Mike,

Sorry to just get back to you. I have actually not been to my computer for a couple of days. Trying to earn a bit of money when I can these days.

I received your PM, but decided to go ahead and post my reply here as well to help others who are new here.

First, I would like to point out & remind people about the search function/feature of this forum and other forums.

*** Just remember to adjust the search dates with THIS forum or you will only search the last week. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" /> - If you want to search the entire history of this forum, it only goes back about 2.5 years to Sept. 8, 2006. So, you can put in 3-5 "YEARS" remember to change weeks to Years. The search feature will only allow 250 hits chronologically from most recent. So, if you hits stop at 15 months out, you can do a second search from 15 months to 3 years, and so on.

There is also a long history of GREAT posts on the Swamp Rat - Rat Chat Forum . If you are a member on that forum, the search feature works very well there too.

Bladeforums and Knifeforums have search options, but you have to be a "Paying" member to search on those forums. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" /> However, if you use the Google or Yahoo search engines, you can go to "Advanced Search" and key in specific "site" or "Domain" such as: bladeforums.com

Aside from that, yeah... I don't lik coatings. I stip ALL my users and WISH they all came satin at reasonable prices. I am glad most of Scrap Yard knives have a satin option with somewhat reasonable up-charge pricing. Unfortunately, the SS4 wasn't one of those.

Keep an eye out on the S5LE. It "Might" be INFI and in satin (??????) <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crossfingers.gif" alt="" /> But, I am HOPING <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crossfingers.gif" alt="" /> for closer to $169 for satin INFI and not $200 like "some" keep suggesting. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/doh.gif" alt="" />

Anyway, I did strip my SS4.




















With Bog Dog:




With MPLE:



With Howling Rat 2nd Gen (Stripped):


With Stripped DMCG:
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j183/DWRW/ScrapYard-DumpsterMuttstrippedwi-1.jpg


With HCLE 4.0 LE



With HCLE 3.5 LE, 4.0 LE, and MPLE:

[img]http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j183/DWRW/ScrapYard-SS4strippedwithSwampRatHa.jpg[/img]


With HRLM (Stripped and modified!)

[img]http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j183/DWRW/SwampRat-HRLMstrippedmodifiedwit-2.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j183/DWRW/SwampRat-HRLMstrippedmodifiedwit-3.jpg[/img]


With Fallkniven F1 micarta:
[img]http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j183/DWRW/ScrapYard-SS4wFallknivenF1.jpg[/img]


I could write for a LONG time about stripping knives, but I already have written a bunch. So, rather than spend a couple of hours typing, I will attach a few links that I hope you find helpful.

I will mention a few things though: Stripping the actual "coating" is VERY easy if you use a chemical stripper. Most any hardware or paint store should have a suitable product. I usually see the epoxy/paint strippers in Quart sized metal cans (like paint thinner cans). 1 Quart will strip MANY knives if you just brush it on. I use a little 1" art brush. I just rinse it and re-use the brush. It lasts.

I have seen some people pour a BUNCH of the chemical into a pan and soak their knives to strip. Soaking is over-kill. I put on a thick layer of about 1/16" inch (I use the gel type) and let the chemical soak for about 5-10 minutes. You WILL see the coating bubble up. I have been able to remove the coating in almost one entire single sheet of gunk. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" /> But, I often just use a putty knife and lightly scrape off the peeling goop. It comes off VERY easy. I could typically knock it off with my fingers, but I try not to touch the chemicals too much and I just throw the goop in an outside trash can to let the chemical vapors evaporate.

**** The vapors don't seem terribly strong with the gel type, but rest assured those are NOT chemical fumes you want to breath. Do this outside if possible or at least with VERY good ventalation. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

To answer one of your questions: I was concerned about the harsh chemicals affecting Res-C myself at first, but after many attempts at getting a bit of chemical on the Res-C, I have NEVER seen ANY affects of the chemical on the Res-c. ... or micarta or G-10 for that matter. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

However, if you are not familiar with what is underneath Busse and kin coatings, that is where the ugly / hard work and time comes in.

It depends on the knife, some aren't terrible, but some blade surfaces under the coatings can be horribly pitted from Busse's proprietary heat treatment and full of machine marks.

Getting a pitted surface of INFI, SR-101 or SR-77 to a decent satin finish takes some work.

The ricasso area around the Mudder grips is pretty hard to work around. Notice in my pictures the dimples are still on the ricasso. I have never tried to take the RES-C grips off.

With the standard Res-C, I can run my belt up to the Res-C since the front of the Res-C is straight on the standard Res-C. But, be carefull with a belt sander on the Res-C. A belt sander can and will grind into the Res-C.
The mudders are just too hard to work around when attached, so I just go to the plunge line. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> - But, the stripper easily removes the coating right up to the Res-C. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

Here are some links:

Stripping My Howler - Pics of process

What is the best way to strip crinkle coating.

how does a stripped swamprat knife do


Vic's old stripping Tutorial <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" /> : Tutorial: Stripping & Polishing Pics


Stripping the coating


That should get you started.

If you have any specific questions, feel free to ask. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

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.

I have not used acetone. I have only used the Gel type epoxy/paint stripper. It only takes about 5-10 minutes. Sometimes I have to brush on a few follow up spot treatments and wait another 5-10 minutes. But, the chemical strip process is relatively fast and easy. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" /> ... unfortunately, the sanding isn't so easy.






If sanding on the dimples and machine marks, you will want to start with much more agressive grits than 600 - 800. You will affectively be "PUTTING" the finish on the knife. As opposed to touching up an already finished knife. If working on the dimples, you are working on ROUGHER steel finish than most knife kit blanks. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />

Will you be finishing by hand or with a belt sander?

In either case, you probably want to start with about 150 - 220 grit at least and then work up through the grits to finer and finer finish.

It would take MANY hours and MANY sheets of 600 grit to get through the dimples. Also, the finer grits are more expensive. It would be a waste of LOTS of Time AND MONEY to start with too fine a grit.

The Scotchbrite wheels are a quick and easy solution for many people. Many people fine they give a sufficient finish by themselves. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

Just be carefull with sharp blades and any powered tool - especiall buffing wheels or Scotchbrite wheels that can grab and throw a blade. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" />


.

Good info...

That is incredibly thorough and valuable information for me. Thank you for spending the time on this reply knife guy. And your response was very fast, so no reason whatsoever to apologize. If it took you a week to get back to me, I still would be thankful. I will do what I can on the knife and post my success. I'll bring it to my pop's place as he has a nice beltsander to work finish it off.