Hi everyone

I'm trying to give the DM a good edge on the Lansky, but I have the following issue due to the flat grind of the blade:

I've just used duct tape on the 2 clamps where they clamp down on the blade and that assists somewhat in keeping the blade from twisting, but I thought someone here might have a better idea...

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Gideon

the DMDC you mean right???
yeah...
I just discovered something truly amazing...
wet and dry sandpaper...
freaking amzing!
it's so different than say... emery paper.
you just lightly strop the knife (if you go to hard it really comes out crappy) on it and I honestly think you only need maybe 1 or 2 grits and a leather strop...

sorry for hijacking, but it is a method you might want to try, since most scrapyards have a convex edge.

MAYBE you could like... (keep in mind I do not own a lnasky so... this is just a thought) put something in the extra space like a wedge in there to keep it from doing that... I'd think it would work if you could find the right thing.
(I would think some folded cardboard would do)
<img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

Nice illustrations Gideon, most folks would waste a lot of time trying to type an explaination (I'd be one of them).

My Lansky is a little old, but it has a small lip near the tip of each jaw that works well for me. It's a bit fiddley getting the blade in there, but that's how I sharpened my YKCG and it worked great. Perhaps yours doesn't have that though.

IIRC, the angle I used was 30 degrees.

maybe you could try to clamp on to some flats of the blade??
maybe like near the ricasso???
idk.
just a thought...

Gideon, just carefully file a pair of grooves across the clamps (parallel to the small blade profiles Apprentice mentioned) to hold on to the spine edges.. Did that on mine and it works just fine! I would recommend you put a bit of Duck tape over the filed out section to protect the black finish though..

Youll have to try to picture this. I use a lansky and know exactly what you mean. What I did to solve it was get longer screws for it Then you can open the jaws at the guage hole end. And slightly close the jaws at the clamp end. Thus fitting any full flat grind perfectly. I got one to fit my CG ASH1 exactly. It will take a little adjusting to get it just right, so apply some blue painters tape to the spine to avoid scratches.----Robert

I mounted the knife right at the tip of the clamps where theyre indented. The knife will pop out easier and it's more prone to scratching the finish if you dont put some tape on, but it kept it nice and straight.

I'm going to try the edges that have indents for the DM, but I think the ASH-1 will not be held by that small edge. I'll see when it arrives. However, I think the extra grooves Paul mention will work nicely for the bigger blade.

I did sharpen it by clamping it to the ricasso (actually, half on and half off to get it closer to the tip, with the plunge line right in the center of the clamp), but then the angle changes quite a bit by the time you get to the point. In fact, it now has an interesting edge on it because of that approach. I actually like it. It's also hair shaving sharp. The thing is it took 2 hours to get the edge right at the tip. The angle from the sweep forward to the tip is prolly about 20 degrees and closer to the choil 30 degrees. I would however not like to do this to the ASH, so therefore the request for advice - I want the edge even on the big knife.

Robert, the idea to get a longer screw will also work - tried it briefly, but I couldn't get the angle quite right and the clamp kept slipping towards the edge. Duct tape will solve that, I agree.

Oh well, lots of good advice and I'm off to test it.

Thanks again,
Gideon

I had a hell of a time with the Lansky on my YKLE. What I did was just try to get it even.

I use the gatco system and it has notches cut out on the very front parts of the clamp jaws so that you wouldn't have this problem. I dont know if the lansky system has this but if not I would suggest putting some kind of soft rubber on the front of the jaws so that it will bite into the spine of the knife rather than sliding out.

I use a longer screw in in rear hole of the of the clamp and can get it to run parallel with the blade.

I have found that the thick coating on SYKW blades makes using that first notch in the Lansky difficult. The knife is never really securely clamped. Never tried anything as thin as the YKCG, though.