honeybear said its pretty

Sweet! The Ratweiler is an awesome blade, I miss mine. I have been wanting to snag on of those ASH1's also. That one is awesome. Great color combo. Thanks for the pics!

<img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

Thanks guys, it is growing on me, it's not as much not liking it as much as it is not was I had pictured in my mind when I opened the box, she is a tank of a knife. Thanks for the input...

I like the color of the ASH1. I wouldn't have any problem with it.

Get yourself a nice sheath and you're good to go!

Bear with me as it is my (sometimes bad) nature to give my very honest opinion. Especially when asked for it.

I like tan handles. If the tan is right, it is probably my favorite handle color. But, I tend to prefer them darker. Yours look pretty light - almost orange. Maybe it is the lighting?
I am honestly not fond of silver or gray coated blades. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" /> Those are probably my least two favorite colors. ...... Except for camo and similar FREAKIN' ugly multi tone colors. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" /> But, this is coming from someone who REALLY dislikes any coated blade.... so for whatever my comments are worth.

To me, silver and gray coatings just look like puke versions of what the blade should look like: satin finished or satin with a nice patina.

Black, green and tan are all better "coated colors" to me - but, I don't like those colors either... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" />

For whatever reason, the green blades I have received have had a smoother coating. I prefer the smooth coating over the crinkle coating. But, green is the only smooth coating I have personally had. So, that is probably my main reason for liking green. I know some of the old Busse blades had smooth black coatings. But, not for years.

But, here is the catch with tan handles: Tan "coated" blade seems to be the best "coated" color option to me with tan handles...... - Yet, as much as I like tan with tan more than tan handles with any other "color", I don't really like that combination either.

The "BEST" (IMO) "Finish" option with tan handles is not "silver" goopy paint or any other goopy paint. It is SATIN natural silver.

So, here is the good news: You have a nice handle color option. I am sure with some use and maybe with some mineral oil, the handle will darken.



So, my suggestion:

Go use and beat the snot out of that ugly silver finish so you will welcome the thought of stripping that ugliness off the nice looking satin blade underneath.
Then strip it to get to the only decent finish option. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

Unfortunately, with those busy shaped scales, it is probably best to remove the scales to strip and refinish the knife properly. One of the hassles of buying Busse. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif" alt="" />

But, once stripped, sanded and buffed a little, then darken that tan handle a little, you will have about as nice a looking ASH1 as you could have. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

..... well.... Short of Custom Shop smooth finished linen Tiger Hide anyway.
This TigerHide is gorgeous! (all pics borrowed):













I don't even mind the tan coating too much with those scales.
But, Busse wants to charge a few hundred more to provide a $10 - $20 more expensive micarta with a decent buffed finish. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" />

For the record, not all TigerHide scales look decent. Most have been released with the typical unbuffed fuzzy finish and still look like doo.
These TigerHide scales look like doo (IMO) (*But, otherwise, a nicely composed picture <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />):



Comparison pic of poorly finished factory TigerHide next to slightly sanded and oiled TigerHide (would look even better if properly buffed! A properly buffed finish would give it a smoother satin finish and not so shiny and greasy look.):




I may like "properly" finished TigerHide, but Tan micarta is and "can be" very nice as well.
"Tan" micarta is also called Natural Canvas micarta by some makers. The colors can vary in tan micarta from light to darker colors and the type of canvas used can vary and also change the look and color.
Here are a few examples of what nicely finish tan micarta "can" look like:






Since Busse doesn't properly finish micarta (IMO), if you want it to look decent, you might just have to spend some time buffing it with some 0000 steel wool and some various rubbing compounds to get the finish decent and color deeper. Most knife-makers don't recommend using a power buffer on knives as the high speed buffers are notoriously the most dangerous tools in the knife shop and have a long history of doing serious body damage by catching and throwing knives - very fast and very hard. So, probably best to use patience and buff the scales by hand. I could write a few pages of what steps I would take to finish it properly. Unfortunately, finishing a coated knife with poorly finished / highly contoured scales already attached to the knife takes a lot of time and effort to get finished properly. The best results would be achieved by removing the scales and reattaching them later after mostly "finishing" the finish work. Then do a little touch up to fit the scales and tang.
This work could been done at the factory in the correct sequence on their machinery at a very reasonable speed and time frame - way easier and faster than you/we can do ourselves.
Busse's INFI may be the greatest knife steel we know of on this planet, but considering the prices, I would still GREATLY appreciate more effort put into finish quality of their knives.
For my part, I am having a VERY hard time justifying paying for INFI at very high INFI prices to get a knife that I feel I need to put MANY hours of work into to make worthy. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />
Paying HIGH dollars for an extensive "project" knife is just getting silly to me.

