Well, I think I thinned the edge too much on my DMDC as when I was batoning a log, I got a couple of chips closer to the tip (where I had gotten a bit more daring with keeping a low angle)



This pic hopefully shows the overall way the egde is shaped (convex, but with a longer radius near the tip)



I know it will sharpen out, but just wanted to share for those starting out sharpening and want them to learn from my mistake. Any tips on how to gauge how thin you can go on an edge?

Meanwhile, while waiting for the SOD to get here, I decided to splurge <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />



There are a couple of scuffs in the blade from the previous owner putting it in a kydex sheath, but I can live with that (I might even beat the snot out of it - I don't ever plan on selling it).



And here she is with her thinner sister...



I really need to get some kind of light setup and a better camera <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

Edited as the pics weren't showing up...

The first time you thin down your edge, there's always a higher chance of chips and rolls due to the thin edge, but as you sharpen the knife over time, the edge gets more obtuse and stronger.

I'm not a big fan of G-10 for a user, but that's a beauty.

Nice ASH-1s.

Polarbare,

What I do when sharpening and reprofiling a knife like the DMDC is just try to remember to leave it a little more obtuse behind the cutting edge towards the last inch or so of the blade. This seems to give the best overall results for me.

Really nice blades there p/b!!! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

well, those don't look much like chips too me.
But things like that do happen, and it's no big deal.

Thanks for the tips and compliments. The chips are very small, so hopefully I won't mess up the curve near the tip when sharpening them out. I actually have a belt sander, but am having a hard time finding some cheap knives to practice on that aren't stainless.

Here you go, http://www.bjsknives.com/ontario/ , buy yourself some of these Old Hickory knives. They are made of good ole' 1095 carbon steel with hardwood handles right here in the USA, and they are cheap. The best thing about them is that they are actually good knives, so once you get through practicing on them your wife will love the wicked sharp kitchen knives she now has. All this and they won't cost you much more(if any) than flea market knives.

There are many different places that sell the Old Hickory knives, so look around, but they are very affordable just about everywhere.

Nice Blades! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

I think Tolly's got a pretty good idea there. Wally World usually has Old Hickory kitchen knives. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Nice new toys there polarbare!

My vote is to use that ASH-1! The satin finished ones make great users. My favorite blade in that size is currently the ashle. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

Well, that doesn't look bad to me - should be able to fix those pretty smartly. There is a lot of back and forth on what constitutes a too thin edge. I guess it depends on what you plan to do with the knife as well as the quility of the steel. If you baton regularly a thicker edge would make sense. Personally I prefer a thinner edge, and with convex you can go thinner to some extent due to there being more steel behind the edge, so to speak.

Having said that, I will only baton as a last resort. I have mostly been able to make fires and build shelters with very little need for batoning.

Some argue that a thinner edge cuts better and therfore needs less force which again relates to less stress on the steel etc, etc. The problem is that modern knives get put through some tough tasks that strictly speaking they are not designed for. After all, a knife is suppose to cut as well as is possible.

As a rough guide, the following angles are most popular for the following applications (this is just a rough guide):

around 15 degrees - fine cutting
around 25 degrees - general use
around 35 degrees - chopping

But, I have to add that I have no idea what the edge on my ASH and DMDC is. I know 2 things - it's convex and it's kinda thin. The main reason for this is that Infi and SR77 are tough and they sharpen easily.