I guess you could argue that it helps a little, but the main difference is the fact that there is no top guard on the SoD. So, a sharp pivot downward wouldn't do anything to the handle, because it's not protruding like the guard does. The lower guard on the SoD, on the other hand, has a metal guard in front of the res-c to protect it.

The lighting in this pic sucks, but it should illustrate the difference:

Understood.

Thank you MustardMan for both the information and the pic.

My apologies to members of the Yard for getting slightly off topic.

-Stan

I " think" it is called a quillon on the Reg. That has been the sore point all along that it should have metal under the ResC I believe <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />. I am thinking if it was designed as a fighter-no big deal- but as a all around knife- could be a problem <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />. That is what I am seeing ? Thanks

Just remove it and smooth it over like on the Ka-Bar Heavy Bowie.
It makes it easier to attach it to a wooden shaft also for spear use or chopping.

i see myself possibly taking a razor blade and some sandpaper after i mess up the guard some and trying to smooth it out to remove the problem...think itll work?

I have heard - i think from Andy? (but i have the memory of a goldfish)- that applying a little heat, like using a bic/zippo lighter to warm it makes Res-C soft, and you can actually shape it. But you didn't hear it from me if it turns into a bunch of stringy goo like the cheese when you pick up a piece of hot pizza... I would reccommend starting slowly if you try the heat method. But someone fixed a tear in a Res-c handle that way and it looked as good as new. I just wish i could remember who it was...

i haven't liked that rubber guard since i laid eyes on it. does nothing but interfere, won't "guard" a thing, and looks terrible.

actually thats perfect, my job had a heat gun for shrinkwrapping...maybe my boss will lety me use it on a day off...though it could be tricky walking into a gamestop with a bowie that size and not freak anyone out lol

I think your point is obvious. When I batoned with mine, I just hammered away at the curverd tip end, which BTW really reduces the wasted energy of a blow glancing off of a linear slope. At 1/3in thick, the [censored] thing just split would so well I didn't need to hammer the guard end. It just means that it will only handle smaller wood than something like the DF or SOD could handle. This is one of the primary reasons that the only mod I would have asked for would be a 10 inch rendition. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

At first I was disappointed that it is no longer full flat ground but then I noticed that the saber grind reduced the price. In a knife this size, I am not so worried about a thin flat grind because I am not going to be slicing up apples with it. If it reduces the price, it is worth it IMHO.

When compared to the SOD knife, it is thinner and looks like a better stabber. I don't really have a use for a stabbing knife. I don't really have a use for it but I have been waiting for so long I am going to buy one anyway.

I think Dan should have made the blanks with steel in front of the guards to protect the hand better if it's used as a fighter.If you block a chopping/slashing swing with it I don't see the RES-C stopping the blow.Slow it down maybe,but it's going to get chewed up and eventually let the opposing blade past.Plus the extra steel would protect the guards during hard use.Seems like a no brainer that should have been done from the get go.All bases would have been covered then.
Of course the handles are covered under the warranty too.
Just another 2 cents in the bank. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I don't think its made for batoning....not every knife is a camp knife...i.e the bird dog? skinner yes, batoning? no....i think its a straight up fighter