Aurora or Koster? Or another?
For me I find the Scandi edge is not as durable or long lasting as I would like...and I have some good Scandi bushcrafters with good heat treats...they do easily "come back" with ceramic rod passes though...in fact you almost need to use them like a butcher uses his knives...just keep topping up the edge...but compared to a "convex" edge they score a bit lower...forinstance....the idea that you sharpen them keeping the Scandi edge flat against a stone is not for me a durable edge....most grinds give a grind angle at around 12 to 16 degrees either side...usually on a new blade more down around the 12 degree to 14 degree level...this gives under 30 degrees as a total which is a very fine scary sharp edge which can roll...so I find the best results are to use this angle as a secondary bevel and use a primary bevel with a Spyderco sharpmaker set on a 40 degree or 20 degree either side. Using the white rods and topping up the edge does work quite well but the thin 30 degree edge from the grind can roll too easy for me. This is true of Infi and any other steel...too thin is too thin.
Maybe HD can comment if he has done a test on edge types....
For me I prefer the convex edge on my RMD or my Hattori Cowry X knife to my Scandi edges on my Alan Wood or Mick Wardell bushcrafters....once profiled well this seems to last a lot longer in the field....particularly on "rowling tasks" with the tip...or splitting bone on animal food preperation...
If you bring the true Scandi grind down to a 20 degree angle the blade looks "wrong" and you have little clearance before you hit the flat sides...which does'nt make for easy slicing.
Plus on a top up basis...for a convex edge it is as easy to carry leather treated with stropping compound and use this pulled tight over your thigh or over a survival tin as it is to top up with ceramic rods.
The only difference is the issue of restoring an edge....carrying grit paper and a mouse mat set up is a very temporary system...the paper does'nt last that long...but a leather strop can convex a primary and secondary flat grind so you can recreate a convex edge...it just takes a good bit longer....but I expect a convex edge will much more readily withstand abuse so recreating one should not be needed. It never has been for me.