I have used a product called Never Dull. They sell it in the automotive section at walmart. Comes in a little silver and black can.
This may take your rust off. I have used it successfully to remove rust from sundry items, including blued forearms without ruining the surrounding bluing.

Great tip Roo - I may check it out! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> Tom

Nevr dull is the stuff! I've used lots of it to get the rust off my harley and some corrosion on the aluminum castings as well. If it was a stripped blade and rust on the flats Nevr dull is exactly the stuff I would be using on it.

Tuf Cloth is great stuff - I just wipe my blades down w/ it, let it dry, and store them in the sheaths. My 1095/5160/SR77 blades haven't shown a hint of rust.

Make sure and let us know how your sheaths turned out!

I have a kydex sheath on my DM and it did cut at the ResC a little - I just heated up the handle a little tiny bit and molded it to fit better. I'm sure the same can be done to the mouth of the sheath though.

Ask Leatherface or Rainwalker or Jeepsrock.

And, Welcome to the Yard!

If you want to post pics of your sheath, it might be easier to offer you advice. If you can contact the person who made the sheath, I would do that as well, especially before removing any material.

For res-c I use blue painters tape (typically one layer) around the edge of the res-c (and the blade for the initial forming) so that the Kydex does not bite too hard on the handle. One way to set the tension on a res-c type knife is to have the Kydex tension point where your index finger goes on the bottom of the handle as opposed to on the sides of the handle (see the picture 1 below). The tension is set not on the sides of knife where the Kydex comes up but where the red arrow is below (see pic 2 how the Kydex bends around to trap the handle). Note, this is one of several ways to accomplish this. Other makers may do it differently.

You mentioned the mouth is flared at the moment. You can re-mold the mouth of your sheath with a hair dryer or better yet a heat gun. If the mouth is screwing up the res-c, try putting a layer of tape around the sides of the res-c, one layer should do. Then heat up the mouth of the sheath, focus the heat to the mouth only, don't heat up any rivets and apply the heat only where you need it. Once the kydex can be formed, use a glove and mold the Kydex with your fingers trying to apply even pressure to both sides of the mouth. Using my method, the tension will be set where the red arrow is in my picture below. Keep pressure held for a couple of minutes then leave the knife for about 10 minutes to cool. Pull the knife out, remove the tape and see if the fit is where you want it. If it's not, then repeat the process, maybe you need 2 layers of tape on the side. I would try not to remove any Kydex unless you have to, because you can't put it back. It's kind of tough to put in to words to explain this without seeing a pic of your sheath, but hopefully others can chime in if I am not being clear. Post a pic and I will see if I can offer any clearer advice.

Jeeps - the TAK is the only O. RAT that I don't have yet...

Great explanation - I knew one of you guys would come through!

J33psrOck your advise sounds great to me. There's not much I would add. The Res-c can be a little tricky. I pretty much do the same thing in molding kydex for it except that for the blade a make a fitted thin card board sleeve that can be removed and reused. The only other thing I would add would be to make sure the edges of the kydex are smooth and don't have any sharp or rough edges. I usually finish mine with a fine scotch brite buffing, after sanding and smoothing.

Also Tuff Cloth rocks. I've had to clean deep pitting from some of my dads old tools. I usually sand or buff or rub out the rust with a thin thin oil and then, clean and apply Tuff Cloth it protects excellently. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

Rainwalkers point about sanding down the edge of the Kydex that rubs on the handle is great. Rounding that inside lip of the sheath is key as well.

Jeeps, that ridiculous avatar cracks me up so much, I have trouble paying serious attention to your posts. I know, I wear a melon with horns, but it can't touch David Hasselhof in a melon helmet. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

He is one of the all time masters of cheesiness. He wears his helmet proudly.

Drunken David is the man.

That edge is raw steel so you will get staining and rust if you do not oil it. I would simply strop it to remove the stain. If you do not have a strop I would use fine steel wool or do my favorite...take it chopping to shine up the edge.

Dan