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Re: Knife Sharping [Re: SkunkHunter] #589122 09/07/11 10:25 AM
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marthinus Offline
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I plainly suck at convexing any edge. Really do, so I do a standard V grind at a low angle so that I can easily apply a micro bevel with ceramic rods much like the Idahone ceramic sharpener being discussed or a lansky diamond paddle. Same principles would apply if the grind was convexed (in my ind at least). I have convexed the kitchen knives etc with a rig I build that I use to make knives with as well, but the problem is the finest grit I have been able to find (others on order) is P100 and the shops think that is classified as FINE sandpaper!

This is how it started out, a bit more refined and neater at the moment.
[Linked Image from i150.photobucket.com]

I am experimenting a bit in convexing an edge on a normal benchstone. Simple principles are to start at a low angle, and increase the angle slightly as one goes through the grits, and then strop. Heck knows if I am getting it right.

The only main issue with the Idahone or most V sharpeners out there is not to let the tip role over the stone, this will cause it to become blunt. That is the only tip I can give here from experience.

Re: Knife Sharping [Re: marthinus] #589123 09/07/11 11:00 AM
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sf45acp Offline OP
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Thanks all for your experiences on the fine art of knife sharping. I greatly appreciate the input and love learning new techniques. When I picked up the ceramic rod kit, I also picked up a strop with a compound. If I was at home, I would give the name of the compound. The strop is a rough side out lamb skin glued onto a holding 10"x1.5" piece of wood. When stropping do I need to be concerned about the number of swipes back and forth? If the blades were low $$$ I would not ask but these are my Yard, Rat, and soon to be Busse blades. Thanks again folks.


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Re: Knife Sharping [Re: sf45acp] #589124 09/07/11 11:39 AM
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marthinus Offline
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Mainly try to remove any last burrs on the strop so go even amount of passes on each side on the strop.

I go low angle first with moderate pressure, then as I increase the angle slightly with lighter pressure and finally wit barely the pressure of the blade itself at steeper angle to remove any last burrs.

Re: Knife Sharping [Re: marthinus] #589125 09/07/11 12:53 PM
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,I like your creativity Marty! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif" alt="" />


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Re: Knife Sharping [Re: Private Klink] #589126 09/07/11 01:32 PM
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cazio Offline
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,I like your creativity Marty! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif" alt="" />

+1 Very creative, whatever gets it done. With that kind of creativity you will be moving up the ladder fast at the new job.


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Re: Knife Sharping [Re: cazio] #589127 09/07/11 02:28 PM
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marthinus Offline
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Thanks for the kind words guys!

Re: Knife Sharping [Re: marthinus] #589128 09/07/11 04:06 PM
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gun dog Offline
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If it works who cares what you do. I have seen lots of strange ways of sharpening.


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Re: Knife Sharping [Re: gun dog] #589129 09/07/11 04:23 PM
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Horn Dog Offline
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If it works who cares what you do. I have seen lots of strange ways of sharpening.

That's it. You know how I got started doing convex edges? I bought a cheap Harbor Freight belt sander to do my machetes for yard work. But with the platen in place, there was too much chatter and vibration to do a smooth edge. So I removed the platen. I soon noticed that the edges I ground on my machetes chopped and slashed much better and the edges held up well, too. Because the belt would flex, these edges were convex. Then I read about the expensive Falknivens and Bark Rivers with their convex grinds. I realized that I could do that myself with some practice. And I did.


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Re: Knife Sharping [Re: Horn Dog] #589130 09/07/11 05:02 PM
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I think, and this goes with any sharpening system, that you generally want roughly the same number strokes per side. That keeps the edges roughly symetrical. Unless of course, asymetrical is what you're going for... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />


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Re: Knife Sharping [Re: marthinus] #589131 09/09/11 09:12 PM
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Flux Offline
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Quote
I plainly suck at convexing any edge. Really do, so I do a standard V grind at a low angle so that I can easily apply a micro bevel with ceramic rods much like the Idahone ceramic sharpener being discussed or a lansky diamond paddle. Same principles would apply if the grind was convexed (in my ind at least). I have convexed the kitchen knives etc with a rig I build that I use to make knives with as well, but the problem is the finest grit I have been able to find (others on order) is P100 and the shops think that is classified as FINE sandpaper!

This is how it started out, a bit more refined and neater at the moment.
[Linked Image from i150.photobucket.com]

I am experimenting a bit in convexing an edge on a normal benchstone. Simple principles are to start at a low angle, and increase the angle slightly as one goes through the grits, and then strop. Heck knows if I am getting it right.

The only main issue with the Idahone or most V sharpeners out there is not to let the tip role over the stone, this will cause it to become blunt. That is the only tip I can give here from experience.

Wow, not that is some real DIY goodness right there!! I love it.


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Re: Knife Sharping [Re: Flux] #589132 09/09/11 09:13 PM
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Flux Offline
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And thank you Horn Dog for explaining that you can use a ceramic rod on a convex edge. I've always wondered, but never wanted to try.


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Re: Knife Sharping [Re: Flux] #589133 09/11/11 07:54 PM
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and the quest for the perfect edge continues.


Any day I'm above the grass and I'm not a zombie is a good day! JYD#138

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