I saw a posting that interested me in firesteels. Afterwards, I began searching for a deal. I didn't see any reviews about one being significantly better than another, so rather than buy a Swedish Army Firesteel (which was my first choice) I decided to be "crafty".

I bought several (ok, 20) 2-1/2 X 1/4 inch firesteel rods on an eBay auction. Then, for a steel, I found what I think was a pretty good source for P-51 can openers (Georgia Outfitters). They're supposed to be made of carbon steel, so I thought the one of the short edges should do fine as a striker/scraper. I visited my local craft store and bought some oval wooden beads and drilled 3/8-inch deep into one end to accommodate the rods and glued them on with 5-minute epoxy (probably not my best choice as, after a couple minutes of mixing, I could only glue about three handles on before the glue hardened too much to use, but eventually, mixing small batched, I got them assembled).

Anyway, at about $1.50 per rod, 20-cents each for beads, and 50-cents each for the strikers, I figure I'm all set -- I got more of these things than I'll ever need, but they were a deal, right? However, I don't seem to have much luck making sparks with the can opener edge. I tried scraping along a hacksaw blade and got some, but the can opener edge just isn't working. Should I try sharpening the edge, or all firesteels not created equal, and/or is there some technique I need to learn? I'd appreciate some suggestions.

Note: I already own an Ultimate Survival Systems Deluxe Tool Kit that includes one of their BlastMatches, but I was interested in developing skill with a more basic system (without actually being uncomfortably primitive).

if a hacksaw blade didnt do it i would have to wonder about the rods.i have had rods that wrent as good as others.

I’ve seen different types of P38s, and some were better quality (and probably different steel) than others. I’ve always had the best firesteel experience using hacksaw blades. You can use a vise (or pliers) to bend them back and forth until they snap to the length you want. Then use some sandpaper or something to shape it. Another tip, instead of holding the firesteel still and moving the striker to strike it, you get better results if you get in close to your tinder, and instead hold the striker steady and move the firesteel away from the tinder (scraping it on the striker) instead. You can get closer to the tinder instead of doing it the other way, and the less distance to the tinder, the hotter the spark will be.

I like big fat firesteels. They last longer, and make larger, hotter sparks. Here’s where you can get 4” x ½” thick ones: http://www.epcamps.com/4in_Flint.html

Here’s a good article on flint and steel, but you may find it useful as well: Tips for Fast Fires with Flint & Steel, by J. Gottfred

Thanks for the responses. I got some sparks with the hacksaw blade; it wasn't a huge shower, but I also could have pushed harder and/or moved it faster. I was however, pushing pretty hard with the P-51 and it just slid down the rod with no effect, but it's edge is thicker than a P-38s and is rolled over smooth, so if I'm supposed to be grinding or shaving material off of the firesteel, then I'll need to put an edge on it. I'm not sure how hard I'm supposed to push or how fast to move along the rod -- that's why I think it may be a technique issue. Of course, it could also be that the firesteel or P-51 steel is sub-par, but I lack the experience to make that determination.

Jim:

This article is very good. I tried a dozen different scrapers this evening based on the idea that "anything will work as long as it is 'hard enough' to scrape shavings from the ferrocerium rod".

Turns out that hardness and sharpness are indeed key. Items that are sharp but not hard will slide down the rod as you described. Items that are hard but not sharp will do the same. Sharpening something soft gave one or two passes of feeble sparks.

The quality of the ferrocerium rods themselves didn't seem to matter as much (the sweedish ones seemed slightly better than the cheap ones attached to the walmart magnesium blocks).

At the end of my test, the toothed side of a hacksaw blade did indeed perform best. Note that carbon steel isn't required and that the likely problem with your can openers is that they're too soft (i.e. steel, but not hardened). Sharpening may give you a few strikes, but will be unreliable for field use.

As far as speed goes, with the right combination of sharpness and hardness, it'll be nearly impossible to not have a major spark-fest.

Of course, as with anything, I could be full of sheep dip... or your rods are impotent. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Thanks for the additional information. I haven't done much yet, except go shopping. I've read that cotton balls with a dab of petroleum jelly make good firestarters, so I bought a big bag of one and jar of the other at Big Lots for a total of $3. I also bought some cheap hacksaw blades at Harbor Freight tools to use for strikers (50 blades for $4). I'll need to use those to develop a bit of practical experience.

I'll probably also buy some used 35mm film canisters on eBay to carry a bit of dry tinder with me. I know, real men don't need to carry tinder, but it sounds like some prepared dry tinder makes this a lot easier to learn.

Thanks Mike, very helpfull info.

Yep, they do. Just don’t add too much PJ, or they’re hard to get started. Something else you can do that I’ve done is add something else to the mixture to help it burn, like fatwood shavings, or magnesium powder. Below is a pic from my PSK showing some “cotton straws”. This can be a convenient and affordable way to carry some cotton and remain waterproof. Just find some really wide (hopefully clear) straws, and cut them to length and melt and pinch the ends together with some pliers or forceps to hold them shut while they cool. You can stash them all over your gear. I have them in PSKs, coat pockets, knife sheaths, water bottle sleeves, etc. They don’t cost a lot like pill fobs, so you can put them everywhere. You can see in the pic that I put fatwood shavings in one straw with the cotton. You can also put spices and some pills in them too.

Kudos, Jim on your experimentation/inventive nature.

However, when it comes to gear that I may be forced to rely upon I usually stick with what works. When it comes to flint/steel I have found those Swedish ('Light My Fire brand') rods to be excellent especially when combined with good tinder.

After years of trial & error I have found that Coghlan's (most of their camping stuff is junk at best) tinder cubes to be the right blend of a waterproof waxy substance combined with thin cotton-like strands/fibers. A completely empty Bic lighter still has enough sparking power to get 'em lit! Of course, YMMV depending on your AO but in rural eastern Kentucky I have had very good luck with the above combo.

For 35 MM film canisters-I get mine at a drug store that process film--and they are free.

Gerald - Howdy and Welcome to the Scrap Yard ! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> Tom