For true field results, that will be a fairl EXTENSIVE and time consuming comparison.

I would be curious about the results.

My first assumptions on primitives progressing to stones from fire-hardened tips would be longevity and reusibility of their weapons and tools. For them, this was a daily, regularly and often reused tool and weapon.

Vs. Survival would (generally) only require short term use and be more about getting by until back to civilization.

I would think the efforts for most people to make a stone work well at the tip of a spear would be too time consuming for most survival situations (????).

I guess it depends on your view of hypothetical survival and how long and how often you believe you may have to use your weapons.

Or maybe you just happen to stumble across the perfect sharp stone for a spear head (???).

Also, you still have to give some value and consideration to "forfeiting" your knife from you side. A stone wouldn't usually be much of a forfeit.

Indians often had knives at certain times in history. I am not extremely knowledgable on Indian history or other primitive history and I will try to not let movies count <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> . But, I don't recall seeing much info about Indians forfeiting their knives for their spears.

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Vic mentioned this a while back and I have mentioned it as well. I really think there is some value in having the tang just slightly extend from the pommel of the Res-C.

Well put.


Certain knives are going to have certain compromises.

6.5" - 7.5" (maybe/sometimes 8.0") knives seem to have a pretty good balance if still needing to chop. They are not as good at heavy duty chopping as larger knives, but they will still chop. And this size is much more capable at a much larger variety of tasks.

If not needing to chop, I still prefer 4" - 5" blades.

Big 10" blades are really pretty darn narrow focused: chopping. They can muddle through "some" other tasks, but they really aren't too great at most other tasks. 10" and larger blades are just too long, too heavy and too bulky for most knife usage tasks short of chopping and whacking.

I generally think the best two knife combo is a 4"-4.5" knife and a 7" - 8" knife. Both sizes can still do multiple tasks.

Still, if you want the best knife for chopping, it is VERY hard for ANY 7" - 8" bladed knife to compare to a well designed 10" chopping machine like the DF.

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Looks like you have tested the old RD7. The new one would proably fair a little better due to the clip point which would drill easier and also the butt on the current RD7 doesn't have the pointy thing anymore so hammering would be more effective. I'm pleased to see the chopweiler did so well, can't wait to receive mine. Excellent tests and good work bro.

I think one of the first things that pops into our heads when we hear someone lashing a knife onto the end of a stick for a spear is that they are going to chuck it hundreds of feet and take out a buffalo or some such thing. In reality you'd be crazy to try something like that.

When you affix something like the ratweiler or other large knife you place too much weight forward. Most true spear and arrow points that primitive peoples use are small in size. The reason is that they are easy to throw or shoot and don't alter the flight of the spear or arrow dramaticaly.

If I had to lash my knife to use as a spear it wouldn't be for throwing. Rather I have always envisioned it to extend my reach. For example if I were to trap a rather large or dangerous game animal I'd rather lash my knife to the end of a 6 or eight foot branch and dispatch it from a safer distance by jabbing and stabbing.

Spear throwing requires practice and experience to make it successful. I've never really tried to do it with any seriouseness and I probably never will. I don't have the strength in my arms to make the spear fly with any respectable distance.

Another thing to consider is that it might be dangerous to carry a sharpened spear with you. If the ground you're traversing is diffucult the risk of injuring yourself on a sharpened stick might be too great. You may be better off with a 6 foot stick that's rounded on the end to reduce the rish of injury. Then it's a simple matter of lashing the knife when its time to hunt. It literally took me a minute to affix the Ratweiler to the stick, 4 minutes with the Yard Guard, and I spent 10 minutes with the RD-7.

To be honest if I were to be placed in some survival situation that forced me to rely on primitive weapons to acquire food and protection I'd fashion a bow to dispatch game. Then if necessary affix my knife on the end of a stick to stab them from a distance.

You are indeed correct, it was the old RD-7. I'd like to try the new RD-7 and see how it would stack up. The new one looks to have several improvements that make it more functional. However, there's a few more knives to buy before I get a new RD-7.

personally for me a two knife combo would be a hatchet/hawk and a 4 to 5 inch. I'd much rather have my RatManDu and Crash Axe than one 7 ich general purpose blade.

Great review! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

cool review
good job

another reason I've read is because many animal hides are tough and thick, and even with a hardened wood tip it my not penetrate through, or make a cut with slashing actions; where with a metal-sharp blade at the end of a pole, you have a better chance to pierce or cut. I've never done this with either but it did make me think. Nothing I've read said or suggested throwing it as a javelin, but more of a spearing action.

Great review. Thanks!

Here's a few weights (all in ounces):
Dog Father - 20.1
Ratweiler (old school) - 20.1
Ratweiler Chopper - 19.1
Mischief 6 - 16.2
Scrapper 6 - 12.7

Great review!

I think the Res-C helped in the lasing since it would give a bit allowing it to conform to the shape of the spear handle. Plus ist natural grippyness would help! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />