Hi All,

Somewhere I read a post regarding the benefits of soaking a clean blade of high-carbon steel in vinegar in order to produce some sort of a patina that was supposed to protect against corrosion. Could someone provide either directions to the previously discussed subject or just information on how this method works, what type of vinegar to use, what are the benefits and what are the disadvantages?

Thanks

Here's a good link.

http://knifeforums.com/forums/showtopic.php?tid/816355/fromsearch/1/hl/vinegar/tp/1/

Whichever method you use be sure and get your blade thoroughly cleaned before you begin. I don't know how big of a knife you are working with, but one very simple way to do it is to stick the knife into a potato and leave it there overnight. The next morning take it out and wash it off with soap and water, and apply a thin coat of oil and you're good to go. Another easy way to go is to get you a bunch of onions out and start slicing them up. You could also use lemons, oranges, limes, strawberries, etc.. I have had good luck coating the blade with mustard and letting it set for anywhere from 2-5 hours depending on how dark I wanted the blade, and then wash it off and look at it. If you want it darker, then repeat the process.

Something else you might want to consider is bluing the blade. Just like on your firearms, and it is very inexpensive and easy to do. You can make it dull and non-reflective, bright and glossy, or anywhere in between.It is easy to touch up as it wears, but it is not going to be extremely durable unless you have it hot-blued.

I don't think there are any benefits to a patina with anytype of high carbon steel knife. It doesn't really do much besides darken the steel.

It doesn't really do much as in it's not a protective coating under use. CnD did a patina on his Custom Ranger (a very good one BTW) and it still rusted during use. 5160 is a rust magnet steel but SR-101 should be even more (higher carbon content).

As far a durability, it is actually quite durable. CnD did a lot of chopping that day (mainly cedar and pine) and the patina was unaffected, granted there were lots of rust spots on the knife.

Then again... we were in a rain forest and you can probably guess the cause of all that rusting. However, I've had my RMD in a moist environment for a week (slightly wet sheath from a wet trip into the forest) and had very little rust on the exposed edge (this was before the mirror polishing of HD, mind you).

If you plan on using a patina-ed blade, don't. It won't protect against corrosion that well. A normal crinkle coat is still much better. I'm not really sure about hot-bluing but I've seen well done blued knives have their coating very easily worn off after some good use (chopping wood).

S7 has some chromium and other alloys that reduce it's susceptibility to rust.
A first rate bluing like the kind the 19th century custom rifles had is a good
rust preventative. So is a good polish. If you have both and exercise a little care you are fine. For the tropics you could have your pistol nickel finished.

Bead blasting makes steel more susceptible to rust so a bluing or patina over that won't do much good.

If bluing wears off you can simply reapply and it will blend right in.

I have seen an indian SMLE bayonet and a Parker Hale rifle that have incredible bluing jobs. The indian bayo is really poorly made though. Strange it has such a great finish.

A Parker Hale custom #4 is what you would get if you gave Ban a No4 Enfield and a blank cheque.

hmm, yeah I guess the main advantage for me was that I didn't have to deal with a satin finish getting dirty. Once you put a patina on it, its ALREADY dirty, so you don't have to agonize of that one little rust spot that seems to be staring you in the eye. Scratches also aren't all that noticeable on a patina blade

I did some vinegar patinas recently, just for fun.




I just soaked them in vinegar for an hour or so.

The Rangers and Rats seem to take it better. The patina sure shows off the great
sharpening jobs you have done Vic.