Well I agree...the Randall knives in 44OA Stainless command a higher premium only because they are user friendly for collectors keeping them in draws...the 01 blades however make for much better edges and "users" as the edge lasts longer and is easier to sharpen. However I have only owned two Randalls...one in each steel...I would still have the O1 knife but it came with a "dink" in the side of the blade...don't know how...so it got sent back....the other I sold...I must check up on the O1...Randall are sadly "very long" on waiting lists...

My Woodlore though is also O1 and marks from food prep or sap are easy removed with the slurry from a Nagura stone or a little bit of 800 grit paper...as to rust...looked after and used ...it does'nt get rusty...if stored it gets covered in Vasaline Jelly...which is none toxic and keeps out oxidation problems.

Rust happens. My new KSF custom bowie of 50-100B already has some minor rust spots. I stored it in its sheath without applying my usual Tuf Cloth protectant. But it sure cuts well. For those who just can't stand stains or minor rust spots, I suggest going with stainless steel. 420J2 knives make great safe queens and display knives, and they are cheap. For those of us who actually use our knives, a little surface rust or discoloration just isn't a big deal.

I suspect that a great many people who buy high end knives don't actually use them for anything, and thus, they sit in their sheaths for years at a time in a drawer somewhere. The coatings help there. Plus it may simply be a status symbol, as many high end knife makers coat their blades. Some of them are for "tactical" reasons which I won't bother to sneer at here. And finally, as in Scrapyard's case, the coating may simply be to hide imperfections in the steel as-forged.

All of which reasons are aimed at the presentability of the knife and not its field performance. I've had my Dogfather get a little bit of rust started after whacking through brush for a while and then putting it away for a day or two. When I pulled it out again, it was a matter of "Oh, hey, rust" and wipe the blade on my pant leg. No more rust. Move on.

Finally, if people are really freaked out about the potential of their knives rusting, try treating them with some spray-on furniture wax. Problem solved (for a while).

I have to agree with him as far as functionality: rust is not an issue on carbon steel tools under normal, active use conditions. Rust only becomes a significant problem when it goes unnoticed for significant lengths of time. Otherwise it just wipes off casually.

Rust is rarely a problem for me. I try to keep blades clean and dry and treated. If rust does develop, depending on the type of blade and value, I deal with it accordingly. I have cheaper users like Machete's that I don't really even worry about, some good use and a quick cleaning will keep most of the rust in check. With a higher quality blade I remove the rust and re-treat with a protectant. Contrary to the practices of some, I store my knives in their sheaths and rarely experience any issues due to that.

As far as why they coat the blades... it's cheaper than polishing and protects the steel a little better when not in use. Rust isn't much of a problem on a user blade, but it's hard to sell a carbon steel blade if it starts to rust before it's sold or used. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

RW,
What kind of protectant do you use?

Mostly Tuf-Cloth these days.

Corrosion X for me. In the salt air environment where I live , it is the best I have found.

The reason I was attracted to SY in the first place was " performance" . I also much like Bruce will end up sticking a few knives back to merely " collect" - " admire" or maybe use for trade. I like the thought that they are " useful" . I am not really attracted to much that is just " nice looking" . For me this is kind of a hollow feeling. On the other hand many folks enjoy collecting pretty things and I certainly won't step on that. Thanks for the tips on what to use to protect blades. I was merely using some wax I had around and seemed to work decent. I am quite sure your suggestions are much better-Thank You

I'm like you Jeff; I'll store my blades in their sheaths as well. However, since I go on tour from 6 to 9 months at a time, I tend to take a little more precaution. My knives are stored in a converted gun cabinet, with a dehumidifier rod installed, to prevent any possible rusting from ocurring while I'm gone.

My cheapies and users aren't so big a deal if they show a little rust, so long as I'm around to check on them from time to time. When I'm gone for more than a month, I like to have the above mentioned setup going, so I don't come back to a huge job of cleaning all my knives. If they all showed rust signs, the cleaning would take me a straight week at least... I own that many knives and axes! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />

Full on rusting is a different thing to a little spotting and tarnishing.It is quite hard for a knife to become totally rusty if you take just a little care.Even though I use mine in all weathers the most I get is a little spotting with rust and this either rubs off when I oil them or comes off the next time I use them for battoning !
I actually like to see a few spots of rust first appear as the knife is then tainted and I don't worry about using it ! To me it's the same as with my cars, I hate it when they are all pristine and new because I'm always washing them and worrying about where I park them. Once they have their first supermarket cart scratch it's great and all that worry is taken off your shoulders !!!!

Well for me I got a RMD from HD who said he often picked up spares of the "good" knives he liked...simple and obvious it appealed to me given the "limited" runs done on Bussekin knives...so I intend to have replacement "users" for each size of knife I use and would therefore be as averse to rust as Bruce. Heavy Wax...Vasaline Jelly...all block out air and work for me. I have got some Tuff Cloths but can never tell when they are fully dried out and maybe unable to work....I use Corrosion X on my rifles...brilliant stuff...but for knives stored...just like weapons...I like a thick wax/jelly...it does'nt dry out.

My rifle barrels when I screw them off get the same treatment with Bicycle Chain lube...a sticky jelly lube which gets sprayed inside the barrel...then on the outside as well...then they go into cling film wrapped layers...none have rusted.

I usually get 700-900 rounds out of a barrel at the top end of competition use in F Class. When this figure is reached I store them and when the barrels on my tactical rifles shoot out they go on the tactical rifles...and some barrels have been stored for 5 years. It is easy to store and avoid rust...but not if you want immediate access to whatever you store...although it takes only seconds to unwrap and rub down one of my stored knives...which get the same treatment as the barrels.