my favorite of the 3 steels is SR-101, it strops very easy and hold a edge great! INFI does this to and is more corrostion resistance, but I have more experiance with SR-101 so thtas my vote. I only have 4 INFI blades, war dog Scrapper 5 LE and a Boss Street and a Boss Jack. They say big blades of INFI is where you really see it shine, Mine are all small to medium

Before stropping, which means of sharpening do you use? I am looking af a Lansky universal system, but don't know if it is the way to go.
And how do you like the Boss Jack? I am considering buying that one. From what I understand it is in stock on the Busse order page...

Well here is my process and my simple tools. With a good set of diamond stones, time and effort to learn you can get great results!

I recently noticed while playing with the benchstone and a piece of plank that it seemed to be a good angle at around 5 degrees. After some measurement this is what I came up with:





Now the reason for this is due to a video done by another member on various forums.
Here is a link to his great adjustable sharpening platform:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXhrqfV5jvs

My method is very similar, except after watching videos of the Bubble Jig
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=Jp5NLNmMe2Y

I decided to incorporate something similar till I can afford the real Bubble Jig.


The secret is to get a good burr going. This is D2 steel on my Becnhmade Bone Collector profiled to 10 degrees per side.

Good burr



Edge all the way sharpened


No burr, and not hitting the entire edge: BAD!


[img]http://i840.photobucket.com/albums/zz325/geronki2/2011/P5170022-1.jpg[/img]

Then I knock the burr of with white ceramic stone of Lansky
[img]http://i840.photobucket.com/albums/zz325/geronki2/2011/P5170034.jpg[/img]

Then strop.
[img]http://i840.photobucket.com/albums/zz325/geronki2/2011/P5170035.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i840.photobucket.com/albums/zz325/geronki2/2011/P5170036.jpg[/img]

Results
[img]http://i840.photobucket.com/albums/zz325/geronki2/2011/P5170044.jpg[/img]

Under 25X times magnification
[img]http://i840.photobucket.com/albums/zz325/geronki2/2011/P5170040.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i840.photobucket.com/albums/zz325/geronki2/2011/P5170038.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i840.photobucket.com/albums/zz325/geronki2/2011/P5170048.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i840.photobucket.com/albums/zz325/geronki2/2011/P5170053.jpg[/img]

In the field I use a diamond paddle 600 grit or Lansky Turn box kit. Usually I just use the paddle and lightly knock the bur off.
[img]http://i840.photobucket.com/albums/zz325/geronki2/2011/P5180058-1.jpg[/img]

Total edge reprofiling: Can take up to 2 hours.
Edge maintenance. Less then 10 minutes to same results as above. In the field the same time. (this can vary depending on the damage to the edge and DONT STOP UNTIL YOU FEEL THE BURR)

Reasons I started with this low angle and constant low angle.
Well here is a video.
http://www.youtube.com/user/ewerstruly#p/c/299E614F6D3C94DD/6/u4rDIFFyXVk
It requires less force to cut through material.

and I read the book
The Razor Edge Book of Sharpening.
Here is a website where you can get the book.
http://www.razoredgesystems.com/products/books

DMT stones will make the process much faster IMO and of course, this is my process for my needs. I convex certain knives, but EDC and hunting knives are as thin as possible. Your needs may vary, but remember when sharpening.....GET THE BURR!

Before stropping, which means of sharpening do you use? I am looking af a Lansky universal system, but don't know if it is the way to go.
And how do you like the Boss Jack? I am considering buying that one. From what I understand it is in stock on the Busse order page...