My JYDII lock could use a little of that treatment too Vic. It's not that the engagement is bad enough that I don't trust it, it's just not quite perfect <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

I've been torn over picking up a JYDII in SG2 steel. It would be fun to try the new steel but the regular steel is very, very good. I really like the blade shape too.

Little late on posting, but here are some of my favorites:

I just posted some info in response to Vic's (removed) post about his new SERE 2000, so some of this info about the SERE 2000 is just carried over from there.

The SERE 2000 is probably one of my top 5 folders. The list below isn't in any particular order. But, I have mentioned some things I would change.


SERE 2000 - built like a tank, great blade design and super silky smooth, slick and fast.

I personally don't like the thumb ramp on the SERE 2000. I am thinking of grinding mine off - I am sure I will some day.

Also, I think the handle is thicker than I prefer. I may grind down the G10 scales and contour it for my hand a little as well. But, at least it has a good shape that can be worked with.

I would also smooth out the textured G10 under the clip head. I think too many makers don't consider how much grip is created between the textured scales and the clip heads. I see it a lot and consider it a common problem. I don't mind textured scales, but I don't like the scales textured under the clip head. Causes to much drag and sticking to my pockets when trying to draw your knife.

Another common issue I don't care for is the dual thumb studs. I know the makers use the dual stud to accomodate lefties, but I don't need it and would rather have a stud that has a screw and can just be flipped for lefties. The "left" stud of a dual stud sometimes catches my pocket when drawing. So, I might slightly grind down the left stud for smoother pocket draw. This is not a huge thing. But, little details I notice.

At least the tweeks I would make "can" be done. Many knives just can't be modified to be nearly as good as the SERE 2000.

Other great folders:

Benchmade - McHenry & Williams - I would remove the thumb ramp.

Benchmade - Rukus - I have made modifications to streamline the handle and reduce size

Lone Wolf - Tighe - AWESOME knife. Just needed to improve access to the thumb stud and liner lock release a little. I also added dual Teflon washers for slick movement.

Boker / Brend - Classic

Kershaw - Ken Onion - Leek - Great smaller knife


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I have a bunch of others that I have modified to improve, but those above are some of my favorites and quality knives.

I recently put a lot of time completely customizing a CRKT Crawford Point Guard I had given to a buddy a couple of years ago. I didn't like it at the time because I didn't like the thumb disc and the LAWKS lock and some other issues.

He liked it, but it needed some work. So, he asked for some help. I told him I was going to get rid of the junk I didn't like and make the knife how I would want it. I think I have improved the knife a LOT. I still don't care for the thumb disc, but I have made it better. I got rid of the LAWKS junk and replaced it with dual Teflon washers.
With some modest reshaping of the handle and grinding at the thumb ramp was, the handle is very nice now. The Blade shape was already a good design.
It took some work and the task isn't for everybody, but I find it cool that I can turn a decent $35 knife into a knife that competes with much higher end and more expensive knives. The blade steel isn't my favorite. I prefer S30V, VG-10, BG-42 and some others. But, it works and is still a good knife for the money. But, it took some work to make it worthy IMO.

I could say the same for many other knives I guess....

...... Now if only I could buy INFI, SR-101 and SR-77 heat-treated blanks...... and SAVE a BUNCH of money with INFI and SR-101 and make my concepts - since that might be the only way to get what I want at a decent price....

.

I just snapped a pic of some of my 4" folders. I have 2 Manix, 2 CS Voyagers, and 2 RAT Model 1's, but only pictured one of each.



The Manix is king. I really like the CS Recon 1. Although I don't like liner locks, the Model 1 and CRKT are both nice knives. My other CS Voyager has been abused pretty hard and held up very well. The Byrd is a great knife for the money - very very sharp. I like the Endura - although I haven't carried it much. The lockup is best on the Manix (heavy lockback) and the CS Recon1 (Axis lock variant). The G10 grips on the Recon1 are my favorite, followed by the G10 grips on the Manix (Recon are more course) - least favorite handle is the aluminum on the CRKT. Blade shape on my Manix (plain edge, not pictured) is my favorite, followed by the RAT Model 1 - they're also the only two that are full height flat grind. I like the hilt on the CRKT for quick open better than the wave on the Endura. The Manix and CRKT (M16-14SFA) are both American made - the rest are Asian (japan/taiwan).

nice, dice. get a leek. maybe we should get a zt0302 each.

Thanks Mag. I've been doing some heavy editing on the text under that picture - might reread that since it was so sloppy before!

Did you get your Model 1's yet? I just got one more from Cumberland - thought I overpaid for it - but it just got here and I realized that is a 1st Production Run like my other one, not one of the new "ripped off" Model 1's that are causing all the controversy.

Those ZT's are expensive!

I'm gonna wait for the new USA Model 1 from RAT - it'll be a frame lock I guess...

Nevermind - I SEE your Model 1 in the above pix! Is it a 1st Production Run?

You need a Lava - its my favorite EDC for the past month or so. Probably will be for a long time - its great.

how do you know if it's first run?

It says "First Production Run" on the side of it.

Same knife.

The first production runs were done first, obviously - then a second run was done and is plain (no markings) blade, then Jeff/Mike decided to discontinue the model - then Ontario ordered another run anyways, and all heck broke loose.

I ended up with 2 "First Runs" - both just by chance - the lockup is better on the satin, and the tang is more angled on that one as well. I'm gonna use the black one.

i don't see that written anywhere on mine. looks like you've got all the luck.

as for the lava, i had my fill of broad stubby clb's with the subcom, whixh i also prefer for the slim frn framelock. i rarely find myself wanting to change things on spydercos, but i'm not thrlled with the stainless handles. adding the etch was a great idea. think i might add a little skateboard taped to the navi2.

I like the stainless on the lava - it really shows marks easily and has that nice broken in and used look (which it is). I wouldn't like them on most of my other Spydies, though.

i want one of these: