Nice work on the Machete, Mag. Try using some small files to enlarge your handle holes. That's what I usually do. You can usually get a whole set a Harbor Freight pretty cheep. Takes a little time to file the holes out, but since there going to be covered anyway, you don't have to worry about them being totally even.

I really like the Blade you made too!! Steel probably is a little questionable though. One suggestion, If you want to make a blade, replacement lawn mower blades are pretty cheap, and that's pretty decent knife Blade steel. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> I've done that before, worked out pretty good.




Nice Forge SP, I've been planning on building a forge forever... still haven't gotten around to it though. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/doh.gif" alt="" />

okay, twenty minutes on in total or twenty minutes after it's glowing?

useless tip from watching mythbusters

they quenched hammers in used motor oil to add carbon thus making them harder or more brittle i forgot (beware the flaming motor oil)

Very cool, I really like the knife you made. Something I really gotta try.

Hey Mag, Excellent job on the machete and knife

Might I suggest using a bit of foam for a handle mold on the machete. Shape it and then use the the plasti-dip?

You could make a pretty sweet shaped handle. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

I've seen cord wraps plasti diped.
I would think that would give it some cushion, as well as some more grip.
<img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

Awhile back i was looking at some " how to make a forge " instructions and noticed a lot of people use air mattress pumps as a way to keep there coals hot.

I've posted some threads on the topic before. Do a search and you'll find 'em.

20 min at 1800F. You can pull it out sooner or leave it in longer. The longer you leave it in, the more sanding you'll have to do to get back to metal. The sooner you pull it out the less uniform the austenite (if this matters to you).

The advantage of having a temperature-controlled forge is the control of oxygen. In a temp controlled forge you can wrap the blade with a steel foil and basically eliminate the O2 near the blade. I suppose that you could do this with no temperature control, but having visibility of the blade color is key without having some type of temperature readout on the blade.

Crucible Steel has a website that has some basic numbers for heat treating their metals.

Once quenched, you'll want to temper the blade. Right out of the quench bath, the steel is probably going to be very brittle. Let it cool until it's very warm to the touch, but cool enough to touch it and immediately put in in an kitchen oven (if you used motor oil, make sure all the oil is off the blade before putting t in the oven - courtesy of my wife).

I use 400F for A2 steel. I used 375 for the hacksaw blade since I didn't know what steel it was. I usually perform two cycles of an hour each and let it cool to room temperature after the first heat cycle before sticking it back in for the second. This tempering will give the blade "toughness" without sacrificing too much hardness. Again, tempering temperature is another variable that will (adversely or otherwise) affect the finished product.

you gonna sell that mini ratweiler?

sell? first knife? it would go on the mantle if i had one.

i just spent the evening hardening this knife. jessica helped. the fire pit got it glowing red hot without forced air, those coals normally glow pretty bright orange. i left it in there about 25 minutes then quenched in ice water. it was pretty easy. never tempered it, but i don't mind if it's brittle. i'm doing this again for sure, i'll get it right next time.

thanks for all the advice, snotpig. way more help than the knifemakers' forum.