Today, I picked up a Savage Rascal, a youth single-shot, bolt-action 22 Lr rifle.

This is likely going to replace my Ruger 10/22 TD as my pack rifle. Reason: Two pounds lighter (Ruger 10/22 TD = 4.67 lbs. Rascal = 2.66 lbs), a twentieth of the moving parts (less likely to fail) and it is bolt action, which reduces the report it makes when fired with a silencer (pure speculation, since I haven't fired the Rascal suppressed).

This rifle will be heavily modified.

I am in the brainstorming phase, which is why I am posting this now before I start cutting, drilling, modifying etc etc. I want to turn it into an easy to disassemble rifle. I have a few ideas but am hoping you fellows may have some ideas.

Here are some pics to give you an idea of what I am working with.







As you can see, the Rascal is a much smaller package. For that size/weight advantage I am giving up the semi-auto. I am fine with that. I don't miss <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

After holding it disassembled, my first instinct it to make some sort of quick release screws so it can slide down and be stored in the way I am holding it in the pic below. There are two hex screws that hold the metal to the synthetic stock. If I go with this option, I will likely cut a slot in the top of the stock so the trigger housing can tuck into it for a bit of protection and space saving.



Option 2: Cut stock and attach a folding stock. This would be pretty simple, but wouldn't be as short folded as the above option. However, it would offer better protection of the innards than the first option.

Option 3: Create a takedown of sorts. Since the barrel is the same piece of steel as the chamber, bolt housing etc etc, it would be more of a takedown stock. I would cut the stock at the trigger hand grip area. This may be the most difficult to get right. But, I have ideas.

If I put a slot and grove into a pneumatic coupling, I can get it attached and detached in record time without the stock wiggling or twisting.



The entire stock is hollow. Here are some pics of it to help you come up with any ideas of you are so inclined.





The buttplate on the stock is held in by the sling lug. I will be changing that to some form of quick opening system so I can use the inside as storage space.

I ordered a Leupold FX-II Ultralight 2.5x20mm scope today as well. According to their respective companies' websites' specs, the scope and rifle will come to 3.06 lbs. Add some scope rings and a lightweight sling and I am looking at less than 3.5 lbs for the entire rig. That's a pound lighter than the Ruger with no accessories.

So, any suggestions?

I say go with the folding stock for the same reason you mentioned above. Gotta protect those guts.

How long is the barrel? Can it be shortened?

Great idea, by the way. Your brainstorming is contagious.

Just looked it up. Guess that barrel is short as its going to get.

Just measured it. From the tip of the barrel to the back of the chamber is exactly 16 inches. I always thought the law stated the barrel begins after the chamber, which would make this rifle illegal. I guess I was wrong.

To answer your question. Nope. Can't cut it.

The Savage site says the barrel is 16.125". I have no idea where they are getting the extra 0.125 inches.

can't say I'm good enough a shot to go single shot. at minimum I'd want to have a magazine if i went with bolt rifle. tube or detachable. with that said I would recommend a way to easily acces your ammo. not sure what you could do to the stock but I would look and either drilling some .22lr sized holes in the stock to stick ammo in or a way to attach ammo right to the stock. placement would be depending on getting to the ammo as efficiently as possible. four or five snug holes in the forend might let you use a thumb nail to pull out a round of the good stuff in a hurry if needed.

as for take down and storage it does look like a cutout for the trigger section would be the way to go. as for holding the two pieces together I would probably epoxy (or some platic bonding glue) velco strips that could wrap around the forend and the stock. with your leather working skills you can maybe do straps and rivet them to the stock the add snaps or something. also could maybe just make a strap for the forend and a sleeve with a strap for the stock. this could double as a way to close the stock and hold the reciever end to the stock. or maybe just do a sleeve for the whole thing.

IF I remember what Architect said, the barrel length is measured from the muzzle to the bolt face when the action is closed. OR just close the action, shove a dowel rod or something similar down the bore and mark where the muzzle ends on your stick. Then just remove it and measure.

JJ, could you make a kydex cover for the trigger housing?

1. Inlet the stock so you can heat and bend the bolt handle down at a sharp angle, making the knob end almost pointing straight down.
2. Is it possible (after bending the bolt handle) to drill a hole letting the entire action/barrel slide into the stock from the butt end and stick out through the pistol grip area into the barrel channel (forestock).

Here is the measured barrel. From the bolt face to the tip of the barrel is 16 inches. I didn't use the most accurate way to measure, but there is no way I am missing an eight of an inch.

The small hole the 16 inch marker is pointing at is a hole for unjamming a casing from the chamber.

Interesting idea.

JJ, does the hook end of the tape measure move at all?