they're not stout, just full-figured. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

man am i getting excited for the release... I think Dan is gonna really 'bring it' very soon.

looks like we have a bunch of things looming on the horizon...

Dumpster Mutt LE
Dogfather LE

plus sage/tan/colored etc. versions of: Hook-S6-Mutt-Keeper

-Personally, I am going for 2 DMutt LE's, and maybe 1 Dofgather LE

I am going to be really bummed if they release those tan M6's anytime soon. I have been wanting one of those and finally bit the bullet and grabbed a black one off the exchange. I am pumped up the DFLE though, I will jump on that one.

Tan S6? Niiiice... want one! (Grey blade though!)

Now that is a pipe dream, <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

I agree about some of the above remarks about the handle size. I am not so concerned about whether the handles were supposed to have been gone or not. But, I feel the original DM's handle just felt a tad too small. Laid on top of the Yard Keeper or Res-C Howler grips, the Basic grip has the same dimensions and size, but it must be contoured and shaped a tad different because it sure feels a tad smaller - and the Yard Keeper / Res-C Howler were a little small for me. I tend to struggle with large gloves and usually need XL gloves.
However, the larger Res-C grip like on the Yard Guard / Camp Tramp / S6 / etc. I think would be too big for the DM.

A term I use a lot is "Grip Area". I define the grip area as the area between the two peaks at the belly of the handle.

On the larger Res-C handle, I measure about: 4.125"
On the smaller Res-C handles, I would say about: 3.625"

There is a half inch difference which is a big difference when it comes to knife handles.

The large one is great. I have never heard anyone complain about it's size.

The smaller one would do very well with just 0.125" more. 1/8" doesn't seem like much, but it is significant in a knife handle.

So, like 3.75" for the small Res-C handles.

I keep contimplating taking my Dremel to one of my small Res-C handles to see if I can reshape it. But, I am concerned I may make a mess with it (???).

+2 - No tan Basic handles to my knowledge!

Dan always seemed to want to stay with simple and black. But, didn't some of the Blade West knives have some color?

Personally, in regards to Res-C, I don't like tan.

...... And I ALWAYS prefer a satin blade. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />


With mica^+a (got to watch my language <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> ), I like tan quite a bit. But, DEFINITELY with satin blades then!
Same with sage. But, I like tan more than sage.

As much as I don't care for black coated blades, I really don't like tan, gray or sage coated blades <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" /> . But, to each their own.

.

Since I have three Ratmandu's and since I still don't have a DF since I have been waiting and holding out for a DFLE, I don't know how excited I am about the DMLE.
I love the RMD. And I actually sometimes prefer Mica^+a over Res-C.
But, I am sure I will have to have at least one DMLE - I love satin LE'S. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

But also, if there is one thing I would change about the RMD, it would be to make the handle lighter. ...... Not that the RMD feels too handle heavy. But, I just would prefer the handle to be a little lighter. I love the shape and feel of the RMD and HRLM handle. Basic Res-C handles are not as nice to me as those two except in weight.
I have suggested skeletonizing the micarta handles. I personally think this would put many of the smaller to mid-sized Swamp Rat knives in a nicer/higher league of knife.

See the following link for my ideas: Concept Rats!!! - Rat Jack & Bog Dog II

But, that is more of a Swamp Rat forum topic.... (???).

--------

Anyway, am I the only one who noticed something in Dan's picture of the DMLE that I don't think I have seen anyone comment on...... If I am right, I think I really like it! (???) But, I think it may just be an illusion.

In the picture, it appears that the DMLE has a ZERO grind!!! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crossfingers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif" alt="" />






But, Dan didn't mention it in the description. I would think he would have mentioned it if it were true. A full flat zero grind is not easy to do on a full flat grind. - Actually probably fairly hard.

.....And of course hard for anybody else to sharpen and keep full flat. I think I would be interested to try. I am sure it would start to convex over time, but I like convex, so starting of full flat and becoming convex wouldn't bother me. It would probably be an EXTREME slicer if you could keep it sharp (???).
But, in addition to being harder to make, the edge strength wouldn't be as strong. Jerry's knife edges are usually VERY obtuse. This would be an extreme polar opposite for edges. So, I am fairly dubious it is what I am talking about (???).

This may just all be an optical illusion or just an unsharpened proto (??????) <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />.


---------

It appears the choil is better than the original DM, but I still would prefer it to be even higher and more inline with the index finger recess in the main grip and I wish they would bring that choil in closer to the handle and add a little more blade edge..... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif" alt="" /> ( - .... more like the Bog Dog and SS4!)

.

I don't have the older straight handled Satin Jack and my SJTAC is quite a bit different. But, I do have the SR Desert Jack which is basically the Swamp Rat version of the straight handled Satin Jack. The Desert Jack has a more curvy handle, so may not weight exactly the same. And it is possible that the blade thicknesses may be different between the Straight handled Satin Jack and the Desert Jack (????)

But, here are some specs:

Desert Jack (stripped).= 10.0 ounces; .175” thick; 6.0” blade; 11.25” oal
Ratmandu (G10).........= 11.0 ounces; .190" thick; 5.3125" blade; 10.5" oal
Ratmandu (micarta)....= 10.0 ounces; .190" thick; 5.3125" blade; 10.5" oal
DM....................= 9.0 ounces; .268" thick; 5.25" blade; 9.75" oal

The blade thickness of my Desert Jack is thinner. Plus, the handle height is less. I am sure these two factors pretty much account for the 6" bladed Desert Jack weighing the same as the 5.3125" bladed RMD.

Again, I don't feel that the handle weight is a big issue in the case of the RMD and HRLM. I just feel it would be a little better if they skeletonized the tang.
Personally, I do not like the excessively heavy handle on the M6. With much larger blades like say a Rat Mastiff, the handle weight of the M6 might be OK. But, I think the balance of the S6 is WAY better than the M6. To me, the M6 REALLY neads something done to the weight of the handle. Maybe it's just me (???).

I like the handle shape of the RMD a LOT. I would NOT want to change the shape of the handle. I would actually like to see it more often! So, skeletonizing is the probably the best option I know of.
A tapered tang would also reduce weight as a second option. But, I think skeletonizing might be better.

The RMD is pretty much the same blade as the MASSIVELY thick DM. But, notice the RMD weighs more. The difference in oal is due to the tiny little handle on the massively thick DM.

The DM weighs a LOT in the blade. And considering the DM is NOT a chopper, it is probably too blade heavy. The DMLE would likely be a big improvement.
But, to me, the RMD is a much nicer knife than the DM for my uses. But, there is something cool and unique about overly thick and chunky DM.


.