Well what do you have access to to do a re-profile job?

Good results have come about by guys using Automotive Wet and Dry carbon sanding paper and home made mouse boards stuck to a block of wood...the mouse board gives the paper that flex to get a curved convex edge...and using a marker pen you can colour the edge and see where you are removing metal...you want to be taking it off the sides of the edge first and then re-profiling down to the cutting edge...don't worry about angles if free handling the knife...just go off results from using your finger or forefinger to test the edge...not down the edge...just across it...you won't be far off and the "long way" like this gives you "muscle memory" for how to hold the knife for consistancy.

Check out U tube for some good tips....film movement shots can speak volumes...

Editted - Just read MM's response...guess we are both saying the same thing.

Good info... I want my Muk to look like Tyger's knife...

Great info here.
I am working on hand profiling
a few of my cheaper knives.
Got 1 pretty good,but still need practice.
Using a marker on the edge! Great Idea!

I should probably post up some pictures of my sloppy hand-reprofile job on my mini mojo. I wasn't too worried about keeping the edge really uniform, as I was more worried about removing a lot of steel to get rid of all the chips I put in the edge.

Still, even without stropping it, it's already sharper than when I got it. Which isn't saying much <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/doh.gif" alt="" />

I tried with the lansky sharpener,
Butchered up my GW.
Well,not butchered butchered,but pretty bad.
Took a lot of 80 Grit Sandpaper to get it back. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />