+1. I like the grind on my DFLE WAYmore than the DFCG, and that's coming from someone who generally prefers heavier, saber-ground blades (e.g. I prefer my first-run Ranger RD6 saber-grind to the later full flat ground version)...
But on big blades, i LOVE the FBMLE (full flat), but found the saber-ground FFBM too blade-heavy, clumsy even. On smaller knives like the Dumpstermutt i find the saber-grind perfection itself, but still love the flat-ground LE and DC versions. Do you Doggs think that geometry becomes more critical as blade-size increases? <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

I LOVE my SODLE-DFLE and S6LE <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />. I have them all in CG too but prefer the LE <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />. Hey................we need the Reg LE now in SR 101 <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" /> !!

With a blade long enough to become blade heavy in a full flat, a saber grind shifts even more weight to the blade end. Usually that makes more of a dedicated chopper, and less of a well-balanced all-around knife. I'm not a fan of saber grinds on large knives. Furthermore, saber grinds aren't very good for batoning - the harsh corner at the transition from flat to saber grind is more likely to bind up in the wood, and that's also the first place your coating will wear. If you want to beef up a large knife, a convex primary grind is the way to go, IMHO - shifts the weight out like a saber grind, but no harsh corner to bind up. Of course, convex grinds are labor intensive to do, which is why you see lots of them on Busse's and few of them on Scrap Yards.

In smaller knives, I'm still not in love with the saber, but it does have its benefits, especially on thin knives that could use some beefing up, or knives short enough that the saber grind helps improve the balance. That is ESPECIALLY true for Busse blades, with their full tangs and micarta/g10 handles, which can tend to be blade heavy. It works on other blades too - the Scrapper 5's saber grind gives it a very slightly blade heavy balance, which is far superior to a handle heavy balance for an actual user knife, IMO.

On mid-sized knives, like a Dumpster Mutt or SJTAC, a saber grind can make the difference between an all-arounder that can chop a bit and one that you really wouldn't want to use for chopping. Given the choice, I'd probably prefer my smooth bolt SJTAC to have a full flat grind, since it's already a pretty heavy knife, but the saber grind does make it a pretty respectable chopper for the length.



In general, I dislike saber grinds, but there are some knives that I own and like despite their saber grinds. On the flip side, I got rid of my Desert Dogfather very quickly, because I didn't like the saber grind on that one at all.

If you have thinner stock and use a saber grind, then you can still end up with the same grind angle. The blade will be lighter but the overall thickness of the blade will make it a less effective log splitter.

I see your point. It shouldn't be an issue. It should make for a great all around user.

I don't see the Reg as a log splitter either. I was just pointing out the only major drawback of a saber grind to a full flat grind, that's all.

Please forgive me, I'm not trying to insult anyone's intelligence.

I have and I know it can take it, but I agree that there are other knives better suited for it.

Seems that if the knife was designed for poking and prying, it would be made out of sr77 instead of sr101...

Even when the 101 differentially tempered, I'd still hand lateral strength to 77.

IMO

I'm no longer in the line of work where I can properly field my Regulator as a fighter (not saying that I would have actually fought with it, but I'm far less likely to now), but I have found that it makes an excellent log splitter. It's only shortcoming as a log splitter is it's blade length. I only have one knife that's better at splitting logs and that's my DF.