To be fair, weight is only ONE factor of many in how well a blade can chop.

Ultimately, blade geometry plays a major part in this equation as evidenced by Horn Dog's Ontario Camp Machete vs. Busse FBM

Make Your Machete High Performace!

That seems like it would be light and sweet. Are you stripping? I guess that you would. If so, maybe you can do it by hand (sandpaper strips) so that you don't lose too much metal when you round off the saber grind transition

I wish all the blades were full flat or convex. But I do like the shallower sabers.

Yeah, I'd be stripping the blade before removing any metal.

I like your idea of removing it by hand with sandpaper because I don't want to remove any more metal than it takes to make it convex. If I used a low grit paper it wouldn't take forever to remove the metal and then I'd likely just have it bead blasted to finish it.

I was thinking that sandpaper backed by neoprene (mousepad material) and backed up by a piece of hardwood would do it. I have used that method to convex knife edges by hand. I clamp the knife in and use it as if it was a file. It doesn't take that long to do a 22" machete by hand.

How about a red scotchbrite wheel on a drill to give it the finial finish? That would be sweet.

Good suggestions, I think that method will work just fine for this regrind.

I'm still not sure yet if I want to do a ghetto satin or bead blasted finish.

I like the looks of the bead blasted finish better and it does help with oiling the blade and having it stay put.

The only reason I'd probably go with a satin at this point is if I thought it would reduce friction and increase performance. I've been told that there isn't much difference between bead blasted or satin in this regard, but I am no expert there.