'scuze my ignorance - how do the flat grinds of the Mutt LE compare (cuttin wise) with the Saber cut of the Dumpster Mutt...I won't be choppin as much as "fine cuttin' on occasion"

thanks

I think my DFLE came a little sharper than my DF did. But you can make either one scary sharp. They both slice and dice just fine, but the LE is lighter handling. Here is my reprofiled DF.

I much much prefer the flat grinds. I sold my MuttCG because it was blunt but the MuttLE with a bit thinner stock and full flat grind makes for a much better slicer. The best slicer in the small scrappers is the YKCG but the MuttLY is almost as good a slicer and since it has a much thicker back it is a lot tougher.

Blades are triangles and the thinner the triangle the sharper the edge.

You're right, Unsub, the DFLE has the potential to be sharper, and mine came sharper, but I've never had a problem with the performance of the saber ground DF once I reprofiled the edge. It's not nearly as obtuse as the saber ground DMCG, which required taking lot of steel off to make it slice well.

They can both be made equally "Sharp". But, sharp and "cuttin'" ability are two different things.
Sometimes equally sharp is effectively equal.
Sometimes equally sharp still will have varying results depending on edge profile and blade profile (edge grind/angle and primary grind/angle).

If two blades are equally sharp, but have different grinds, they can still be comparable for certain types of cutting tasks.
But, depending on how or what you are cutting, "Edge" profile and geometry can be a factor first, then followed by the primary blade grind being a second or third factor in cutting ability.

Are you edge cutting or slice (through) cutting?

The deeper into material you cut, the more a factor the edge profile and primary grind profile becomes. (... and blade thickness...)

Also, different types of material will be a factor in how well different edge and blade profiles, thicknesses, anlges, etc. perform.

If you are cutting paper, the thin and/or flimsy material such as paper, the material will easily roll out of the way of a blade. Then the sharpness of the edge is most important and edge and blade profiles and thicknesses are not as relevant.
But, if you are cutting thicker material that isn't as flimsy and doesn't roll out of the way - such as cardboard. Then the thickness of the blade, edge profile, and primary grind profile all start becoming more of a factor.

Notice a thin box cutter slips right through cardboard.

You can make cartain thick knives just as sharp at the edge as a box cutter blade, but a .25" thick blade doesn't "slip" through cardboard.

Depends a lot on what you are cutting....

The full height flat grinds with thinner stock can ultimately be made to be better "slicers" - through cutting. But, there are always compromises.

Personally, I don't see much value in having SR-77 over .25" thick - other than some "Cool" factor in the hand. SR-77 has proven to be plenty tough that it doesn't need to be so thick.

I don't have a DF. I have the DFLE because I wanted satin and as it turns out, I am very happy with the weight, feel and balance. However, as supported by Vic's testing, heavier knives like the DF and the FFBM are just capable of delivering more force into certain types of chopping tasks. So, fair consideration for a big chopper if you want a very heavy dedicated chopper that is pretty darn heavy for carry.

But, as much as I will probably never get rid of my DM, I don't see ANY value in a 5.25" blade of SR-77 being as thick as the DM is. I would recommend the DMLE as a user over the DM. But, the DM (once stripped especially <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> ) is just somehow pretty cool! - although not the best slicer in the world.
The factory edge on the DM can be thinned a LOT. And with a good edge profile, it can still cut pretty well .... But, the thinner DMLE will be better for most cutting tasks on a 5.25" blade.


There are a LOT of common cutting tasks that are not effected by the full blade and where the edge is the only factor in cutting. Like cutting string or similar thin cuts. In these types of tasks, edge sharpness is most important which can always be made equal with same steel and same heat treatment and followed by edge profile which even with thicker blade and different primary grinds can be reasonably close.


.

Vic - I absolutely love your reprofiled DogFather!! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

When I picked up my DFCG it felt dead ,the weight was to heavy and the balance was not great. I soon sold it. I knew that the DFLE would be a bit lighter but that 4 ounces makes a huge difference in feel. It is not quite a Gambler custom fightin bowie but it is a [censored] site better than before.

When I look at Vics CG though I almost wish I had been more patient. He really brought the best out of that blade.

