So what does everyone use to keep their knives sharp? I have nothing yet and thinking of purchasing either a spyderco sharpmaker or some wet stones and finish off with a light strop. What's your take on the sharpmaker? What are some good stones? I know DMT offers a 2 piece set like fine/very fine, etc. For on the go, I'll probably get the DMT 2 sided diafold. I'm trying to keep cost down so I can save for SY knives . <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> Where are some good places to buy/order them? Thanks.

Norton waterstones, 220,1000,4000 & 8000 grit.

Takes practice but I am improving!

I also have a belt sander setup with everything from 220x to 9micron & a strop belt for large jobs! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I use a sharpmaker, religiously, on my smaller knives. I generally strop my larger knives after use, and then run them over a flat stone every once in a while. The sharpmaker base, when flipped over, has cutouts so that you can place both rods side by side and use them like one big flat stone. I'd highly suggest the Sharpmaker, and look in to a strop as well. On Coldone's advice, I've been using Lee Valley "Veritas Green" honing compound on my strop - it works great.

I'm a slow poster. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> I'll be getting a belt sander as well, when space allows (I'm in a small rental right now!). The Sharpmaker is great for touchups, but definitely not for reprofiling an edge!

You can't go wrong with the sharpmaker. I have never heard anyone say anything bad about it. You don't really need a diamond unless you do a lot of reprofiling and then you only need a coarse one. Get a Sharpmaker and one of the tiny little EZ Lap pen sharpeners and you will be set.

I won't be trying to reprofile any edges. Mainly just small touch-ups and keeping a nice edge. I've heard there are some disadvantages to the sharpmaker because of the fixed angles, 30 and 40 degrees, do you guys ever have trouble with that?

I ask the dogs the same question a few months ago when I joined the forum. Thanks to their advice I now use the Sharpmaker (I did go ahead and buy the ultra fine and diamond hones for it), a Lee Valley strop and stropping compound and a final wipe down with the Sentry Solutions Tuf-Cloth.

It's usually not a problem. You can always use the hones freehand to match the blade if needed.

I use a Belt Sander and Lansky for most stuff. From time to time I break out the files and stones when needed though. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

+1 on the sharpmaker, my wife got me mine the first year we were married, she is a keeper.

You pretty much said it all right there. Because of the fixed angles, you may have no choice but to re-profile your edge.

My experience with Busse/SR/SY is that from knife to knife the grind angle is inconsistent. On one you maybe able to throw it on the sharpmaker and immediately put a bevel on it. On the next one, it might have a thicker edge, and require a lot of material removal.

As diceman already mentioned, the sharpmaker is not good for material removal mainly because the stones are not coarse enough. You will literally spend HOURS removing metal if the edge is not set up right.

All that stuff said, I think the sharpmaker is great. You just have to be aware of its limitations, and know when to use something different.

I would recommend the Gatco Edgemate system. You can sharpen pretty much any knife and reprofile any knife as well. Very small SAK knives and blades that have a lot of curve to them (such as kerambits) would be the exception. The system also sharpens serrations. I would recommend buying the ultra fine and ceramic finishing hone. This system used with a strop or a 1200 grit or more ceramic steel will keep any blade in top shape. The learning curve on a system like this is very short and takes about 2 hours to master.
I was able to get my Gatco edgemate Pro on sale for $22. The replacment hones run about $10-15 a peice.