Yes the barrel is "almost" free floated, but the stock touches on the barrel in several places. Now that I know how a 17 HMR is supposed to shoot, I am not pleased with the accuracy. The Marlin will out shoot it easily. Free floating the barrel and ligtening the trigger pull will help. The screws that hold the action in the stock have very then shallow slots and not one of my screwdrivers will fit them well enough to break them loose. They are super tight. I will give my old gunsmith buddy a call today. He is a silhouette shooter and knows how to do all the tricks to a CZ to make it a tack driver.
It sounds like they have used some "screw tight" or similar epoxy on the action screws....I have had some rifles like that...you need to apply heat to the screw to melt the glue...rather this than strip the screw thread...I use an old iron with the rifle turned upside down in a cradle like I have seen in your photo's...use a bit of metal to interface with the base of the iron and the screw to transfer "heat" into the screw...from your post it seems like they have a "bespoke" screw head as well...usually these screws are "allen key" jobs because they need to be "torqued up" at identical settings ( ideally that is...but often as not it does'nt matter )...I have a very useful torque wrench done by Anzsutch (sp?)for action screws...it can take various different allen key type attachments...they are worth getting if you have a lot of rifles and I expect your guy has one too.
However from your post I cannot tell if these screws are standard or a bespoke type but I would not try to loosen them without the proper bayonet fitting. If you post a pic of the screws I can tell you.
While he has the action out I would have a look at the trigger as well and get that set the way you like it.
All rifles have some teething problems Vic...I am sure it will be tack driving in no time... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />
Edited to add....Vic, if your chap has a bore scope use it to check the barrel out...on factory rifles there can be all manner of "gunk" in the barrel for shipping etc...sometimes they need a total clean and de-greasing...then I usually like to apply a little moly paste to a patch and moly the barrel a little then dry it out using other dry patches...even if shooting copper bullets...or lead...it seems to allow the barrel to settle better...I use Frankford Arsenal Bore Moly...you need a few shots to let the bore settle...then it seems to smooth out to nice low extreme spreads when chrono'ing the rounds for group development. Good Luck <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crossfingers.gif" alt="" />