As far as I am concerned the DFLE is nearly perfect. All it needs is a talon hole.
The weight is as much as you need to do any sort of chopping without being to heavy to pack or even EDC and the balance is perfect. I even really like the simple style much much better than the FBM's.

As far as I'm concered, the DFLE is perfect. Why would it need a talon hole? It has a hole in the handle for a lanyard already. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

Some people want to make a D-Guard with lanyard (???????).

I don't need or want a D-Guard nor do I have any desire to strap my knives to a stick, but that is just me and my opinion.
As with the current routine: to each his own....

I HATE the talon holes on smaller knives such as the AD,Meaners and such.
On larger knives, meh.... I don't care about the hole, but I do care about the shape and size of the guards and choils.

I have "Ranted" against Talon holes on the Busse forums before, but although there are a few that agree with me, most people just seem to get all upset that I have disagreed with anything Jerry created (????).

Obviously, just my opinion.... But, I do feel most of the guards are way too big - especially on many of the smaller knives, but also on larger knives.

I really have no problems with the guard and choil on the DF. For a knife of it's size, I am fine with the current set-up.

But, on mid-sized knives like the Yard Guard and S6, I feel the guards were too big. I ground the choil on my YG back into the guard of my YG for a better fit and feel, but now I have to deal with an over-sized choil and the blade edge is still further away from the grip than I would prefer.

I hope the Scrap-Weiler (if it comes) has a smaller guard and blade edge in closer. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crossfingers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crossfingers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crossfingers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crossfingers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crossfingers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crossfingers.gif" alt="" />


If there is a usable choil (on smaller kniveS), I like a very small guard so that if you are holding the handle in a normal grip the blade edge is still as close as possible - over the finger choil.

If there is not a usable choil, I like the blade in as close and tight as reasonably possible for up close work.

I am very big on wanting the blade edge up as close to the handle as possible if there is no usable choil.

And if there is a choil, I like the choil right up close to the normal grip. The SS4 and Bog Dog were done right (IMO). But, the AD, Meaner and quite a few others could be GREATLY improved upon (IMO). I would much rather my AD didn't have a talon hole and had a very small guard (with a tighter radius at the index finger) and very small choil - about .25" total or so. But, the gap from index finger to blade edge is about .75" - way to far (IMO).

I like the Yard Keeper and I like it more than my Howler Gen2. I like the Res-C Howler/YK without a usable choil. But, I would have prefered the guard and non-functional choil both also be MUCH smaller to bring the edge in closer to the handle.

Currently, the blade edge on the YKLE is about 1.0" from the index finger or about .75" from the Res-C. I would have like to have seen this area closer to .25" from the Res-C (.5" from the grip) and believe that .25" would be very easy to achieve with a sufficient guard of say a little over .125" and a sufficient choil of a little under .125" - or so. That would bring the blade edge .5" closer to the grip which I consider significant. - My opinion.

Luckily, on the HRLM, "assuming" you want a functional choil, they created a non-functional choil that was entirely way too small to be a functional choil, but that could be enlarged toward the handle and made just right if you want a functioning choil.

But, if you don't want a functioning choil, the factory choil was WAY too big! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif" alt="" />

Luckily for me, I was fine with grinding in a functioning choil on the HRLM. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />



...... sorry... that was probably a rant - off on a tangent no less... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/paperbag.gif" alt="" /> .

.

I know what you mean about wanting a small gap between the blade and the handle.
Especially on a small knife that inch of blade is very useful. The choil on the Muttly is big because the Busse Basic handles are quite small.

I want a talon hole because front lanyards are much safer and better for comp style chopping. It makes a great lashing point and a neat way to hold the knife in the sheath. This is the picture of a sheath I sent to Rainwalker and it has the talon hole pin for a retention method. I am getting this sheath without the talon hole pin but with a frog.


The last thing I would want it for is a D Guard although I would probably try one.
I might make a steel attachable D Guard though I would never attach it because that would be illegal in Canada.

i agree with knife guy there are a lot of variables. i have linton 18 inch bowie that is the sharpest knife i own (or one of). at cutting rope it can out perform my spyderco folders but at through slicing it wouldn't stand a chance