okay can I just say, chips of that in my food is something I don't think I want!

Typically, if you follow the use guidelines, they don't chip like that.

You can break the tip (and possibly snap the blade off the handle) if you use a ceramic knife to pry, rather than slice. You can also chip the edge if you cut into bones.

The blade is stable after the chipping...nothing else really chips off, but all the same, blackie is out of the usual service rotation.

If you care for them, they're among the sharpest and easiest to maintain knives there are.

In fact, the white on is so sharp, when you cut cooked meat with it and taste it, the meat actually has a different feel in your mouth compared to meat cut with a steel blade... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif" alt="" />

I wouldn’t recommend them. They are very expense. They do get dull and you can’t sharpen them. I had one a few years ago and was very disappointed that it lost its edge so fast. It also got a chip on the edge and I finally threw it away. BAD INVESTMENT!

Um, you shouldn't have thrown it away.

The major ceramic knife MFG's offer resharpening service for their blades,a s in most instances, the owner can't do it him/herself.

I think Boker charges $19.
Kyocera may do it for free...

Regardless, throwing away an "expensive" knife might have been a bad move.

FWIW, my ceramics still pop hair 8+ years after buying them.

yeah, next time you throw one out, um, throw it in my direction <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Hey Pitbull, just wanted to say thanks for all of your input and information. I really appreciate it.

No problem.

Ceramics aren't for everything, but they do certain things very, very well.

BTW, Kyocera has some high dollar Ceramic Damascus blades that are supposedlyy tougher than the std. ceramics.

Also keep in mind that the black blades are generally stronger than the the white, in terms of resistance to chips and breakage.

Nope! It was toast. The edge had chipped badly enough that the blade would have needed a major grinding to bring it back to any sort of symmetry. I no longer have any interest in knives that I can't sharpen myself.

I'm glad that you have had better luck with yours.

I read about how you need diamond to sharpen them. I have a DMT 10" bench stone*. You think that ought to do the trick? You know, in the year 2020 when it needs touching up?



*just got it and really, really like it. I still do fine tuning on my old school hard arkansas** but for profiling and utility, a DMT may smack your checkbook around a bit, but I'm sure you'll know where your money went.






** no school like the old school - got this hard arkansas from my father over twenty years ago, and have yet to see its equal. Did you know these are nearly mined out? If you want a stone you'll still be using when your grandkids are asking you why your knives are so sharp, now's the time, my friends...

Boker claims (and Kyocera concurs) that the consumer cannot sharpen these on their own.

They say "Industrial diamond wheels" are needed...I dunno. I suppose if you already have a diamond stone, you could try it...if it doesn't work, send it in...

you know I'm gonna try it, right <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Of course....I'd expect nothing less... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />