Convexed my SOG Tech Bowie, its like a laser when i'm cutting fuzzsticks. Convexed my Becker BK7, sharp enough to cut me finger. Does'nt cut so well. (fuzzsticks). convexed my Becker/Kabar BK2. Does'nt cut so well. Convexed my kabar khukuri, that got dull FAST.

The knives that cut well i left. The ones that did'nt i returned the edge to a scandi style grind. Now they cut like lasers.

YMMV <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />

I am still on the fence with my convexed SOD....... It chops ok but i really would prefr it to cut fuzzies better

How do you make your scandi grinds?

by hand, on a 100 grit green silicon stone. Many many many hours, and much beer. I then progress to finer grits stones.

still no grinder/belt sander

scandi grind on a SOD?

you mean just a nice flat ground edge?

I'm sure it would cut better.

you would sacrafice some durability...
I would stay convex on a heavy duty knife like that.
maybe just thin the convex edge some?

i thought i was the last not to join the convex revolution.i personally dont really like them.i dont dislike like them either.i just think they're a little over hyped.

wanna hear something crazy???

i even did away with the convex edge on my bark river bravo-1.blasphemy,i know.

as far as scandi grinds???....i'm not good at sharpening those so i stay away from them.

Convexes aren't meant to be the sharpest, but it has a good balance between strength and sharpness. A proper scandi grind should always be sharper, but it isn't meant for heavier task.

I completely agree, gonna keep one of these triangle sharpeners in my tool bag. Lessons learned from stropping include just using the ceramic for the fine, not applying pressure to the knife sharpening.

The whole convexing experience has been great though - another tool in the box!

I am not very good at sharpening knives but here are my thoughts. I leave my busse knives with the same type of grind they come with but I do sharpen them. I think convex like a falkniven is great also. my bark river had a very thin convex that I damaged. to thin on the convex edge defeats the purpose. the edge is more fragile but still not as good at cutting ad the scandi grind on my mora blades.
for super sharp blades used for slicing and fuzz sticks I think moras are unsurpassed but I always match them with a busse for strength.

Had to move my truck into the garage because of hail warning...
Kind of doing some spring cleaning so I thouhgt I'd strop my mocassin ranger.

I realized I've been associating concave with stropping/or what I consider reverse sharpening. I'm used to using a stone on to ceramic, trying to shave/no pressure, and going from choil to tip, and focusing on doing repetetive strokes exactly the same listening for the sound the edge makes when it's as sharp as it will get with whatever coarseness I'm using. Today I used my strop on the "mr" while watching some t.v. using the same technique above just reversed (tip to choil spine first up the strop) and found the sweet spot being where I could feel the flat of the edge developing surface tension from where it was worn to the strop - to shallow/steep an angle and there was a definite difference. So I guess I'm semi concaving my edges - I try to use the least amount of pressure on my belt sander even if it barely shows and requires multiple passes. I agree with the all the above about making the edge too thin being bad for choppers. Just wanted to point out a possible difference in sharpening techniques, btw the "mr" is razor sharp, too bad it's being retired for the EH3 - now to make strop on 2 inch dowel to sharpen it.

+1 <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />