMan Offline
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Quote

the other way is with a bench grinder.

A bench grinder is a great way to ruin the heat treat on your knife <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/doh.gif" alt="" />

Re: knive sharpining [Re: MustardMan] #275820 07/18/09 02:47 PM
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somberbear Offline
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depends on the knife and what its going to be used for. these cheap stamped blades i have right now take it well and i quench them as they grind. i can also re-temper if needed. i have some old hand made saw blade knives that i might start learning with. there is no need for me to go to the bench grinder on my higher end knives simple stoning does the job. on cheap knives where removing lots of material to get a proper bevel is needed grinders are quicker.

its really picking the best tool at your situation. grinder if you have to reprofile, stoning if you are just maintaining an edge.You would still have to do some major grinding and removal in a pass for it to heat up enough to take the temper out. i have found light pressure while slower makes a better tool. but most of my education on grinders was in a machine shop. making cutting tools for the lathe. slow is okay as long you do it right.

but hey im just learning still and not a master. and of course can be totally wrong.


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Re: knive sharpining [Re: somberbear] #275821 07/18/09 03:12 PM
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SOUTHSTAR Offline
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Ok now I'm feeling more confuse than when I started . I'll just start over and try to express exactry what I'm searching for the answers to.
My questions are:

- Im on a budget so I only want to get one system if I can for now. What would be the one do it all system you would reccomend( profiing, sharpening and touching up) my goal is a convex edge as this seems to be the best all around favorite.


-What knife would you recomend for practice? Again something g really cheap but at least decent enough to want to keep after I'm done should it come out ok.

- Lastly how would one Maintain a convex edge on and extended backpacking trip. It would need to be something small and light to carry around ( possibly fit in sheath pocket).

Thank you for reading my questions . I really apreciate the info and experience you All share.

Re: knive sharpining [Re: SOUTHSTAR] #275822 07/18/09 10:00 PM
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Little Green Men Offline
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I got my BR Compound and Strop today and man it really works! I now understand the definition of hair popping sharp <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif" alt="" /> Also I was wondering if anyone know's if I should clean my strop after use..and if so how would I go about that? Thanks

Re: knive sharpining [Re: Little Green Men] #275823 07/19/09 04:39 AM
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MRpink Offline
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Clean it when it gets black and slick. I use a dry green scotch brite pad and just wipe it back and forth.


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Re: knive sharpining [Re: MRpink] #275824 07/19/09 05:12 AM
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Little Green Men Offline
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Thanks alot for the info man.

Re: knive sharpining [Re: Little Green Men] #275825 07/19/09 05:16 AM
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MRpink Offline
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the green scotch brite pad is nice too because it lightly scratches the surface of the leather so the compound sticks better and more evenly (less caking).


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