Sadly, there are a handful of Busse knives I would really like to have. But, I doubt it based on current prices and finish work I feel needs to be done.


Sorry if my opinion sounds harsh (or if some of my frustrations might be showing), but that is my "honest" opinion. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" />


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By the way, nice grab on that classic Ratweiler. That was back when Busse justified putting some decent effort into quality finishes on some of the knife scales. I was unfortunate to order a Ratweiler when they announced they where making a final run of that model. UNFORTUNATELY, they didn't bother to tell anyone they would be GREATLY reducing the finish quality of the scales. I was not happy to receive scales that looked "Butt-ugly" like this:



After seeing months of great pictures of nice looking scales like yours and like this:

[img]http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j183/DWRW/SwampRat-Ratweilerscalesclseearlier.jpg[/img]


I was honestly quite disappointed in how the final run of butt-ugly Ratweilers were dumped on unsuspecting buyers.

I discussed it with Eric. I do hold Eric in high regard, but the best he could offer was for me to send it back if I didn't want it. Eric doesn't really seem to have any say-so in how things are done. I just sold it for my cost and was done with it. I love my Chopweiler. I personally like the new design more than the older one. It just fits my hand better without the ramp on top and without the index finger notch, but I would not have purchased the newer Chopweiler with those cheesy looking poorly finished micarta scales. G10 at least has a little nicer finish quality. But, I had to pay a $20.00 premium over an already pricy Chopweiler to add G10 and the G10 is still very square, not as nicely contoured and not as nice as the original Ratweiler's micarta scales like yours. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />



One of the reasons I like Res-C is that cheap Res-C costs a LOT less than Busse charges for micarta, is still comfortable and looks nicer than poorly finished micarta. I like Res-C for choppers. But, I honestly prefer micarta over Res-C for small to mid-sized knives (although I like my two mudder grip knives!).
The typical up-charge from Res-C to micarta (older Swamp Rat Res-C to Swamp Rat micarta and now Scrap Yard to Swamp Rat) is about $50 - $60 for comparable sized knives. That is a significant price jump for decent finished micarta (keep in mind Res-C has a cost), let alone poorly finished micarta.



Maybe someday the finish quality of Busse and kin micarta will be decent. Clearly, Busse knows how.



I should say this again:
Sorry if my opinion sounds harsh (or if some of my frustrations might be showing), but that is my "honest" opinion. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" />

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Ok Kraz, just how does one remove and re-install the BCS scales?

You have to drill out the end of flared tubes to remove the scales. To install requires new tubes and a hydraulic press. Alternatively you could use Chicago screws or somethimg similar to reattach and have that old school Busse look. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Also you can send your knife to Busse and they will reattach the scales for a small fee. Call/email Garth and he can tell you what it costs.

Very nice Bullets. I especially like the Ratweiler which has always been one of my favorite Swamp Rats.

Removing and installing flared rivets with a vice:


Removing and installing flared rivets


Hollow Tube Fasteners discussion



Some vendors who carry hollow tubing for knives:


TexasKnife.com

alphaknifesupply - I don't see tubing listed on this site right now except under Titanium rod and tubing. You don't want "rod". You want tubing if you want to flare it and make it look like factory. You can use rod and epoxy the scales, but the factory scales have counter-sink holes and would look funny with rod type pins.

knifeandgun.com


I am not sure exactly what type of steel or wall thickness Busse uses for rivets. I doubt they will tell you, but it might be worth asking Dan. Or Ban on Bladeforums.

The OD is 0.25"

Idahoskunk posted that you need to use a lathe to cut the tubing and keep the ends perfectly flat and square or they will often split. I would think sanding on a disk sander would possibly help keep square (???). I would try flarying a couple tubes on a scrap/sample piece of scrap wood to test and practice.


If you go this route, please post progress and pics.

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Great looking blades there SB. Those are 2 beastly knives.

Those knives are enough to make me envious!! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

silverbullets
i really like your haul. two of the nicest blades i have ever seen